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Old 12-15-2019, 08:56 PM   #1
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Converter/Inverter Doubt

Hi, I am new to RVing and recently had my first major issue to resolve.

My class C RV uses 2 deep cycle batteries (they are still good) which I noticed were not charging on my last trip. When I got back home, I took the batteries out to inspect the converter (Intel 9100 45 amp) and the tip of the positive terminal was melted where it connects to the converter. I removed the cable, cut the melted part off and when I tried to connect it back to the converter found out the screw will not tighten anymore and there is no way for me to service the converter since I would have to remove all the rivets in order to open it (rather not try my luck). A friend of mine tested it with a Voltmeter (we plugged it to shore power) and he said power was oscillating and could not confirm if it was working properly. To make things simpler, I decided to replace it and noticed a big price difference between a 30 amp and 45 amp converter. I am curious to know if I can downgrade to a 30 amp converter and I'd like to add that my RV uses a Cen-tech (1500watt continuous/3000watt peak) inverter. Not sure there is any other relevant information I need to provide in order to find out where to go from here. If anybody can shed some light on this subject, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:07 AM   #2
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If you want quicker charging while dry camping, the 45 amp converter will help do that.

Otherwise, as long as you don't turn 12 volt stuff on that exceeds 30 amps, while on shore power, the 30 amp will keep the batteries charged. If you draw more then 30 amps with 12 volt stuff, you'll be drawing from your batteries even with shore or generator power.

To draw 30 amps at 12 volts DC, you would need lots of stuff on at the same time. Heat, all lights, water pump and a few fans.

The inverter shouldn't draw any power from the batteries while on shore or generator power. That should only use 12 volt power while dry camping.
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Old 12-16-2019, 03:22 AM   #3
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28 dollars difference on Amazon. Get the 45 amp. Keep your capacity.

Good luck!
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Old 12-16-2019, 03:28 PM   #4
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You have somewhere between 210 and 230 AH of battery bank. The recommended charger capacity for that amount of AH is about 50-70 amps, so I'd stick with 45 as a minimum. You can get buy with 30, though, if the savings are worth it.


The battery amp-hour capacity is referred to as "C". The recommended charger is C/3 or C/4. 210/3 = 70 amps and 210/4 = 52.5 amps.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:46 PM   #5
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Thank you for getting back to me.


I forgot to mention my RV has a fairly simple set up. Mini 110v fridge, a/c, water heater + water pump. Aside those items, I only have about 8 lights on the inside and only use basic appliances such as 2 mini fans, coffee maker (700watts), toaster (700watts), and for bigger meals I use an electric skillet (1200watts). I never use my kitchen appliances together to avoid an overload.

That being said, do you think I'd be ok with the 30amp converter? I have the impression that I would but rather not buy anything until I am convinced it will be ok.

For last, I usually try to go camping where shore power is available and my camping trips are usually 2-3 day trips.

Thanks again,
Peter


Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
If you want quicker charging while dry camping, the 45 amp converter will help do that.

Otherwise, as long as you don't turn 12 volt stuff on that exceeds 30 amps, while on shore power, the 30 amp will keep the batteries charged. If you draw more then 30 amps with 12 volt stuff, you'll be drawing from your batteries even with shore or generator power.

To draw 30 amps at 12 volts DC, you would need lots of stuff on at the same time. Heat, all lights, water pump and a few fans.

The inverter shouldn't draw any power from the batteries while on shore or generator power. That should only use 12 volt power while dry camping.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:50 PM   #6
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Thanks for the information.

For the PD 9100 series converters, the difference is a bit higher (twice as much). Therefore a 30amp is $100 and 45amp $190 so I've been questioning myself if having the additional 15amps is really necessary for my scenario.

Peter


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28 dollars difference on Amazon. Get the 45 amp. Keep your capacity.

Good luck!
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:01 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info.

My RV is fairly simple and I usually have relatively few items turned on at once (max would be something like 2 fans + 8 lights + mini 110v refrigerator + a toaster (700 watts).

Not sure if this would get me too close to the 30amp limit.

Thanks again for the help.

Peter



Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
You have somewhere between 210 and 230 AH of battery bank. The recommended charger capacity for that amount of AH is about 50-70 amps, so I'd stick with 45 as a minimum. You can get buy with 30, though, if the savings are worth it.


The battery amp-hour capacity is referred to as "C". The recommended charger is C/3 or C/4. 210/3 = 70 amps and 210/4 = 52.5 amps.
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:08 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter C. View Post
Thank you for getting back to me.


I forgot to mention my RV has a fairly simple set up. Mini 110v fridge, a/c, water heater + water pump. Aside those items, I only have about 8 lights on the inside and only use basic appliances such as 2 mini fans, coffee maker (700watts), toaster (700watts), and for bigger meals I use an electric skillet (1200watts). I never use my kitchen appliances together to avoid an overload.
Coffee maker 6-8 amps
Skillet 6 -12 amps
Toaster 7-10 amps
AC depending on size 12 - 16 amps
Water heater on electric 9-13 amps
Refer in ac mode 5-8 amps

I get you never use them together, but hot water, fridge and ac at their minimums nearly max you out.

Your call, but I would keep it at 45 amps.

Good luck
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:56 PM   #9
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Yes, might make sense to keep it at 45 amps. If I actually use a 30amp converter and end up using multiple items at once that exceed the 30amp limit, aside slowly depleting my batteries, do I run the risk of having any type of electrical issues (melting wires, tripping breakers, etc)?

Thanks and have a great week.

Peter



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Coffee maker 6-8 amps
Skillet 6 -12 amps
Toaster 7-10 amps
AC depending on size 12 - 16 amps
Water heater on electric 9-13 amps
Refer in ac mode 5-8 amps

I get you never use them together, but hot water, fridge and ac at their minimums nearly max you out.

Your call, but I would keep it at 45 amps.

Good luck
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Old 12-17-2019, 05:24 AM   #10
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ICoffee maker 6-8 amps

Skillet 6 -12 amps

Toaster 7-10 amps

AC depending on size 12 - 16 amps

Water heater on electric 9-13 amps

Refer in ac mode 5-8 amps


Everything on the above list is 120 volt items. None of this has any bearing on the 12 volt converter/charger.

The converter/charger only needs to cover the 12 volt items, fans, lights, pump..... and battery charging.

Don't confuse shore power, plug in 120 volt items, with battery powered 12 volt devices.

No 120 volt items run thru the converter/charger. It IS a 120 volt shore power device.
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Old 12-17-2019, 08:34 AM   #11
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30 amp will limit the total electrical capacity if his rv while on shore power.
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:01 PM   #12
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What would happen when I am not using shore power and need to use these items through my inverter, does the Converter Amp capacity come into play for these cases? Thanks
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Old 12-17-2019, 03:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redapple View Post
30 amp will limit the total electrical capacity if his rv while on shore power.
Why are you talking about 30 amp shore power when the OP is asking about a 30 amp converter? I don't think we have any idea what his shore power capacity is. 30 amp converter and 30 amp shore power are two different things.
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Old 12-17-2019, 04:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter C. View Post
What would happen when I am not using shore power and need to use these items through my inverter, does the Converter Amp capacity come into play for these cases? Thanks
No, the converter only comes into play when on shore power or generator power. It only powers 12 volt stuff.

The inverter will power some of the 120 volt stuff

You can not run the converter on inverter power. That will just run the batteries down fast.

You will also run the batteries down real fast trying to run the air conditioning. Maybe 1 to 2 hours before needing recharge.
Its a rare RV that can run ACs in batteries.
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