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02-19-2017, 09:27 PM
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#1
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Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Runaway Bay, TX
Posts: 57
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Building an RV Garage for a 45' Diesel Pusher
So a few months ago, we bought our first diesel pusher motorhome - a 2005 Holiday Rambler 45PBQ and ever since the purchase, its been stored at an RV storage facility that's only protected from the rain. And having just moved back into a real house that actually had room to build an 18' x 50' RV shelter, we began construction about a month ago.
But the trick about building a garage for such a massive motorhome is re-enforcing a slab that can take the weight of it - with a GVWR of around 47,000 lbs., we knew that we couldn't just build a normal garage pad.
So here is the progress so far, more pics to come.
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02-19-2017, 09:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Leander, TX
Posts: 151
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Curious why didn't you use the prefab metal buildings? We are building a new shop soon and I'm definitely leaning towards those.
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02-19-2017, 10:23 PM
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#3
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Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Runaway Bay, TX
Posts: 57
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The first reason I went with stick framing is because our restrictions say that the out building needs to compliment the house and reflect it in similar structure - so I just always had it in my head that I'd do similar siding and the same composition roof as my house has. And the second reason is that I've never built a metal building and not very familiar with it - I've done framing so its something I was comfortable with. And the last reason was my assumption was that stick framing was cheaper, but I have no idea if that's true or not since I never even considered going with a pre-fab metal building but would really be curious how much one costs that's the same size. Mine is 18' x 50' and 14' 5" ceiling height.
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02-19-2017, 10:47 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Travis AFB, CA
Posts: 367
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Looking good! The metal building may be cheaper in the long run but if you are like me I would rather build it myself my way...I enjoy the work and enjoy knowing it is the way I want it...
__________________
2016 Fleetwood Bounder 35K, 30th Anniversary Edition w/ 2016 Ford Chassis
2018 JL Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, Firecracker Red
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02-19-2017, 11:44 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,824
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One point for consideration while you are still in the construction phase. I keep my motorhome in a metal shed with a roll up door on the family farm, and the big thing I find myself paranoid about is the potential of a propane leak. The shed has a pair of 3x3 ft louvered vents without fans, one on the west wall and one on the north wall, but both near the same corner, and about 10 ft above ground level so not a lot of cross ventilation also propane is heavier than air so has the potential of pooling. So I keep considering adding some type of louvered vent close to ground level.
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02-20-2017, 01:51 AM
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#6
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Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,822
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Looking forward to seeing pictures of your progress.
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
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02-20-2017, 04:46 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isaac-1
One point for consideration while you are still in the construction phase. I keep my motorhome in a metal shed with a roll up door on the family farm, and the big thing I find myself paranoid about is the potential of a propane leak. The shed has a pair of 3x3 ft louvered vents without fans, one on the west wall and one on the north wall, but both near the same corner, and about 10 ft above ground level so not a lot of cross ventilation also propane is heavier than air so has the potential of pooling. So I keep considering adding some type of louvered vent close to ground level.
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In addition to LP leak measures you mention I think I would install 2-3 LP leak alarms near the floor level.
__________________
2012 F-350 SD PSD - 2018.5 MONTANA 3791RD
Fulltiming since September 1, 2010
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02-20-2017, 05:05 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Leander, TX
Posts: 151
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specs on the pad would be interesting I'm going through that now as well.
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02-20-2017, 05:27 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Fayetteville, GA
Posts: 408
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I went with a 20' X 55' metal building with roll-up door on a 8" 4000 PSI slab. Building is certified at 140 MPH wind rate all metal and galvanized 12 gauge framing for $12K free installation with 20 year warranty. It has 14' sides with 17' 6" peak.
__________________
2013 HR 43DFT RR10R
All Electric FWS-Tag FMCA 451687
2017 Ford F150 4X4 Toad
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02-20-2017, 05:32 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe according to the Rinpoche, of the SF monks.
Posts: 7,305
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Solid looking floor. I built our MH shed 30X40 feet, now we have a 38+ Footer! Going to add 12 more feet this summer. It took a while to figure out a door, but eventually I made my own 24 foot wide swing out that gives a full 14 foot high entry. Nice to have the rig inside. Good job on your shed.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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02-20-2017, 05:37 AM
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#11
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Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Runaway Bay, TX
Posts: 57
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The specs on the pad are as follows:
After a little research on Newell's forum, it was determined that we had to go with a 6" pad even though my concrete guy said that a good 4" would be adequate - we wanted no question that it would be strong enough for a 50k lb RV and the structure that will surround it.
The steel was 3/8" placed on 16" centers. The grade-beam was then dug out all the way around to at least 12" below grade (which means on the low side of the pad where the 20" forming boards are, its goes down below the grade). 5/8" steel was then placed in all the beams - and I decided to put cross beams at each axle location just to have added assurance that my motorhome would be sitting on solid re-enforced steel beams of concrete.
Total down here in Texas was what follows: used 26 yards of 6 sack mix concrete due to the fact it was bumping around freezing when the pad was poured and the bill for just the concrete was around $2900
The labor to set It all up, for a 900 sq. ft. pad, forming boards, beams, placing the steel, 4 loads of dirt and all the steel was a total of $3250.
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02-20-2017, 07:13 AM
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#12
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Moderator Emeritus
Monaco Owners Club Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 13,426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silvrhand
Curious why didn't you use the prefab metal buildings? We are building a new shop soon and I'm definitely leaning towards those.
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Metal buildings aren't allowed in our rural subdivision either. I have a large workshop out back and it's brick just like the house. I figure it cost about 2/3 more than a similar size metal building would have cost, but it's nice to know the neighborhood is going to look good. I haven't build a coach garage because I don't think I can afford the cost of a brick garage.
__________________
Dennis and Katherine
2000 Monaco Dynasty
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