Black tank valve cable broke. What next?

[scottandanna]

I knew something was wrong since we bought this trailer in July. The black and gray tanks have been very difficult to open and close, and neither tank ever gets full, so I have assumed that they are not fully closing.

Today, while dumping the black, the cable broke on the handle while I was pushing it back closed.

I have already saved the link to the new handle/cable/valve assemblies, so I guess I better purchase them ASAP.

But, my question is three-fold.

1) Should I (can I) just replace the cable and handle, so I don't have to mess with the nasty drippings?

2) If I have to replace the gatevalve, how much would I expect to pay to have a mobile repair guy fix them?

3) I have an extended warranty on this trailer, transferred from the original owners. Do you think I could get reimbursed for the repair if I filed a claim?

[ramn4ver]

Replaced my black tank cable last fall in my 13 Crossroads Rushmore. It was a braided cable. I dropped the belly. About a 1/2 day job. Replaced with a solid steel cable. Works great now.

[Tha_Rooster]

Originally Posted by scottandanna

I knew something was wrong since we bought this trailer in July. The black and gray tanks have been very difficult to open and close, and neither tank ever gets full, so I have assumed that they are not fully closing.

Today, while dumping the black, the cable broke on the handle while I was pushing it back closed.

I have already saved the link to the new handle/cable/valve assemblies, so I guess I better purchase them ASAP.

But, my question is three-fold.

1) Should I (can I) just replace the cable and handle, so I don't have to mess with the nasty drippings?

2) If I have to replace the gatevalve, how much would I expect to pay to have a mobile repair guy fix them?

3) I have an extended warranty on this trailer, transferred from the original owners. Do you think I could get reimbursed for the repair if I filed a claim?

1) it depends on if the valve is bad also which they probably are since they are hard to open and close.
2) I would bet $75-$100 a hour plus valves, I would flush tanks real good which you need to do anyway and do it yourself.
3) I would guess if you touch them they want pay a dime unless you get it approved first.

[Dropthejacks]

#1 They make lubricant for valves that you dump into the tank to make them easier to open and close. That may help a lot.

#2 You should be using a clear elbow on the outlet so you can see if the tank is fully closed or leaking. If the black tank is not closed and "gunk" is leaching and sitting in and around the gate valve, of course it will be hard to move.

#3 The dump valves with the flexible cable pulls do have a habit of coming loose under the RV and the cable flexes too much for the valves to properly function. If you have an extended warranty, I would pull it out of my pocket about now and see what the dealer will do.

Good Luck!

[wingnut60]

That #2 item above is a real help in noticing a leaking valve--just had to replace the seals on my Suites and had seen fluid moving after flushing the tank and closing the valve. If your black valve is accessible, it isn't too bad a job to just get a new valve w/cable.

[scottandanna]

I have the clear elbow, with the inline backflow rinser.

I can see, and am sure the gray tank leaks when it is "closed", but the black seems to close.

If I need to get under there and to the work, I will replace both.

So, thanks for the suggestions. It pushes me to do what I know I need to do, but was hoping someone would tell me the cable-only fix would work.

That said, ordering two new valves and cable/handle kits, and replacing both before it starts to freeze up here.

[scottandanna]

I am not sure if the RV park will give me permission to do black tank repairs.

Is it possible to just replace the cable?

I am sorry, I have not personally gotten up under the trailer, pulled out the belly cover, and inspected the cable/valve assembly. Just doing my research at this point.

[wingnut60]

Not familiar with units other than the DRV Suites--my black valve is accessed thru the basement utility access doors. And I would think some valves may allow cable replacement, but not sure.

[scottandanna]

Update--I peeled back the belly panel, the valve slides freely, but the cable is no only broken, but also stuck inside the housing. Since I have removed all the stuff to get to the valves, I decided to purchase two complete valve/cable kits from Valterra and will install them when they get shipped.

I hate working under the house and on my back, so I will do them both while I am down there and button it all back up and "fuget 'bout it!"

[Badlands Bob]

You might as well do it right while you're doing it. That way, you won't have to worry about it.

[wingnut60]

These are pretty simple devices, but the trick is to get the valve back in with the seals correctly placed and not kinked. Hopefully, you have a good amount of space to work in and the flanges are lining up easily.
Is the valve horizontal, vertical or in between? Having just done my black valve that was sitting at a 45d angle and hard to reach, I did not get the seals seated correctly the first time, prompting another disassembly/reassembly. When you get one in place, I would suggest to begin filling the tank with clear water and check for leaks and operation before going on to the other valve.
On the second attempt on the valve, I used plumbers jelly to place the lower seal on the flange and the upper seal on the valve body--that seemed to work easier than having both seals on the valve body.
Good luck, it ain't fun....

[scottandanna]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

These are pretty simple devices, but the trick is to get the valve back in with the seals correctly placed and not kinked. Hopefully, you have a good amount of space to work in and the flanges are lining up easily.
Is the valve horizontal, vertical or in between? Having just done my black valve that was sitting at a 45d angle and hard to reach, I did not get the seals seated correctly the first time, prompting another disassembly/reassembly. When you get one in place, I would suggest to begin filling the tank with clear water and check for leaks and operation before going on to the other valve.
On the second attempt on the valve, I used plumbers jelly to place the lower seal on the flange and the upper seal on the valve body--that seemed to work easier than having both seals on the valve body.
Good luck, it ain't fun....

Yeah, I encountered that this morning. I took the black valve completely out, trying to figure out how the cable is attached. Took three tries to get it back in without the gasket coming off.

Mine are both horizontal, and pretty decent room to work. I had to pry back on the pipe a bit to give me space, but nothing too strenuous.

When I put it back in and noticed the seal coming off, that is when I decided to replace all of the seals, valves, and cables, instead of just messing with the cables. I was afraid the seals would soon start to leak if I reinstalled them.

[scottandanna]

Originally Posted by wingnut60

These are pretty simple devices, but the trick is to get the valve back in with the seals correctly placed and not kinked. Hopefully, you have a good amount of space to work in and the flanges are lining up easily.
Is the valve horizontal, vertical or in between? Having just done my black valve that was sitting at a 45d angle and hard to reach, I did not get the seals seated correctly the first time, prompting another disassembly/reassembly. When you get one in place, I would suggest to begin filling the tank with clear water and check for leaks and operation before going on to the other valve.
On the second attempt on the valve, I used plumbers jelly to place the lower seal on the flange and the upper seal on the valve body--that seemed to work easier than having both seals on the valve body.
Good luck, it ain't fun....

I spent an entire day working on both the gray and black 3" valves, and after at least 6 attempts, both are still leaking and I can feel the valve binding against the seals, so I know the seals are slipping off and getting bunched up in there. Hired a guy to come out and complete the job correctly.

His response was to cut a chunk off the pipe to give more room to work, then after the valves are installed, use a piece of rubber hose-to-hose connection to slide it all back where it belongs and clamp it down.

Wish I had thought of that the first time I was under there working on it...

But at least I am keeping my hands clean today.

But forking out a couple hundred bucks for a house call...

[OldGunbunny]

Or you could quit screwing around with it and fix it once.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-E100.../dp/B004RCXC1G