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Welcome to the RV life!
I'm a HUGE fan of the Carrier RV air conditioners, I actually just swapped my 4th AC unit from a Dometic to a Carrier b/c they are so great. Two different coaches and different brands on each - now are all cold and efficient with Carrier. Love them.
I don't usually look at the model numbers b/c for some insane reason they have a ton of different numbers - There are really only a few options however.
You could have a heat pump model, more on that later.
You could have a ducted or a "free-blow" model - For a trailer, it is likely a free-blow with a set of controls on the inside ceiling unit. If the free-blow controls offer a heat mode, then you can see whether you have a heat strip by removing the 4 screws and lowering the inside plastic panel. If you have a plate in the middle with a heat coil in it right by the very center of the unit - that is NOT a heat pump then. If you only see a big hole with a fan above you, then that is likely a heat pump - IF you have heat controls on the unit. If there are no heat controls, then it is purely an air conditioner, and that is fine.
Looking at the wiring (from inside) to the upper unit if you are still questioning, the wire colors are blue, black, yellow, green/yellow, and white. If you have an extra color, then it could be a heat pump and there will be a magnetic reversing valve on the tubing of the upper unit with that extra color going to it.
Looking at the outside unit on the roof, it should say "Carrier AirV" on the dome, and MAY say "HC" as well although it probably doesn't for your size trailer.
Based on my experience, I am going to assume you have the free-blow interior with controls on the roof, and may or may not have the heat strip (somewhat unimportant right now) and that it is NOT the HC model. I am going to also assume it is not a heat pump.
This means you should have the following specs:
13,500 BTU performance
120VAC / 20 amp breaker circuit
Actual (expected) start current: 12 amps, possibly 13-14 with high pressure from high outdoor temps
Actual (expected) run current: 9-10 amps
Fan uses 1-2 amps
~1680 starting watts
~1200 running watts
You should be able to run this on a single Ryobi generator from Home Depot or one of the EU2000 generators from Honda, but it will be close to the limit and you won't be able to run really anything else. It also isn't good for the generator to be running more than about 50% load normally b/c then they get noisier and drink more fuel.
A better option would be something in the 3000 watt range. Honda of course is the gold standard, but anything with a decent Yamaha engine is also good. There is a pairing kit available for the Honda EU2000 as well as the Ryobi generators, so you can mate two of them for more flexibility of power and then they won't be running so close to the limit as they are sharing the load.
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Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined the gang! 
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