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Old 04-19-2012, 05:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by George Schweikle View Post
Is this what everybody is talking about? Save Your RV Awning with an RV Awning Travel Lock!
Does anyone have experience with the product?
Been there, done that, got the new awning fabric.

Last year my awning fabric decided to enjoy the windy conditions and unroll. I had strapped the awning arms thinking it would prevent the wind/awning problem. I was wrong, but the arms didn't open. We were very close to our overnight stop and milked it in after some gathering and rolling. Other RVs were stopped along the same stretch gathering up their parts or trying to roll theirs up. Another coach and 18 wheeler stopped and helped us with ours. The RV had one of the locks at your link, and a secure awining. When we did get to the park 10 RVs had gone through the same area at the same time. 7 were damaged (a couple had the arms open and holy cow the damage). The three that weren't had these locks. That sold me.

After a new fabric and new springs on ours I splurged and got one of these locks. We have been through high enough winds, on the awning side, that we stopped. And the awning hung tight.

The factory awning lock is on the front. The rear is free wheeling. This lock is a positive lock on the rear. I have seen some home made locks but for the time $40 was money well spent. Wish I had spent it before.
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Old 04-19-2012, 05:59 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Dunner View Post
What are they made of? Sounds like plastic if you broke one. Also, it's hard to see how it latches. Could you explain. Thx

Edit: just watched a video where it snaps into a grove. Push in to release and pull out to attach. Looked like it had some play and was not real tight.
They are not plastic, the links are removable and as part of the install you will need to remove some. The bracket mounted on the sidewall belong the awning has an adjustable pin as well. Ours is very snug and strong as well. There is a second bracket on top, it is designed for 3 different mount situations. The directions explain it. But it could be sidewall (5th), flat roof (TT) or the curved part (MH - ours) of the roof.

Bob
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:01 AM   #31
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My Carefree manual awning has a solid plastic end cap so there are no holes to insert a rod. I'm reluctant to drill a hole without knowing what's on the other side!
There is nothing to it! You only mark the spot where the hole is to be drilled, use a small drill bit, slightly bigger that the pin and drill only about 1/4 to 3/8" deep, into the end cap.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:24 AM   #32
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There is nothing to it! You only mark the spot where the hole is to be drilled, use a small drill bit, slightly bigger that the pin and drill only about 1/4 to 3/8" deep, into the end cap.
Have you had any trouble with the hole not lining up with the pin every time? One guy told me that sometimes he has to roll it up several times before the pin will go in.
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:34 AM   #33
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If the lock is engaged it the one end, how can it unroll?
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:31 AM   #34
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They are not plastic, the links are removable and as part of the install you will need to remove some. The bracket mounted on the sidewall belong the awning has an adjustable pin as well. Ours is very snug and strong as well. There is a second bracket on top, it is designed for 3 different mount situations. The directions explain it. But it could be sidewall (5th), flat roof (TT) or the curved part (MH - ours) of the roof.
Bob
Ok, what are them made of? Some people call me cheap for making things like this myself. I just like the self satisfaction of making things with the tools and the tinkering experience I have.
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:51 AM   #35
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If the lock is engaged it the one end, how can it unroll?
Dunner,


Heavy winds, or gusts acting underneath the awning tail (the end that is anchored to the side of the RV) overcome the stock locking mechanism allowing the awning to billow and unroll. A positive device of some sort to keep the the awning from unrolling is what is required. Several types are available. I have used the one described in the link in post #19 for several years with no problems.
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:11 AM   #36
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I'd have to see how it locks to make a decision that it can be over-come by wind. I just tried mine and could not get it to un-roll at either end. Almost fell off the ladder pulling on it.

Is there a blow-up diagram for an A&E Dometic awning showing how it latches. Is there a rod that goes to the other end and latches it too?
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Old 04-19-2012, 10:30 AM   #37
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Ok, what are them made of? Some people call me cheap for making things like this myself. I just like the self satisfaction of making things with the tools and the tinkering experience I have.
Mine sure look plastic to me. It's very heavy and strong. I broke the little loop for fastining because I have them installed with enough links removed to make the fit pretty snug. I have to kinda lift the Awning a little bit to get tham latched and I guess that together with a little twist broke the loop for latching. I found with our install the standard Awning Rod just isn't ridgid enough to be an effective tool for latching these things so I put a hook on a 1 X 2 Stick to use.

I did need to buy two for the main awning. It's 21 ft. and the company reccomends two for that length.
Dick
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:31 AM   #38
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Here is my only dilemma:

The one with the toggle appears it needs to line up perfectly every time so the toggle can go into the drilled hole. Also, is this toggle stronger than the hardware that already came on the awning that likewise locks the roller?

The one with the strap requires me to drill through the side of the RV which is something I really don't like doing. It also relies on the strength of the RV wall to hold everything tight.

Just when I think I have purchased every 'must have gadget' on the internet for my RV, something new comes along to keep my wallet open.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:08 PM   #39
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Dunner,

The A&E Dometic awning only locks on one end.
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Old 04-19-2012, 01:18 PM   #40
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I bought a 1/4" x 3' plated steel rod at Lowes and a piece of clear plastic tubing to cover it with. I put a 4" bend in the top to insert into the hole in the end of the awning tube. I will strap the rod to the awning support in two places with straps or flat bungee cords. This seems to me the simplist yet secure method of solving this problem. Does anyone see a problem with this type of fix? If there is something I'm overlooking I want to know it now, not after I've lost an awning! Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:42 PM   #41
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I almost always park with my door to the north, so rarely use my awning. I may just find a semi-permanent way to lock it. I also don't like drilling a blind hole in the MH above the awning. I'll think of something.
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:18 PM   #42
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This has nothing to do with your awning but I was wondering how your transition from a 5er to a coach is going. I would like to move up from a 5er to a coach but we really love our 5er and don't know if the extra expenses of owning a coach are justifed. I think it is worth it buy DW does not want to give up the 5er and if she isn't happy with a coach I'm not going to be a happy camper.
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