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Old 11-28-2008, 07:00 PM   #1
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It won't stay up??? Maybe I can help. This is Curtis Peterson's recommendation to improve the bed falling down situation.

The main thing that you're doing is to improve the mechanical advantage of the gas strut set up. Basically this is achieved by moving the top strut mounting bracket toward the end of the bed. Since the build specs on RVs is pretty sloppy (my opinion) the dimensions my vary on your unit. On mine I, after much trial and error, I found that moving my upper mount 2.5" was the perfect amount. (pic shows 3.5") Curtis said he's been able to move some back as much as 4" and some only 3". You'll know if you move it too much cause the bed won't close all the way. Be very careful and let the bed down slowly when checking as you don't want to damage the strut if you have moved it too much. I use spray powder and applied it on the upper shaft (like spray jock itch/athletes foot powder) to check the travel on the support on collapse (bed down). When it's set right you'll have 1/4" to 1/2" from full collapse. I cut the black polyflex (sheething) material with scissors to gain access. I used 2 - 1 X 2 pieces of wood, cut to 35" long, to support the bed while working on the support system (2 for safety). That bed is heavy when it up in the air. I released the lower clip from the lower mounting. You do not have to completely remove clip just slide it down to release it with a small straight screwdriver. Lift the bed with your back or one hand unloading the ball and socket on the lower mounting and remove the strut arm from the ball. I left all the top mounting together in one piece. Made my measurements and remove the 3 existing screws and then drill 3 small pilot holes and install the mounting to the new location. Install the strut on the bottom ball without locking the clip, as this is just a test. Spray the upper shaft with the powder spray, then slowly lower the bed to it's resting position. If the bed doesn't go all the way down, don't force it, as the strut has bottomed out in the collapsed position. Using your judgment move the upper mount back up a bit to adjust for the "too tight" situation.
When this is done, you have achieved a better mechanical advantage and the bed will also be a little bit higher on full opening. I was surprised of how much this improved the droopy bed condition. With no added weight on the end of the bed, after I started lifting the bed and got about half way up I could let go and bed would rise by itself! I used Gorilla tape to close up the cut polyflex material to make a neat finish. This process worked good with my queen size bed. If you have a heavier king bed and this doesn't procedure does help enough, replacement with the 94 lbs. struts maybe necessary. Hope this helps and the pix show some of the procedures better than I can explain it! This took me about an hour and a half (no hurry). I could it again in 25 minutes! First time is always a learning process. The biggest thing is unloading all that "stuff" under stored under the bed!


Left support original


Cut sheething to gain access to upper support mounting


I started at moving upper mounting 3.5" Way too much! Ended up at 2.5" and was perfect


1 X 2 wood stock 35" long


Original mounting strut collapse was about 3" from base of strut end


Finished mounting strut collapse should be 1/2" to 1/4".


Clip on lower mounting, slide down just enough to release ball


Clip locked


Gorilla tape to finish the sheething to look nice


Bed stayed up with 3 blankets on end of bed!
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Old 11-28-2008, 07:00 PM   #2
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It won't stay up??? Maybe I can help. This is Curtis Peterson's recommendation to improve the bed falling down situation.

The main thing that you're doing is to improve the mechanical advantage of the gas strut set up. Basically this is achieved by moving the top strut mounting bracket toward the end of the bed. Since the build specs on RVs is pretty sloppy (my opinion) the dimensions my vary on your unit. On mine I, after much trial and error, I found that moving my upper mount 2.5" was the perfect amount. (pic shows 3.5") Curtis said he's been able to move some back as much as 4" and some only 3". You'll know if you move it too much cause the bed won't close all the way. Be very careful and let the bed down slowly when checking as you don't want to damage the strut if you have moved it too much. I use spray powder and applied it on the upper shaft (like spray jock itch/athletes foot powder) to check the travel on the support on collapse (bed down). When it's set right you'll have 1/4" to 1/2" from full collapse. I cut the black polyflex (sheething) material with scissors to gain access. I used 2 - 1 X 2 pieces of wood, cut to 35" long, to support the bed while working on the support system (2 for safety). That bed is heavy when it up in the air. I released the lower clip from the lower mounting. You do not have to completely remove clip just slide it down to release it with a small straight screwdriver. Lift the bed with your back or one hand unloading the ball and socket on the lower mounting and remove the strut arm from the ball. I left all the top mounting together in one piece. Made my measurements and remove the 3 existing screws and then drill 3 small pilot holes and install the mounting to the new location. Install the strut on the bottom ball without locking the clip, as this is just a test. Spray the upper shaft with the powder spray, then slowly lower the bed to it's resting position. If the bed doesn't go all the way down, don't force it, as the strut has bottomed out in the collapsed position. Using your judgment move the upper mount back up a bit to adjust for the "too tight" situation.
When this is done, you have achieved a better mechanical advantage and the bed will also be a little bit higher on full opening. I was surprised of how much this improved the droopy bed condition. With no added weight on the end of the bed, after I started lifting the bed and got about half way up I could let go and bed would rise by itself! I used Gorilla tape to close up the cut polyflex material to make a neat finish. This process worked good with my queen size bed. If you have a heavier king bed and this doesn't procedure does help enough, replacement with the 94 lbs. struts maybe necessary. Hope this helps and the pix show some of the procedures better than I can explain it! This took me about an hour and a half (no hurry). I could it again in 25 minutes! First time is always a learning process. The biggest thing is unloading all that "stuff" under stored under the bed!


Left support original


Cut sheething to gain access to upper support mounting


I started at moving upper mounting 3.5" Way too much! Ended up at 2.5" and was perfect


1 X 2 wood stock 35" long


Original mounting strut collapse was about 3" from base of strut end


Finished mounting strut collapse should be 1/2" to 1/4".


Clip on lower mounting, slide down just enough to release ball


Clip locked


Gorilla tape to finish the sheething to look nice


Bed stayed up with 3 blankets on end of bed!
__________________

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Old 11-28-2008, 08:19 PM   #3
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This belongs in iRV2 General Discussion because it is a problem for any RVer...SKIA..why do you think I wanted you to post!

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Old 11-29-2008, 03:38 AM   #4
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Good tip! This is great information for anyone who has a problem with their bed and who is a little handy with tools. Fortunately, our bed is great and stays up just fine. We even added a memory-foam mattress topper that is fairly heavy and the bed still stays up.

In the trailer we used to have, the bed didn't stay up from day two. The reason I say day two is the bed stayed up when we first got the trailer, but as soon as we got home and made up the bed, the struts couldn't hold up the weight of the added sheets and blankets and down it came. I kept an old broom handle under the bed to prop it up.

I may try your solution on one of our storage bay doors. It is a little weak even though I recently replaced the strut, so I will check it with powder to see how much extra length I might have to work with. It's a fairly small bay and it only has 1 strut on the door, but it probably should have had 2 like most of the others. I have been thinking of adding a second strut, but maybe I can tweak the one I have and make it work by changing the anchor point.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:40 PM   #5
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Tom, Great post and thank you for taking the photo's to accompany the instructions. Also thank you for the emails. I forgot to mention that ours is the queen size bed. What a neat site this Excel forum is due to the care the members have for others. Kind regards, Bob
PS: We are so glad that Donna is doing well.
You are in our prayers.
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Old 11-29-2008, 03:56 PM   #6
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Thanks Bob and Glo,

That really warms the cockles of my heart! You are so kind. We promise to stop by and see you someday in NM if we don't see you on the road first! rockin'
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:15 PM   #7
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I merely added a third strut(~$25) to our king bed. About 15min. work to resolve the weight issue.
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Old 11-29-2008, 05:26 PM   #8
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Ray,

Where in the world did you mount the third strut? I'd like to see pic of it, if possible. rockin'
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:38 AM   #9
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I too am planning on adding a third strut if I ever locate struts. I ordered thru a rv parts house and the one I got was broken like the one I pulled off, they lock in the full open position. I have had three struts break in two years and a fourth came to me broke. Right now the one I got has been sent back and we are waiting for a new one to arrive at the rv parts stores. And strangest part yet is the ones that always break in the full open position are on the same side of the bed.
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:15 PM   #10
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If I can learn how to post a picture of the third strut, I will. I added a 2"X3" board to the underside of the raising portion and mounted the third strut in the center of the bed. I bought it at a CarQuest auto store.
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Old 11-30-2008, 05:48 PM   #11
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Hey Ray,

Here's MonacoMama's instructions to add a photo and more if you want! Mama's Photo Link

I'd like to see your set up!
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Old 11-30-2008, 07:46 PM   #12
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SKIA.. I knew this would be a popular post with many folks interested in it Thank you for taking so much time to do the post. I really would not have asked you to do the post if I thought only a few would be interested.

I will see if I can get a different solution for a similar problem here too.


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Old 11-30-2008, 08:04 PM   #13
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Anything for you Ms.Mama......SirSuckUpTom

I think I'm getting into that "teacher's pet" mode again!
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Old 12-01-2008, 06:11 PM   #14
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rockintom:
Hey Ray,

Here's MonacoMama's instructions to add a photo and more if you want! Mama's Photo Link

I'd like to see your set up! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
OK Tom_ now you're gonna make me move all that junk under the bed. Oh well, It's cold, snowy, brisk NW wind, can't work outside. That will offer me an opportunity for an escape -cabin fever already ya'know. We're staying home this winter so I can build a RV garage beside the house 40'x60'x15'.
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