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Old 07-11-2016, 11:17 AM   #29
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8.5 gallons, must be a BIG oil pan.
Ours takes 14 gallons.
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:26 AM   #30
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So a lot of people's RVs say change it every year no matter what, and a recent poster says his DD vehicle's recommendation is change at 35k miles no matter how long that takes, which could take 5 years right? Go figure.
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Old 07-11-2016, 11:59 AM   #31
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What I would like to know is at 12 months with low miles and oil analysis done does the analysis say there are acids and moisture so you need to change oil or its all good to go for a longer time .Could somebody that has had analysis done chime in, let us know what's up with that if it one way or the other.
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:12 PM   #32
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Whom, of you who use extended oil change interval, are organic Chemists with a Mechanical engineering degree?

Until then, I will follow manufacturers guidance.

What is irresponsible is giving advice contrary to the manufacturer with no explanation of the additive package and its degradation due to use and time or references to to same.
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Old 07-11-2016, 12:46 PM   #33
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You need to pay extra for them to test TBN. This is the number that indicates the ability of the oil to neutralize combustion byproducts. It is an extra $10 at blackstone.
And use a oil with a high initial TBN value to start.

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Old 07-11-2016, 12:50 PM   #34
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What I would like to know is at 12 months with low miles and oil analysis done does the analysis say there are acids and moisture so you need to change oil or its all good to go for a longer time .Could somebody that has had analysis done chime in, let us know what's up with that if it one way or the other.
The way to do this is to use trend analysis. That is, at intervals of mileage or time you take regular samples. You plot these over the course of time/miles. The two numbers that talk about the additive package are TBN (Total Base Number) and TAN (Total Acid Number). TBN is a measure of the oils ability to neutralize acids. TAN is simply a measure of the oils acidity. When the two lines cross in your plot, the oils' additive package is depleted and you change the oil. This all make sense, money wise, if you're running a fleet of 150 tractors each with 12 gallons of oil and 12k miles per month. FWIW the base stock of oil is almost never used up unless burned.

For most of us instead of pulling a sample every month, at $40 a sample, it is easier and cheaper to simply follow the manufacturers recommendation of 12 months or 15k miles for my Cummins ISC with the updated oil filter. If you have a Cat follow their guidance. Sleep easy an don't worry about your oil.

In addition to my oil changes I also pull a sample of engine oil, transmission oil and engine coolant. The purpose of these is not to extend oil change interval, as that is specifically Not recommended by Cummins. I pull them to look for contaminates. Silica and wear metals in engine oil, same in the Allison except they do allow extended oil drain intervals with filter changes and a coolant sample to check for cross contaminants from the oil in the tranny or the engine due to oil cooler leaks. While these samples wont forecast catastrophic fail modes like a dropped valve, they will show air filtration issues with silicon traces and wear items like iron, aluminum and chrome. Copper will show if the tranny and engine coolers corroding. Coolant in either engine or tranny oil is bad.

I am neither a oil Chemist or a Mechanical Engineer. I have an Aeronautical/Astronautical Engineering B.S. Bob is the Oil guy tells you all you need to know about oil.
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:04 PM   #35
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oil cheep lns.

Mine is 19 quarts, once a year, 45+years diesel mechanic. Live your life your way, and I will be fine.:
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:59 PM   #36
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Our old gas coach we did change the oil every 3000 miles.
That sucker worked hard.
On the DP we change every 10,000 to 15,000 miles and thats about every year and a half to 2 years.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:01 PM   #37
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The only problem is when you run an engine there are blow by gasses and moisture build up that can contaminate your oil. Without running your engine for an extended period of time to heat the oil sufficiently the acids and moisture build up and cause more problems by attacking the bearings, cylinders, and other components.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:07 PM   #38
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While 5,000 miles is an easy number to remember, I don't have to remember anything. The Oil Life Monitor tells me when to change it. The only exception is if I am near the notification and I have a trip coming up.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:08 PM   #39
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Acid can't be as big a concern now right?
ULSD must make the formation almost impossible.
The Volvo manual has 3 different oil change intervals based on mileage(fuel burn in pounds)
the additive pac has acid inhibitors and all the other components that are neutralized at a known rate.
Changing every year is old school and wasteful ,but for peace of mind its not that expensive $220 or so at speedco for 12-14 gallons including filters.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:35 PM   #40
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Considering the $$$ I've got tied up in my coach ... I would consider the idea of trying to squeeze every bit of usable life out of my engine oil to be "penny wise and pound foolish". The engine documentation for the MaxxForce 10 (405 HP) engine in my coach states that the recommended oil change interval is 15,000 miles. I drove a hair over 10,000 miles in my first year of ownership. I'm not quibbling over a few miles. I'm on the "once a year" plan, regardless of mileage - and consider the potentially premature changing of the 7.5 gallons of engine oil to simply be an investment in the longevity of my coach motor.

This next coach oil change may include a move to synthetic. My passenger vehicles all use synthetic and get changed every 5,000 miles as well.
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Old 07-11-2016, 06:54 PM   #41
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I would use oil thats been on the shelf 6 or 7 years before i would leave oil in my engine 5 years.
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Old 07-12-2016, 03:15 AM   #42
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Hmmmm.... interesting subject..... dark oil is caused by carbon blow by in the pistons. This carbon wears down the "float bearings" in the cam's. Clean oil means low wear. So why would one change the engine oil unless there is enough carbon suspended in the oil to damage the bearings? The oil is a million years old, refining or distillation just takes part of the oil (weight/viscosity) that one needs. Oil doesn't change when it ages un-less contaminated by carbon or water. When you start the engine the water mosture is burned off, so that only leaves carbon contamination to be concerned about unless you are talking about marine engines, then we have to think about salt contamination. So, read you oil! if it turns black in 3k miles then you have a lot of blowby and need to change it more often than an engine that can last 5k miles with out changing. It is all in the piston ring wear! The only folks that recommend changing oil at 3k miles are the business that are involved with the Oil change industry. The vehicle manufacturers have extended their mileage recommendations on most vehicles to 7500k miles. So, I repeat, read your oil!!!!!
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