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Old 02-24-2017, 07:45 AM   #15
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I have a supply line coming from the ground. It has a tee with a valve on each end. Both valves have new back flow prevents/check valves. On one end the hose goes to the fresh water, The other end I have a Wye that has little cut off valves on each outlet. I have a hose for my small electric pressure washer and the other connects to the black water flush. When I flush I close both gray water valves and open black water valve. I turn on the flush. When all is out and I see just the flush water in the see doo I close the black water valve and let the flush run. I use my cell phone stopwatch and let the flush run for 5 minutes and then open the black water valve. If it is all clear water (after about 3 minutes I close the black water valve and let water run for 2 minutes. If not clear I start over. I always use the stopwatch and never walk away during the process. At the end I close the wye valve and the little black valve on the wye. Once the back flow valves stop spewing water I open the fresh water valve. Never had a problem. Never walk away from it running and always use the stopwatch.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:41 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Pusherman View Post
A friend of mine has a similar setup. He came back from a campout, after flushing his black tank before leaving. Set up in his permanent site, and hooked up the water. I happened to come along to visit, and asked him why water was running off his roof. He thought it might be condensation (it wasn't that warm that day).

I asked if I could use the bathroom, and when I lifted the lid, the toilet was full of water. When I lifted the lid, the vacuum was broken, and water ran all over the floor.

He ran outside to shut off the water, and found out he forgot to turn off the valve going to the black tank flush after disconnecting from the prior campout. The open flush valve had flooded the black tank, had run it up the vent pipe, running off the roof, and when the toilet lid was lifted, it flooded the bathroom.

Boy was his wife pissed! (Needles to say I used the campground facilities!)

Moral of story. I would not set up a permanent hookup to flush the black tank. We're all human, and we all screw up. I would prefer a little more labor to set up the hose each and every time I flush the black tank rather than have toilet water all over the coach.

And this coach was a 2016. Wife told him 'we're trading it in tomorrow'...

I'm with you Don!
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Old 02-24-2017, 02:45 PM   #17
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Happy Camper...I understand your concerns...However, since I retired I have spent almost 4 winters in Fl. I leave the flush hooked up all the time. I am very careful and never had a problem. It's hooked up now and valved out. I plan to keep doing the same thing...being careful. I just wish I had been as careful when I bought Pro guard Liquid roof EPDM. I got a bad batch and have destroyed my roof. They will not help...Buyer beware and make sure when u are in a panic and call them on their recorded phone you have your facts straight. Shipping department told me they had bad batch of raw material in 2015...I bet that guy was fired. No help from Pro Guard Liquid Roof. I wish someone show me how to post pics of how Liquid Roof destroyed my roof. LR is great!!! I just bought a bad batch and they will not help!!!
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Old 02-25-2017, 04:33 PM   #18
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I have used that method for years, only I unhook the hose from the wye that goes to the black tank after flushing. I have never had a problem, I just coil it up and hang it up.
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Old 02-26-2017, 09:56 PM   #19
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siphon back

before we go too far. i use a separate hose for black flushing. but if the flush nozzle is towards the top of tank, and antisiphon vacuum break is above the top of tank how can black water get back flushed into the hose? . yes i get a little clean water from the fitting when i disconnect the hose . i have a shutoff at the tank end of the hose which i close before disconnecting, then i open to flush water out of hose but i still dont see how i could back siphon black water unless tank is overfilled to the vent pipe? yes no?
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Old 02-26-2017, 10:06 PM   #20
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before we go too far. i use a separate hose for black flushing. but if the flush nozzle is towards the top of tank, and antisiphon vacuum break is above the top of tank how can black water get back flushed into the hose? . yes i get a little clean water from the fitting when i disconnect the hose . i have a shutoff at the tank end of the hose which i close before disconnecting, then i open to flush water out of hose but i still dont see how i could back siphon black water unless tank is overfilled to the vent pipe? yes no?
YES......
Black tank would have to be FULL so full it has backed up vent pipe (and toilet pipe also)....high enough to force liquid waste thru flush nozzle then up to top of flush pipe where anti-siphon vacuum breaker is located...typically in bathroom sink cabinet (although have heard of them being in a closet).
Now that the level is high enough to force fluids thru flush nozzle then high enough to force fluids to top of flush line......it would then FLOW into the inside of RV either bathroom sink cabinet (or that closet install) cause the vacuum breaker is OPEN to atmosphere (disc is in closed position and any fluids coming back would sit on top of disc and flow out open top on device)

Just look at HOW they are designed............
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Old 02-27-2017, 06:16 AM   #21
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cause the vacuum breaker is OPEN to atmosphere (disc is in closed position and any fluids coming back would sit on top of disc and flow out open top on device)

Just look at HOW they are designed............
That right there is why I eliminated the vacuum breaker. If you go to the B&B website, you can read that the vacuum breakers are to be installed where water dripping will cause no harm. Mine was installed under the kitchen counter top right next the silverware and above the electrical inlet. With a check valve in the line, in my opinion, it is safer than contaminated utensils and electrical fires.
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Old 02-27-2017, 12:06 PM   #22
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It always comes down to the fact that it works most of the time but makes a real mess when it does not. Many of us simple don't see the need to create the potential problem. Hook up the black when one needs it, put it away the rest of the time. That way nothing can fail and create a problem.
Lazy is as lazy does, not worth the risk. Safety should always be the default.

Happy trails.
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Old 02-28-2017, 06:57 AM   #23
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I too use a wye valve with the little shutoff levers at the park hose bib. I also used to leave my separate flush hose hooked up but not anymore.

A park worker asked to use the water for what I don't really remember but it was work/park related, I said no problem and they quickly left. A short time later I kept hearing water running while I was inside. I walk around looking for the source and I realized the park worker was nice enough to turn all of my water back on after using it.

Knowing what could have been, that was the last time I left it hooked up.
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Old 02-28-2017, 07:25 AM   #24
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Been doing it this way for 14+ years. Works like a charm! I use Cam & Groove quick connect fittings to remove the Y device so the floor can be closed up before travel.

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Old 03-01-2017, 05:07 PM   #25
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As someone that has seen some bad things in agriculture, let me pose a potential risk. You decide if you wish to accept it.

Worst case scenario I can imagine:
For some unknown reason both valves end up opened and the hookup to CG shut off, the vent for the fresh water tank clogs and for some reason you weren't setup for city water. Your check valves fail (yes, they do fail, even the brass ones...) and you end up with a mouth full of "black water." The odds of this happening are likely slim, but not impossible. Improbable perhaps

Also keep in mind - with that connected all the time the general risk increases of something bad happening all-around. Things that require manual intervention are done so as to eliminate the human factor as best they can. I believe this to be one of those cases. You can be dead tired doing something you've done without issue 10,000 times before - then humanity gets in the way - ick. Or someone "helps..."

To me it isn't worth the risk. It's a personal decision if you ignore the codes often involved.

The engineers know what they're doing on this. If they thought they could do without, the bean counters would have them do without

I'd much rather have things fail safe than just fail. The current system allows for zero potential contamination if utilized as designed.
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Old 03-01-2017, 05:45 PM   #26
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That's what makes this forum so great and useful too is that people are exposed to many wonderful and unique ideas but only you alone can decide whether they are right for you.

Some people will say "no way" such as your self and others will say, I'd like to try that.

It is a personal decision that only YOU can make alone. We don't make it for you.

I always say, it's your RV, your money, your choice. No one is forcing anyone to go along with what others are suggesting.

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Old 03-01-2017, 08:52 PM   #27
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I split the fresh water feed into my coach into a second line that runs over to the tank flush. See photo:



I connected the second line to a ball valve and a short piece of hose with a quick connect. When I want to flush my black tank, I connect the quick connect, open the ball valve and flush. The system is protected three ways, first, I don't leave it connected, second, the ball valve shuts off the water and third, there is a check valve.

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