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Old 12-25-2014, 11:58 PM   #15
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Wizard.....I pull the caps off of the lug nuts when I do mine. This is a handy tool that Camping World and many other places sell. Universal Lug Nut Cover Pliers - Wheel Masters 8211 - Wheel Covers - Camping World

I have two sizes of polishing balls. I use a smaller one to get in and around the lug nuts once the caps are off.
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:51 AM   #16
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As noted, if you have coated wheels like the Accushield, all you need to do is wipe them clean. If they are Accuride, they have no coating and will need to be polished.

I use a mild acid wheel wash before polishing. Mother 's is OK but a neighbor who is an OTR truck driver gave me some Wicked metal polish to try since his truck wheels were much brighter than I could ever get mine with Mothers. I now use Wicked and the large and small Mothers powerballs.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:08 AM   #17
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Thank you all for the feedback.
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:25 AM   #18
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autosol polish http://www.autosol.com/ProductDetail...oductCode=1100 works great.get a "mothers power ball" for your cordless drill http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05140-...r=1-1&keywords.do the passengers side first because that's the side you see more of, then do the drivers side last.oh don't forget to get a six pack of beer!!
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Old 12-26-2014, 11:26 AM   #19
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You might want ask around some of the larger truck stops. There are commercial polishers that will do all of your wheels in a couple of days.

Sometimes it just pays to have someone who knows what they are doing.

Here is an example:
WHEEL Per Wheel Set of 6
Off Truck $65/each $390.00
On Truck
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:32 PM   #20
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I agree with all that has been suggested. My technique is slightly different than what has been suggested however. I purchase a six pack of my choice and then suggest to my wonderful wife that it would be great to see if she could do a better job than I did last time in polishing the wheels. This is a lengthy job and that is why a six pack or maybe a short case would be better. When I finish the first cold one I ask her to open the next and this helps her get a break from the polishing. When the beer is gone the wheels are done and all I need to do is pack up my chair, compliment my wife on a job well done and then go inside and wait for dinner. I do volunteer to do the dishes, a guy's got to do his part!
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:51 AM   #21
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The best way that I can think of, is to hire someone to do it for you. Like, go to a rally somewhere. There's always a vendor around that will do it, for a fee. My old knees, just won't let me stay down very long.
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Old 12-27-2014, 08:55 AM   #22
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The best way that I can think of, is to hire someone to do it for you. Like, go to a rally somewhere. There's always a vendor around that will do it.
I did mine a couple of times, big mess, everything black, including me! this year while at Hearthside Grove, "Dazzling Detail" come in the resort everyday, $20.00 @/wheel........Better job than I have ever done........started at 9 am, I drank coffee and read the paper.........1-1/2 hrs. ........done.
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:35 AM   #23
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Tim,
Well Sir, first off, if what you're using is what I think you're using, a "Random-orbital" polisher,?, It's a very poor tool for you to use, to accomplish the results you'd like to see. The actual tool needed is a rotational pad, not random-orbital. The speed is the key here. Random orbitals are for application and removal of wax on paint jobs and, sanding in other situations.

The Mothers ball and other brands, on a drill motor is what most of these folks are talking about.

You see, aluminum, as in what is the majority of the chemical makeup of your wheels, oxidizes as we speak. When allowed to go un-checked, it becomes more and more dull and, the surface becomes more and more "course" as time goes on. So, by polishing the surface, you rid that surface of the aluminum oxidation and, you are making the surface finer and finer.

Picture it as "Mountains" when you start with really badly corroded wheels. Then, as you work at it, you come to "Valleys". Now, as you keep on at it, you eventually end up with a lake with no wind on it. Otherwise known as a "glass" surface. And that's when it ends up like the pictures below.

Without a doubt, IT'S LABOR, PERIOD! There is no magic elixir in making alloy wheels have a mirror finish. So, there's a number of products out there help with the process. Power is nice, if you have the correct tools and rouges, polishes, pastes and the lot. I've done a few zillion miles of aluminum polishing and, the effort put into it, shows in the end result. I've used Semi-Chrome, Mothers, Zepher-40 (Costco online product at the time), and a whole host of other metal polishes.

As for those that have coatings, there's not much anyone can do about those. If the coating becomes chipped, which is a pretty hard thing to do, and, you'd like to do something about it, "patching" the coating is almost frivolis because once air is introduced into or, under the original coating, it will continue to travel under the rest of the coating, slowly, but it will continue. So, there are chemicals out there that are alloy safe (Aircraft in particular) that will remove that coating and then, you've taken it upon yourself to keep that wheel polished.

Once a wheel is polished to an ultra-high luster, (Mirror finish) it will last considerably longer in between polishing sequences than if it weren't. Of course, that also depends on the atmosphere you reside in. Obviously the closer to the sea, i.e. salt air and saltier conditions, the more rapid the deterioration will progress.

So, in the end, get the right tools, the right pastes, polishes, liquids etc. and, take your time. The results will definitely be worth it. Oh, and one more thing. Removing the wheels for this service is by far, the best way to get the most efficient polishing done without the hinderance of the lug nuts and hub centers in the way. But, not many guys have the tools and equipment to remove those wheels and re-install them with the proper torque on the lug nuts etc. Those that do have the proper tools, know how valuable not having those components in the way while polishing is. Good luck.
Scott







Now THAT's a beautiful shine! I gotta try that!
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Old 12-27-2014, 10:44 AM   #24
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Remove the Polish with household baking Flour on a rag, laugh? Try it (old trucker trick) oh get he polish off the tires with BBQ lighter fluid.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:33 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
Wizard.....I pull the caps off of the lug nuts when I do mine. This is a handy tool that Camping World and many other places sell. Universal Lug Nut Cover Pliers - Wheel Masters 8211 - Wheel Covers - Camping World

I have two sizes of polishing balls. I use a smaller one to get in and around the lug nuts once the caps are off.
Wow, you spent $10 for a special tool when I just used channel lock pliers and a rag. They are a very useful plyers.
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:39 PM   #26
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Wow, you spent $10 for a special tool when I just used channel lock pliers and a rag. They are a very useful plyers.
I first used channel locks and a rag, no grip more pressure, cracked plastic covers, nothing but a fight/struggle to remove them, ordered tool like Don posted........worth every dollar
I have got $45.00 in mine! $10.00 for the tool, $35.00 to replace cracked nut covers
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:10 PM   #27
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Wow, you spent $10 for a special tool when I just used channel lock pliers and a rag. They are a very useful plyers.

That Don is a smart guy! When he talks, I listen!
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Old 12-27-2014, 01:41 PM   #28
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MS HAPPY CAMPERS,
The work you see in those pictures was not all that hard. Since our coach has been in a covered parking situation all its life, the wheels have had the luxury of being protected from the elements. The only time they're not is when we're using it.

But, being retired, I'm in no hurry in projects like this. When doing it for the first time since purchase, it took me a day per wheel. And that was lolly-gagging around. But, now, it's only a touch up, about once every 6 months and, that takes about 15-20 minutes per wheel. As stated, the finer the finish, the more it fights the oxidation process.

If I have to remove the wheel for brake inspection/drum inspection or, any other reason, I take a bit longer 'cause I'm doing sections that you cannot get when the lug nuts etc. are on.

And, speaking of lug nuts. I too have one of those specialty tools for removing the Stainless steel caps. The "$10.00" tool was worth every penny. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat if I lost it. Having the right tool for the right job has always been a priority for me. I also have the specialty tool for removing the big, retaining bolt/cap that retains the rear hub cover on many Freightliner Chassis vehicles. In the picture below, you'll see both tools, mounted up and out of the way but, instantly handy if and when needed.
Scott


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