Carbon Monoxide in the trailer, or faulty detectors?

[scottandanna]

We have had the trailer for just shy of 2 years, and we have been living full-time in it since June 2016. Soon after we left Houston in June, the CO/Propane sensor in the wall started going off randomly, usually while we were sleeping, so one night I cut the wires to kill it and purchased one that plugs into the wall socket the next day.

All was fine for about 4 months, now the new one is going off randomly. Late at night, while we are watching TV or sleeping, usually.

So it came down last night.

So....

Where would CO be coming from if there is in fact a leak?

How would I go about detecting where it is coming from and how would I fix it?

The detectors simply say "Call 911 and get out to fresh air" and I am not sure how that will fix the possible problem. IF there even IS a problem, which I doubt, because we have never left the building and none of us, including the dog and cat, have gotten sick or died yet.

Regardless, if there is a leak, of course I want to fix it. If not, I want a decent detector that I can trust if there ever IS a leak.

[lynnmor]

Google: dog farts propane detector

[Old Crows]

Two alarms. Two different detectors. Two different times. What would I think????? It is a "positive" unless you can rule out a 'false positive.'

Is it mounted correctly?

Since they are hardwired or plug in....is the power supply reliable?

Check all electric connections. You may have something moldering and smoldering out of sight.

It is possible that the detectors are close to the battery bank and are (somehow, some way) picking up off gassing from charging batteries. Check for vents, drafts, etc..

Could be defective furnace or furnace exhaust.

Could be defective water heater or exhaust.

Defective exhaust on generator if you are using it.

Could be exhaust from another RV genny or heater.

More here: https://www.fmca.com/motorhome/basic...poisoning.html

NEVER DISABLE A SAFETY DEVICE!! EVER!

Were it me.... I'd take a belt and braces approach and put the old unit back in service and use both detectors until I sorted the problem.... (We have two, a hardwired 12V OEM and a battery powered job. If it's plug in 110 V, it does not work when driving unless you use the generator or on shore power.)

Little exposure over long time or big exposure over short time.
CO is a killer. Dead is dead.....like really dead. Just because you don't see/feel any effects does not mean CO is not present.

[BrianGlenn]

CO alarms detect levels that are below "sick/death" levels.
We can usually "smell" LP leaks in low concentrations due to propane odorizers (mercaptans) that are added to consumer propane (rotten egg smell).

CO comes from combustion gases. Fridge on propane, furnace, generator exhaust.... Would happen at nights as this is when there is less movement in RV, doors not opening and closing, windows usually not open, etc

Be careful.

UNDERWRITERS LABORATORIES INC. UL2034
WHAT LEVELS OF CO CAUSE AN ALARM?

Underwriters Laboratories Inc. Standard UL2034 requires residential CO Alarms to sound when exposed to levels of CO and exposure times as described below. They are measured in parts per million (ppm) of CO over time (in minutes). UL2034 Required Alarm Points*:

If the Alarm is exposed to 400 ppm of CO, IT MUST ALARM BETWEEN 4 and 15 MINUTES
If the Alarm is exposed to 150 ppm of CO, IT MUST ALARM BETWEEN 10 and 50 MINUTES.
If the Alarm is exposed to 70 ppm of CO, IT MUST ALARM BETWEEN 60 and 240 MINUTES.

Note* Approximately 10% COHb exposure at levels of 10% to 95% Relative Humidity (RH). The unit is designed not to alarm when exposed to a constant level of 30 ppm for 30 days.

IMPORTANT!
CO Alarms are designed to alarm before there is an immediate life threat. Since you cannot see or smell CO, never assume it’s not present.
An exposure to 100 ppm of CO for 20 minutes may not affect average, healthy adults, but after 4 hours the same level may cause headaches.
An exposure to 400 ppm of CO may cause headaches in average, healthy adults after 35 minutes, but can cause death after 2 hours.

[Pete1985]

I sent mine back to the company that made it and they gave me a new one no more beeping.

[scottandanna]

Originally Posted by Old Crows

Were it me.... I'd take a belt and braces approach and put the old unit back in service (never disable a life safety system!!!!!) and use both detectors until I sorted the problem....

Now that there is some FINE advice!!!

If they are not going off at the same time, or within a few minutes of each other, then I will know they are both faulty, and need to buy a new one.

I have ordered a CO detector with an led readout, so I can see if the levels are rising or falling before the alarm goes off. Also, hope to be able to take it down, move it close to potential sources, and see if the number rises, to help me find out if there is a problem and locate where it might be.

[wa8yxm]

Some alarms not only measure but report the PPM. (parts per Million)

Now, a CO alarm is usually mounted HIGH in an RV
Possible sources of CO are Generator exhaust (See note below) Furnace (If the heat exchanger gets religion (Becomes holy, er, holey) Stove/oven (if Propane) and anything burning.

NOTE: under some wind conditions, even a good condition furnace the CO can "Blow back" if it's "Spitting into the wind." That is the wind is blowing into the furnace exhaust.

Note 2: The generator need not be yours. I have had a next site neighbor set off my CO alarm. This is why I encourage the use of Gen-Turi exhaust extensions.. And one caution on the Gen-turi.. I've read many folks yammer about "Exhaust gas being drawn in by the Air Conditioner".. I have NEVER heard of it happening, And in fact most modern (This century) Rooftop A/Cs do not have a fresh air intake so can not draw in anything.

Another source is hot wire... They give off many gasses some of which might get detected.

Now, the explosive gas (Propane Detector) is low mounted.
Methane ("Natural gas".. often assoicated with the eating of beans).. Alcohol. Gasoline, Booze, Hair Spray, Butane, and in fact almost ****ane, will set it off.

They do make combine detectors, I do not recommend them for RV use.

[scottandanna]

The one that came with the trailer was a combination CO/propane sensor and it was mounted near the floor. The one I bought to replace it was a combo unit as well, and is mounted about chest high. I think I will be buying two separate units that are for one or the other, and mount one low, one high.

I tried to call the local fire department to see if they could come out with a professional sensor and maybe find my source of CO, if there is one. But they have M-F 9-5 hours, and will not answer the phone on Sunday.

[Chuck_Hammer]

if propane is OFF,
no appliances are working or ON...
check WHAT is running before alarms went off (heat)

get a blood test and see if CO is in your blood...

and go from there.... CO, can be very dangerous...
retired auto mechanic.

[S-Troop]

Check on the backside if the unit and see what the replace date is. They do have a shelf life. I just replaced one doing the same thing and the date printed on the back had been exceeded. The replacement has been working as it should.

[CampingCajun]

Originally Posted by S-Troop

Check on the backside if the unit and see what the replace date is. They do have a shelf life. I just replaced one doing the same thing and the date printed on the back had been exceeded. The replacement has been working as it should.

1


This. Had the same situation.

[scottandanna]

One was manufactured oct 2014 and the other is jun 2016, so both are fairly new. Both say replace after 60 months.

Hooked the original stock one back up, and will monitor throughout the day and try to figure out what is tripping them, or if they both trip at the same time.

Of course, weather is BEAUTIFUL today, so all windows and doors are open, so it may not trip. If one DOES, then I know it is faulty, as the air is crisp and clear, and nice breeze through the trailer.

[Old Crows]

Hold on....if one trips...it doesn't mean one, or the other is faulty... Could be one is sensing and the other not because of where they are placed, concentrations, drafts, etc.. Put another way, they have different 'input' data. The reverse is that of "false negative"... One is failing to detect...the other is.

Comparing one against the other is good, but you have to be careful when determining which one is lying to you.

If both alarm at the same time its likely they are simultaneously detecting.

Since they have not "aged out" and if they both "test" OK, they are both working as designed.

I come from a field where my butt and my mates depended on functioning, calibrated safety instruments using a check source. You have a test button that electronically checks circuits, battery (power), and alarm. I would infer that the self check also provides an electronic signal identical to that generated by CO/LP in the detector element at the highest detection sensitivity.
If the check function is working, its probably 100 billion to 1 that it is properly functioning.

In another life....I learned to "trust your instruments" not your brain or your body.... If your brain & body tell you you are flying straight and level BUT the artificial horizon says bank angle of 45 degrees, nose way down; the airspeed indicator is winding up to the Do Not Exceed Red Line; the altimeter is spinning off numbers like a slot machine spilling coins in the tray; and the turn and bank is pegged in different directions... You are in deep deep deep trouble. You trust the instruments.... For thou art in a steep graveyard spiral and accellerating...little houses are becoming big houses!!!!

Trust that the detectors are doing their job.... Focus on checking every possible source of CO in or around your RV.

[twogypsies]

Here is just one article of many on the internet (Google) that explains about the placement:

https://nest.com/support/article/Sho...near-the-floor

Ours was installed near the ceiling.