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Old 06-25-2012, 08:37 AM   #57
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Al, I meant the people with the new design might be un-intentionally unlocking their mechanism.
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Old 06-25-2012, 09:14 PM   #58
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Man, you guys sure love to complicate things! There was an old saying I learned in Scouting over 50 years ago that still applies today.

KISS (keep it simple stupid)

Think about that a little bit!
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Old 06-25-2012, 10:03 PM   #59
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If you have a carefree that is 97 or newer, you don't have to replace the arms to move to a crank end cap instead of the spring design. Looks like it is $79. Unwinding the spring seems a bit "fun" though.
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:17 AM   #60
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Quote:
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Al, I meant the people with the new design might be un-intentionally unlocking their mechanism.
Dunner,
I had that exact thought for MANY years.... I've even stated that here on a couple of occasions actually. Wondering which it was? User error or equipment malfunction? When it happened to me, I was STILL uncertain, so I tried leaving the lock the opposite of the way I had it when it came unfurled the first time! I tried it both ways with that thought in mind. When it happenned again, a second time a mile after the first - there was no room for uncertainty left. That proved beyond any doubt that this was an equipment failure.

MSHappyCampers,
Kiss? Not following, thinking a little slow perhaps. You mean I should have had it locked with an after market or home brew lock somehow from the get go? Maybe you could expand on that for those of us maybe trying to keep it a little too simple? Simple like expecting well maintained stuff to work as designed.

wanderso,
Correct, 79. (or so), but the crank doesn't come with it. That's the price of the gear box kit itself. You could make a crank, or get the one they offer for another 50. (or so). I chose the KISS method.....
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Old 06-26-2012, 07:48 AM   #61
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Dunner,
I had that exact thought for MANY years.... I've even stated that here on a couple of occasions actually. Wondering which it was? User error or equipment malfunction? When it happened to me, I was STILL uncertain, so I tried leaving the lock the opposite of the way I had it when it came unfurled the first time! I tried it both ways with that thought in mind. When it happenned again, a second time a mile after the first - there was no room for uncertainty left. That proved beyond any doubt that this was an equipment failure.
Was your's the new design that unfurled with the lever in either direction?

Quote:
MSHappyCampers,
Kiss? Not following, thinking a little slow perhaps. You mean I should have had it locked with an after market or home brew lock somehow from the get go? Maybe you could expand on that for those of us maybe trying to keep it a little too simple? Simple like expecting well maintained stuff to work as designed.
I think he means we shouldn't be covering all the bases like we are.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:17 AM   #62
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Was your's the new design that unfurled with the lever in either direction?



I think he means we shouldn't be covering all the bases like we are.
Dunner,
I have a Carefree. The updated version of those is the one that uses the worm drive and gets rid of this "lever" operated design completely. The A&E are the ones with early and late design differences. The newer design still uses a lever, but as you've seen, is a much different design than the one I posted pictures of above. That design (pictured above) is very similar to what the older A&E's used.

Maybe a little crabby this morning. Not enough coffee yet...
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:25 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
Dunner,
I had that exact thought for MANY years.... I've even stated that here on a couple of occasions actually. Wondering which it was? User error or equipment malfunction? When it happened to me, I was STILL uncertain, so I tried leaving the lock the opposite of the way I had it when it came unfurled the first time! I tried it both ways with that thought in mind. When it happenned again, a second time a mile after the first - there was no room for uncertainty left. That proved beyond any doubt that this was an equipment failure.

MSHappyCampers,
Kiss? Not following, thinking a little slow perhaps. You mean I should have had it locked with an after market or home brew lock somehow from the get go? Maybe you could expand on that for those of us maybe trying to keep it a little too simple? Simple like expecting well maintained stuff to work as designed.

wanderso,
Correct, 79. (or so), but the crank doesn't come with it. That's the price of the gear box kit itself. You could make a crank, or get the one they offer for another 50. (or so). I chose the KISS method.....


What I meant was, if there is a simple way to solve a problem maybe we should go that way. Earlier in this thread I told about a simple solution that I found on either on this forum or maybe it was on RV.Net. It was about going to Lowes and buying a 3' x 1/4" rod and a short piece of vinyl tubing. You simply bend a 4" right-angle bend in one end of the rod to insert into the awning tube and lay the rest of the rod against the awning support and secure it with bungees or straps. I put the vinyl tubing over the long end of the rod to keep it from scratching the support. I don't see any possible way that the awning could unfurl with this in place. I probably spent about $5, not including bungees, which I already had. That's what I meant by the KISS reference. Why go to all the more complicated solutions discussed when something like this will solve the problem? If there's some reason this is not a good idea I would sure be open to hearing it. We just completed a 3000 mile trip out west and encountered some really high crosswinds, and the awning is still there.

I don't mean to put anyone down for their ideas, just that I try to find simple ways to solve problems when I can.
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Old 06-26-2012, 10:30 AM   #64
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Joe, I did almost the same thing you did as posted in post #51 on page 4. Very KISS and cost only my time. The spring and chain is another good idea and so is Cougars, but there is no way I was going to run a chain down the side of my MH, even covered. With the rod and bungee way, it doesn't matter if it doesn't roll up the same each time.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:10 PM   #65
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Joe, gotcha...
I guess I'm coming from the direction where one is not aware of or willing to admit to the potential for this issue to occur? One is depending on well maintained and seemingly functional equipment to work as designed? That's why I was caught so far off guard anyway.

When you get past that point, agreed, your method would seem to be very functional, and simple! Some of these processes would seem OK at 8-9 foot heights, but I struggle regarding practicality at 12+ feet.... -Al
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:23 PM   #66
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It is a little difficult to get the rod in mine, but a step ladder to get partially up there helps. It can be removed with some random wiggling and/or using the awning rod. My rod is a close fit at 5/16", so a 1/4" rod would be much easier. I hardly ever use my awning, so it is a non-issue.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:34 PM   #67
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As I said, my gate latch took a little finageling with the factory pull rod to get it latched from the ground. A little bit larger pole/hook assembly may be in my future.

I carry an aluminum ladder with me. It stands 6' as a step ladder and exterds to 11' as an extension ladder. I am more than willing to get it out and latch/unlatch my awning lock, if need be.

This will be post #67.

Mike

I think all this information/discussion/insite is really cool. I have learned a lot, and all I wanted to do was post another way to lock an awning.
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:46 PM   #68
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Cougar Mike, I have a latch like what you used in my spare latch bin, but found the salvaged CB antenna arm was much easier to fabricate. You might try grinding down the rod that goes into the roller to make it easier to lock. I thought about turning my rod down in my lathe, but got lazy and loved how it fit the hole perfectly.
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