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Old 07-13-2016, 01:33 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barmcd View Post
I don't remember anyone but Jiffy Lube saying you needed to change oil at 3000 miles gas or diesel engine.
About Jiffy, I can't recommend that service since I was offered sub-par filter which in my opinion didn't meet the OEM standard.

As published in the 2006 Workhorse Gas Motor Home Chassis Guide ...

CHANGING THE OIL
Oil can be drained from the engine through the drain hole in the bottom of the oil pan.
Replacement oil is added through the fill tube at the top of the engine and near the radiator.
Generally, the recommended oil change interval every 3 months or 3,000 miles, whichever
comes first. More frequent intervals are recommended if any of the following severe operating
conditions are encountered:
Frequent long runs at high speeds and high ambient temperatures.
Operating in dusty areas.
Towing a trailer or tow vehicle.
Idling for extended periods and/or low-speed operation.
Operating when outside temperatures remain below freezing and when most trips are
less than 4 miles.

Refer to the Owner’s Manual for recommended change intervals.
Note:
Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the
engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add
marks.
Note:
You should consider the following fact when storing your motor home for long periods
of time, in excess of three months. Used engine oil contains harmful contaminates that has
the potential to pit and/or corrode engine bearings when exposed for longer periods of time.
It is also possible for condensation to collect in the oil pan area as well as the cylinder head
and piston/ring areas; engine failure could result due to water and acid contamination of the
oil. Therefore, it is important that the oil be changed before the motor home is put in storage
as well as after storage, if the motor home is stored for more than one season.

In regard to changing 7 quarts of oil, there is no financial burden. I changed my oil twice a year when I was going from show to show for Workhorse. I currently use M1 geriatric oil for engines over 75K miles. In regard to changing 32 quarts of oil, large truck fleets test their oil and they keep that oil until the reports come back as the oil needs to be changed.

IF an owner does not test their oil, replacing same using the OEM recommendation as a reference for annual changes is reasonable and prudent given the incredible cost of diesel engines and peripherals such as a turbo.


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Old 07-13-2016, 01:46 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mel s View Post
What is the proper way to live the lifestyle?
Maybe it's you who is not living it properly?
Hi Mel; I was light-heartedly trying to suggest that if you are putting a lot of miles on your rig in a year that you might not be taking an adequate amount of time to stop and smell the roses.

A number of the folks I know might only want to drive 200 miles a day and stay at least a couple of days and visit the area. At that rate, 5000 miles a year is a lot. Driving 15,000 miles a year, to me, seems like a lot of work and one may not have the opportunity to enjoy the RV lifestyle if you're on the road driving all the time.

Now that said, for some people the "Journey" is the destination so in that case each of us enjoys a unique RV lifestyle.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:28 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
I guess it's up to each individual to make the decision depending on their level of comfort.

I change annually, I never reach the mileage point first. Crankcase condensation from cool nights and warm days(in storage) cause anything not submerged in oil rust. Speedco charges $250 for oil N filter change, lube chassis,+ $59 for generator service. With the price of oil and filters and grease gun N grease; I'm not gonna crawl around under my MH and get another oil bath while removing the old oil filter_again.
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:13 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by DriVer View Post
some people the "Journey" is the destination so in that case each of us enjoys a unique RV lifestyle.
I agree.
Mel
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:08 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
Many years ago the standard for changing oil was 3000 miles, but back then the quality of the oil was not even close to what it is now. Oils used to have a lot of paraffin (wax) in the oil and it would build up in the engine. That was also the time when if you got 70,000 miles on a car you had better dump it because it wasn't going to last much longer.
Actually, Volkswagen recommended in their manual that the oil be changed on the "air cooled beetle" every 3k miles. I found that the oil turned black after about that many miles. I used these cars in my newspaper business for 35 years. Valves or transmission usually went out before the oil or bearings became a problem.

I know of no other modern car, 90's and newer, that recommends changing the oil at less than 7500 miles unless it is used in a taxi service where many hours of just idling are preformed. It is a "oil change industry" advertising ploy to make money. No different than the scammer that calls up on the phone to tell you that your computer has a viris.
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:19 AM   #62
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My daily drivers get oil every 3000 miles. Cheap insurance and good to do a once over on the rest of the car.
The Toys get done once a year.
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:16 AM   #63
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Everything gets an oil change every 3,000 miles, RV, cars, truck, and bikes. If it doesn't reach 3,000 it gets changed once a year anyway. Changing oil is cheaper than changing an engine.
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:28 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonfu View Post
Actually, Volkswagen recommended in their manual that the oil be changed on the "air cooled beetle" every 3k miles. I found that the oil turned black after about that many miles. I used these cars in my newspaper business for 35 years. Valves or transmission usually went out before the oil or bearings became a problem.

I know of no other modern car, 90's and newer, that recommends changing the oil at less than 7500 miles unless it is used in a taxi service where many hours of just idling are preformed. It is a "oil change industry" advertising ploy to make money. No different than the scammer that calls up on the phone to tell you that your computer has a viris.
Older VeeDubs are oil cooled as well as air cooled. There is an oil cooler inn the fan plenum above the #3 cylinder, as well as a finned crankcase. And those aluminum engines would go forever with fresh oil and valve adjustments.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:05 PM   #65
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Big Oil says motor oil shelf life is 5 years--google shelf life for motor oil and you'll find that Big Oil says that motor oil shelf life is at least 5 years. Given that Big Oil is saying this you know its probably much longer than that given their lack of credibility to begin with. So, I think its safe to say that you could go significantly longer than one year on low mileage oil changes. Caterpillar says 15,000 miles is the factory recommended distance between oil changes on my C-10 diesel engine. Thus I change its oil every two years or 10,000 miles which ever comes first. To change 34 quarts of oil annually just because 12 months have gone by, irrespecutful of miles accumulated, is wasteful and frankly, irresponsible.
Totally disagree on the changing oil thing. My owners manual says change oil every X amount of miles OR every six months- whichever comes first.
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Old 07-14-2016, 11:24 PM   #66
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About 15 years ago i worked with a guy that used to be in the oil industry. He claimed that there was an additive in the oil that turned it black after so many hot/cool cycles and it was done to try to convince people they needed to change their oil when they saw the blackened crap on the dipstick.

I have no idea if he was pulling my chain or not.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:05 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonfu View Post
Actually, Volkswagen recommended in their manual that the oil be changed on the "air cooled beetle" every 3k miles. I found that the oil turned black after about that many miles. I used these cars in my newspaper business for 35 years. Valves or transmission usually went out before the oil or bearings became a problem.
I believe that was when Volkswagen's didn't come standard with oil filters, just oil STRAINERS! The strainers caught the big chunks, but did nothing for the small particulate matter.
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Old 07-15-2016, 08:07 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim myers View Post
About 15 years ago i worked with a guy that used to be in the oil industry. He claimed that there was an additive in the oil that turned it black after so many hot/cool cycles and it was done to try to convince people they needed to change their oil when they saw the blackened crap on the dipstick.

I have no idea if he was pulling my chain or not.
That chain was wrapped all the way around your neck if you are repeating this!
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:02 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by Hit_the_Rhod View Post
That chain was wrapped all the way around your neck if you are repeating this!
Lol Yup, you can run a LP gas engine for a 100 hr in a tractor and the oil look like the day you put it in the engine.
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Old 07-15-2016, 10:15 AM   #70
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Originally Posted by C&SL View Post
Lol Yup, you can run a LP gas engine for a 100 hr in a tractor and the oil look like the day you put it in the engine.
Both the newer gas and diesel stay a lot cleaner since they don't get an excessive amount of fuel dumped in them.
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