Concrete pad

[H. Miller]

We are contemplating a concrete MH pad.... 30' wide X 45' long. As the Beaver grosses at 32,000 lbs. what considerations should we be looking at?
Depth? size rebar? How much rebar? Etc.?

Thanks

[fire58p12]

WhenI was building up a pad for another project I called the local concrete company and spoke with them and gave them all the particulars. They were quite helpful. You may need a building permit in your jurisdiction so check that out too. The building inspector can tell you what he wants. There is soe newer concrete mixes out there that mix in fiberglass or something that increases the strength and supposed to do away with re-bar. You might want to ask about that too. We built onto our driveway a parking area for my in-laws MH and even included full hook-ups for her including a sewer dump. it was new construction so it was relatively cheap to put in. The contractor figured out the needs there though so I can't help much more. good luck.

[gripper]

H. Miller,

Recently, I did just what you are contemplating. I poured it myself and decided to use the fiberglass, instead of re-bars. The pad is 6" thick and holds my 39', 32,000 lb. RV just fine. However......when you decide to park on the new pad, do not put your jacks down! If you do, you will crack the concrete, just like I did! You could possibly wait a month or two, for the concrete to totally cure but even then, I would use 2"X6" boards, spread across the pad and under both jacks (front & rear), to distribute the weight (I do that now). I learned this the hard way and was actually sick to my stomach when I heard the concrete crack.

Gripper (Roland)

[two-niner]

Just a suggestion.
You MAY need footers on all sides of the slab. And rebar in the footers.
When you drive on the slab the edge absorbs moment (momentum) and will distribute the kenetic energy throughout the pad.
If you skimp, in a few years there may be (many) cracks. And if you do get a crack, seal it immediately or water will further weaken the concrete.
Follow your building inspector's tips. He's only allowed to tell you what code is.
Actually the concrete man should give you good advice.

Kerry

[Lued]

I went with the rebar and the fiber mesh, no problems, 5 yrs no cracks. Good luck

[Whaler]

You need to answer some questions first,where do you live,frost line needs to be guesstamated.Why 30 feet wide,what is going on the other 20 feet of pad width? Need more facts!

[dajudge]

I would recommend a six inch thick slab, with concrete reinforcing wire it it. Pour a 12 by 18 inch footing all around with at least two 1/2 inch rebar all around. Use heavy dutyconcrete, five bag mix. Do not let them talk you into the weaker concrete and do not use concrete with the fiberglass fivers only. I did mine 10 years ago and don't have even a hairling crack.

[two-niner]

dajudge is correct.

Kerry

[bldrbob]

You might also consider a thickened slab and rebar where the jacks will be located.
BOB

[Bill Adams]

You really don't want to guess here. You should contact the concrete company and let them know exactly what your plans are. I would also check with the local building inspector to ensure that you do it right the first time and do not run afoul of the local rules and regulations. Your local freeze/thaw parameters will determine how deep, how much and what type of reinforcement as well as the type of concrete poured.

[H. Miller]

Thanks for the suggestions folks. We are out in the country on acreage so no building insp. but will check with the cement company as to their suggestions then compare them to the contractors. The edge footing (at least at the driveway side) is a very good idea.
Whaler, as the "signature" area has a limited space, most of us put additional info in other areas. Mine can be found by clicking on H.Miller and then "personal info"

[StStg1]

Bill Adams is correct. We poured our slab next to our driveway in '04. We let the professionals determine the thichness and the materials to be used. They pulled a permit to start and then did the work. So far, 6 years later, no cracks and still parking our TT there.

[85Eagle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dajudge I would recommend a six inch thick slab, with concrete reinforcing wire it it. Pour a 12 by 18 inch footing all around with at least two 1/2 inch rebar all around. Use heavy duty concrete. Do not let them talk you into the weaker concrete and do not use concrete with the fiberglass fibers only. I did mine 10 years ago and don't have even a hairline crack.

I had mine poured 15 years ago with the above directions and had expansion joints every 8 Ft and no cracks after 15 years and my rig weights in at 38000Lbs.

[H. Miller]

Complete!
I now believe that time spent checking out the contractor is as important (maybe more so) than all the numbers. Ours pours 4-6 high end home foundations per week. Armed with all my new found knowledge gained from above, he had positive answers to all my questions and suggestions.
5 bag mix - 6 mil plastic between earth & concrete - rebar everywhere with 15" spacing - 12" wide footing around the entire pad - 3 hours use of the propeller looking machine that smooths the top (sweeping will be easy) and most interesting, they dug 16" deep trenches at 15' intervals (front to rear and side to side). The 2 side to side are under the front jack/wheel area and the rear axle. Do plan on 2X12" about 4' long under the jacks.
****What would you use under the tires as a moisture barrier?******
The garage is next!!