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Old 04-07-2015, 09:34 AM   #15
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Lets consider this thread a lesson learned for my coach and I.

Once I understood what the multi-meter reading was supposed to be at various points, I played with switches and things to try and get it all working. Inside, I have a switch panel with a main and ac battery disconnect. What I didn't realize is if I hold that switch in when connected to shore power, I hear the solenoid click in the engine bay. Low and behold, 13.34v at the battery. When I turn off the ac switch, the solenoid clicks and I'm back to 12.8v.

Where my assumption was incorrect is that there is a little red LED light under that switch. When boondocking, the LED illuminates if I'm using battery. When on shore power, the LED is always illuminated. I assumed that illuminated ment power to the 12v circuits. But I still need to switch the AUX switch to the on position to charge.

Now I'm just waiting to see if the battery charges and then switches over to the main battery for charging. Thanks everyone for bearing with me on this. I learned a ton about the charging system and I have a feeling those original wires I found might have been after market for a winter trickle charger or something. I've removed them to save myself confusion.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:52 AM   #16
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Something to check...

You said holdinf in while on shore power...

A friend with a southwind had intermittent battery control.

He had issues with the battery connect and disconnect system.

First off his and maybe yours use what is called a magnalatch relay.

A pulse pulls it and magnet holds it.

Pulse in another coil counters the magnet to release.

Power for this was sourced from cabin batteries which in his case were roasted by the converter and dried out having the capacity of a AAA battery.

You flashed the cabin battery with 12 volts and it worked.

We later determined to use the boost switch to sllow it to work.

Problem is boost is on dash and battery switches above door.

Anywho...check the condition of your cabin batteries as the battery controls do not need shore power to operate.
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Old 04-10-2015, 10:43 AM   #17
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I strongly suggest a call to the manufacturer. I fought this same problem for a while, and finally decided to call Thor. For some strange reason, they put a single breaker away from any of the other breakers or inverter equipment, under the bed. It's a tiny little thing, and I would have never found it had I not called them.

When this little breaker is in fault, I can charge from the generator, but not from shore power.
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Old 04-11-2015, 08:45 AM   #18
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We experienced this problem on our fiver...The converter had two in line fuses that blew in a power surge. What a pain to get to: We're located in the crawl space of the basement.


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Old 04-11-2015, 12:40 PM   #19
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Charging the house batteries

I notice you are using the word inverter and converter interchangeably. An inverter takes 12v DC to 120v AC. A converter takes 120v AC to 12v DC and provides enough extra current to charge batteries.

A simple test to see if your converter is working is to see if you have 12v lights when plugged in. If you do converter is working.

Some converters are cheap, some are not. A good 3 phase converter will lengthen the service life of your coach batteries, less water etc. converters are usually plugged into a fused 120v circuit or hard wired. The wires from the converter to batteries are heavy gauge, direct with a fuse near the battery.

The generator should via a transfer switch provide 120 to the fuse panel.

The aux button simply adds the power of the chassis batteries to the starter battery to provide extra amps for starting. You also have the coach battery cutoff switch, solenoid that you hear clicking, and many older motorhome have a manual cutoff switch under the hood to kill all 12v power.

To test the aux switch start your engine and push the switch. You should hear a significant increase in starter speed.
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Old 04-11-2015, 01:10 PM   #20
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I notice you are using 3 phase, while talking about converters. It is 3 stage. Some are 4 stage.


Your simple test will not work if there is a battery involved, the light will work, with the battery
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Old 04-11-2015, 01:20 PM   #21
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Every time I read your question I see something new.

Basically your motorhome has two 12v systems, one coach and one chassis.

The coach system is isolated from the chassis except when the aux button on the "dash" is pushed to assist in engine start. The other exception is when the engine is runing the alternator charges the coach batteries, TOO.

The BCC controls the motorhomes batteries. Old one didn't have it new one does. If u have no 12v in the coach and coach batteries are charged and "use" button pushed there is a reset button in the BCC.

I haven't looked at the wiring diagram for a BCC. But I imagine your problem might be there. Get the make and model, google it for the manual and trouble shooting should find your answer.
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Old 04-11-2015, 01:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
I notice you are using 3 phase, while talking about converters. It is 3 stage. Some are 4 stage.


Your simple test will not work if there is a battery involved, the light will work, with the battery

I'm so confused!!!!
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Old 04-11-2015, 02:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbieH View Post
I strongly suggest a call to the manufacturer. I fought this same problem for a while, and finally decided to call Thor. For some strange reason, they put a single breaker away from any of the other breakers or inverter equipment, under the bed. It's a tiny little thing, and I would have never found it had I not called them.

When this little breaker is in fault, I can charge from the generator, but not from shore power.

I'm curious - is this the factory set up with the fresh water pump and wiring so close to each other? (Photo in post 17)
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Old 04-12-2015, 12:04 PM   #24
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This is the factory setup. I haven't had the RV in my possession long enough to make any changes.
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