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Old 02-26-2015, 11:59 AM   #15
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I don't, built some blocks. You can bend your levellers. The coach can shift, even if the front tires are blocked.If the rear tires are off the ground, the parking brakes can't work. Just overall not a good idea. If the ground is too uneven, I find a different spot.

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Old 02-26-2015, 04:45 PM   #16
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Thanks to all for your comments!
I have been very careful not to have any wheels off the ground. I use the auto leveling control then go out and inspect all the wheels. If any are off the ground, I go back in and manually lower the coach until all wheels are bearing some weight.

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Old 02-26-2015, 08:37 PM   #17
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On our (recently sold) '02 Georgetown, I found the auto-levelers to be such a PTA, I never used the system. It rarely took more than a couple of minutes to get level manually.

The only place it got interesting was on the driveway at our daughter's house. It had a significant down-hill slope and the front levellers were extended enough to get the front the wheels about 8" off the ground. We needed a 2-step bathroom stool to reach the bottom step of the RV doorway with its steps extended!
Frank Damp -Anacortes, WA,(DW- Eileen)
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:00 AM   #18
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I'll add my 2 cents as well (that's all it's worth). Build yourself a couple of step blocks that you can put under whichever tires are not touching, front or back. When the tires are off the ground, the air suspension and shocks are being pulled past their normal operating limits. Over time this can cost expensive damage. Also, as has been mentioned previously, there will be FAR less parking braking on your DP with the rear tires in the air.
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Old 02-27-2015, 08:11 AM   #19
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Would never auto level if I thought a tire could be off the ground. I'd find a better site or manual level and just get it close.

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Old 02-27-2015, 08:24 AM   #20
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I don't like my tires to leave the ground either, good advice to build some blocks or find a better site. Just my thoughts along with the above 2 posts.
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Old 02-28-2015, 08:24 AM   #21
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I think some of the commentary here reflects a difference in the RV length. Most of us would consider a site with a 3% grade to be reasonably level, at least to the eye. But 3% over 22 feet (typical wheel base for a 38-40 foot coach) is over 8" of vertical distance, so getting the front or rear wheels off the ground (or close enough so that tire traction is low) is a real possibility. A shorter coach with a 15 ft wheelbase would not be affected as much. Plus, it is easier to find a site that is level over a shorter distance. When we use state or county parks, or older private parks, with our 40 ft coach (268" wheelbase), it is not unusual to find that our wheels extend 3-4 feet beyond the nicely prepared & level portion of the site and "hang over" onto a more tilted portion.

Like some others here, we carry 2x10" planks so that we can drive the wheels onto them and maintain ground contact even though the jacks lift quite high.
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Old 02-28-2015, 10:43 AM   #22
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You gave me 2 options.
I choose stupid.
Too much risk.
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Old 02-28-2015, 11:24 AM   #23
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I carry six 2"x8"x24" boards and there is a bulls-eye type bubble level next to my leveling system control pad in the cockpit. I know as I pull into a site and glance at the bubble-level whether a tire will lift off the ground from the jacks. If the bubble position indicates tire lift then I get out and look to see if there is a better position in the site to put the tires or i put a board or two in the low spot to drive the tires onto. If i deploy board(s) for a tire then i also put the same number of boards for that wheel's jack-base to rest on to keep from overextending the jack.
Dave & Lynne - Retired & livin' the dream. '04 Bounder W32 on Workhorse W20 chassis powered by GM 8.1L gasser.
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Old 02-28-2015, 12:53 PM   #24
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I'd say keep back tires on ground. If you have kick down jacks they will fold up (been there). If you have straight jacks in most cases those 2 back hacks are the only thing keeps you from rolling away because if your tails in the air fronts aren't doing anything.

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