Confused about tank size needed on compressor for winterizing

[tnedator]

I've read a bunch of threads about winterizing with a compressor. Most have as many posts with people saying they use antifreeze than are actually talking about what's needed for air.

I live in Arkansas, so plan to winterize multiple times throughout the year, since it's not uncommon to have 60+ degree weekends in the middle of winter, but might be 25 the next weekend. Hence, I plan to go the air route. If we have one of those strange winters where we are forecast to have a week or more in the teens, than I might throw some pink stuff in for belts/suspenders.

So, my question is what exactly is needed in terms of tank size? I see compressors talking about CFM, but I'm not sure where the compressor CFM vs. tank size come into play on the volume needed to flush out the lines.

I'm trying to figure out if a 6 gallon pancake will cover both my tire airing needs and winterizing, or if i need something like a 12 or 20 gallon compressor, and then get a small viaair compressor for keeping in the RV just for tires?

It will be on a Thor ACE 30.3 if that comes into play?

[RichR]

Small six gallon works for- it's the air flow that works, high pressure can cause damage.

[tnedator]

Originally Posted by RichR

Small six gallon works for- it's the air flow that works, high pressure can cause damage.

In some of the threads I've read, even though they might have only been talking 30 PSI, they said that 6 gallons wasn't enough volume to make sure the lines were completely full of air.

Since I thought the process was to close all faucets and open them one at a time (and I would assume close them afterwards) you wouldn't need much volume. If on the other hand, you are leaving all faucets open and want to maintain 30 PSI, that's a lot of air volume.

[nosticks]

Six gal. been using it for years. Just keep pressure being delivered to the lines around 30 psi.

[Sweetbriar]

6 gallons also an no problems. Throttling down pressure to 30 PSI from 120 PSI helps with a compressor of marginal volume.

[Winemaker2]

My compressor has NO tank and works fine on boat and MH water systems.
Just set pressure at 30-40 PSI and connect to the water inlet...let compressor run and open faucets one ar a time H&C both.
Then drain water heater.

[tnedator]

Thanks guys. I just ordered a 6 gallon Bostich pancake.

[xrated]

Just remember the MOST IMPORTANT part of doing it with a compressor.....Turn the air pressure down to approx. 30 PSI.....using the regulator on the compressor. If you leave it set too high, you will most likely blow fittings apart inside the RV.

[OLYLEN]

Why do most limit to 30# ? Most park water systems are 50-60# and some much higher. I have been using 50# for years on many different RVs with no problem. As to tank size, as you blow out the system the coach itself become more tank, I do use a 6 gallon. Still put the pink in the traps and the black and gray tank and if you have a cloths washer doit also with a bit of pink. Another point if the freeze is just over night and the day time up to 40 I don't winterize, but if overnight drops below 25 for several hours I do. Another tip don't forget to blow out low point drains

LEN

[tnedator]

Originally Posted by OLYLEN

Why do most limit to 30# ? Most park water systems are 50-60# and some much higher. I have been using 50# for years on many different RVs with no problem. As to tank size, as you blow out the system the coach itself become more tank, I do use a 6 gallon. Still put the pink in the traps and the black and gray tank and if you have a cloths washer doit also with a bit of pink. Another point if the freeze is just over night and the day time up to 40 I don't winterize, but if overnight drops below 25 for several hours I do. Another tip don't forget to blow out low point drains

LEN

Thanks, I would not have thought to blow out low point drains.

[Chuck_Hammer]

yes 30psi,, every outlet.. if you have an outside shower.. that also will freeze.

I purchased my trailer used... it only leaked if I turned outside shower ON.. then leaked inside wall and into living room, but still worked outside..

Surprise

if there is NO water in lines.. nothing to Freeze..

[Stealth01]

Originally Posted by Chuck_Hammer

yes 30psi,, every outlet.. if you have an outside shower.. that also will freeze.

I purchased my trailer used... it only leaked if I turned outside shower ON.. then leaked inside wall and into living room, but still worked outside..

Surprise

if there is NO water in lines.. nothing to Freeze..

Blowing out the lines is NOT guaranteed to protect your RV. If enough residual moisture gathers in a low point it can freeze and break a fitting... Don't ask me how I know... If you're winterizing add the pink stuff... It's the ONLY way to be SURE your rig is protected!!

[Gary RVRoamer]

Why do most limit to 30# ? Most park water systems are 50-60# and some much higher.

Most small compressors have a greater air flow (cfm) at lower pressures than high, and 30# is plenty to force the water out of the lines. Sure you can use more psi if you like, but air volume is what is important, not pressure.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Blowing out the lines is NOT guaranteed to protect your RV. If enough residual moisture gathers in a low point it can freeze and break a fitting... Don't ask me how I know... If you're winterizing add the pink stuff... It's the ONLY way to be SURE your rig is protected!!

I have to disagree. Whether you use antifreeze or the blowout method, it has to be done properly or you can leave residual water somewhere. Failure to do a thorough job is likely to result in problems no matter what technique is used. With either method, you have to force the air or the pink stuff to every part of the plumbing system. If you don't, all bets are off.