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Old 04-18-2019, 10:22 AM   #29
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Here's an update, late yesterday we started checking the neutral wires in the camper breaker panel. When we removed the neutral for the living room breaker everything worked fine except for that circuit, the main ground was no longer hot.
Tell us everything that does not work with that wire off.
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:23 AM   #30
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you should have said overslept at a Holiday Inn
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Old 04-18-2019, 10:43 AM   #31
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maybe you answered the previous question about the 30A house breaker being GFCI I di not see it if you did GFCI breakers will not tolerate Gnd to Neutral connections I not GFIC breaker then the breaker at the house would not care if it was seeing 120V from a neutral or a GND and would not trip it would only trip on overload of if defective
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Old 04-18-2019, 03:23 PM   #32
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you should have said overslept at a Holiday Inn
Rotflmao
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Old 04-18-2019, 05:49 PM   #33
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Like other's mentioned, lets get the meter out and do this right.

You could replace every breaker and all wiring to fix it. But that's not how its done.

Example: my last trailer had a loose neutral wire inside the box. Drove me crazy for awhile until I disconnected all shore power and inverter, and proceeded to check stuff. Found a loose screw holding the wire to the circuit. Back checked everything at that point and found other loose connections at the breaker panel, including the ground buss bar.

Not all peeps that work on alternating current at the trailer/coach builders know what they are doing. Some take short cuts.

When you're done, please check for hot skin to be sure no stray current exists.

Best of luck getting a handle on this. Your life depends on it.
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Old 04-18-2019, 06:24 PM   #34
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I'm puzzled as to how the OP detects a "hot ground" . I do understand that removing a neutral on a branch circuit can eliminate a problem if there's a wiring issue, or if an appliance that's plugged in is creating a fault to ground. A few posts back the OP said he disconnected the ground wire in the panel and said it was "hot". If he did that he was disconnecting the the ground from the RV so how can that wire be hot (back towards the house ? )

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Old 04-18-2019, 08:43 PM   #35
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Tell us everything that does not work with that wire off.
The ceiling fan, light over kitchen table and a outlet near the kitchen table
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:35 PM   #36
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Spent most of the day working on this today, along with the electrician, which owns a small electrical business and has over 30 years experience as a certified electrician, and yes he has been using a meter continuously to troubleshoot everything. I don't entirely understand everything he says especially when it comes to meter readings so i may not be relating everything he has done correctly but i assure you he knows what he's doing. Anyway, we got everything working. I should be overjoyed but the problem is we didn't really fix anything. This afternoon we took everything apart that was related to the circuit which we identified as having a bad neutral, which was the ceiling fan, light above kitchen table and an outlet near the kitchen table. We identified the problem being the neutral wire going from the ceiling fan to the light over the kitchen table. The ceiling fan of course is on the ceiling but the light over the kitchen table is on the slide out which runs across the ceiling the the back wall under neath the camper to a junction box which then goes into the slide out and to the light over the table (everything was good in this junction box).
We bypassed that neutral by running a temporary wire directly from the ceiling fan to the light and everything worked perfect.

Ok now it gets even more puzzling. First of all for the last couple of days during all of our trouble shooting we disconnected the shore line from the back of the camper to the camper breaker panel and ran a direct line from the house breaker panel the camper breaker panel (we did this to eliminate the possibility of it being the main line from the camper plug to the camper breaker panel). So i started thinking of a way of running a new neutral from the ceiling fan to the light over the table but i couldn't come up with anything that didn't involve major work and possibly cutting the wall or ceiling.
So, i started to put everything back together that i knew was good, unhooked the temporary line from the house breaker panel to the camper breaker panel and hooked the main line back up, this involved pulling the maing breaker out from the camper breaker panel hooking the main wires back up ( i was having a hard time with it so i pulled all the breakers off and put them all back in one at a time). Everything was working just as before but we still had the temporary neutral running from the ceiling fan to the light. Meanwhile a friend stopped over he is also works in the electrical field (but is not a certified electrician) he wanted to do some trouble shooting of his own so he unhooked the temporary neutral that we had running from the ceiling fan to the light and hooked up the original neutrals back up. Guess what, everything worked....

Everything is hooked up as it originally was before all this happened and it's working.

So, bottom line is, we didn't really fix anything and everything is working.

Sorry fro the lengthy write up but i wanted to explain the details
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:05 PM   #37
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its getting hard to follow this just a shot in the dark but sounds like it could be bad wires in the loom to the slide were they flex as in move in and out. any bare wires showing maybe a rodent got to them .BUT what happened to the hot ground wire?
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Old 04-18-2019, 11:39 PM   #38
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its getting hard to follow this just a shot in the dark but sounds like it could be bad wires in the loom to the slide were they flex as in move in and out. any bare wires showing maybe a rodent got to them .BUT what happened to the hot ground wire?
Jay D.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:19 AM   #39
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The ceiling fan, light over kitchen table and a outlet near the kitchen table
Light over the table is 120 volts
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:28 AM   #40
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Ask you electricians if they know the RV neutrals and Grounds must NOT be bonded together. Neutrals must float. Ground is bonded to the frame. Why is you light over the table 120 volts? Tell you electrician to remove the RV main breaker and do a continuity check on it. With the main off there should be NO electric flowing into you RV PERIOD.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:38 AM   #41
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Was this 30 amp receptacle installed at your house done for you and are you sure it is a 120 volt outlet? and not missed wired as 240? Is the main breaker that is tripping at the house a single poll breaker?
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Old 04-19-2019, 08:16 AM   #42
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In your writeup, you mention having a bad neutral.

What did you find that leads you to this decision?

I still think you have some loose connections somewhere in the loom or breaker panel.

What work or mods were performed prior to all of this happening, if any?

Why is the table light 120V? Most are 12V from the factory. Was it added later?

Sorry have to ask so many questions, just trying to understand what happened and the permanent repair.

Please check for hot skin periodically.
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