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Old 12-12-2011, 08:26 PM   #15
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Isn't anyone going to mention the difference in the wiring itself from the incoming receptacle to the paanel? To get the dual leg 50 amp benefits you'd also need to change that wiring to 4 wire from 3 wire.

30 amp 115 v service: 1 green ground wire, 1 white neutral wire and 1 black positive 115v feed wire.

50 amp 115/240 v service: 1 green ground wire, 1 white neutral wire, 1 black positive 115v positive feed wirte, 1 red 115v positive feed wire.

This is if you're going for the full magilla 230v service with separate legs.

The benefits of 50 single leg service would be fairly simple to duplicate with running that separate 20 amp extension to another small service box with a single breaker and dedicated to your washing machine, microwave or another motor driven appliance such as a second roof A/C.

I would prefer to have that line come into a totally separate service box so they aren't sharing a neutral in the rig but back at the park's service feed pedestal instead. That's just me being finicky though.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:51 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bstark View Post
Isn't anyone going to mention the difference in the wiring itself from the incoming receptacle to the paanel? To get the dual leg 50 amp benefits you'd also need to change that wiring to 4 wire from 3 wire.

30 amp 115 v service: 1 green ground wire, 1 white neutral wire and 1 black positive 115v feed wire.

50 amp 115/240 v service: 1 green ground wire, 1 white neutral wire, 1 black positive 115v positive feed wirte, 1 red 115v positive feed wire.

This is if you're going for the full magilla 230v service with separate legs.

The benefits of 50 single leg service would be fairly simple to duplicate with running that separate 20 amp extension to another small service box with a single breaker and dedicated to your washing machine, microwave or another motor driven appliance such as a second roof A/C.

I would prefer to have that line come into a totally separate service box so they aren't sharing a neutral in the rig but back at the park's service feed pedestal instead. That's just me being finicky though.
Not only do you require 4 wires instead of 3, but they are bigger wires, too. Between the wire coming into the coach and the load center will require a new cable. While a second circuit for the second air conditioner would be sufficient, would it handle the rest of the load in the RV?
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Old 12-12-2011, 09:31 PM   #17
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I found that the easiest thing for me to do was buy a 50Amp extension cord and cut the female end off, then use that for power cord. That way I had a molded male plug.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:11 PM   #18
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I bought a 50amp extension cord today for my 30amp motorhome. Need to upgrade because want to run both roof air conditioners at once. It is a Texas summer kind of thing........ron
If the main breaker in your service panel is 30A, nothing else matters, 30A is all that is available for use.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:26 PM   #19
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A Newbie here (2000 Itasca 35U)...

The current shore line cable is a 30Amp cable, it has a 50Amp Generator which means it has a 50Amp bus and inverter. The transfer switch is rated at 50Amp's. Is there any reason not to change the shore line to a 50Amp cable? ... Or is there more to this than I think?

Any ideas!

Thanks!

John
Are you sure you have a 12,000 watt generator? That is what is required to provide "50A"RV service.
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:30 AM   #20
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If you now have the Intellitec power manager (Winnie sometimes labels it "Powerline"), you need to upgrade it to the 50A model. That model checks the incoming power for 50A vs 30A and turns itself off when 50A service is available. Otherwise it would always limit consumption to 30A, which sort of defeats the purpose of the 50A upgrade. The 50A model can also determine if the generator is operating and shut itself off.

You also need to think about how much power your generator puts out and how it is wired into the system. Most 30A coaches have a generator that is larger than 30A (3600 watts) and have an alternate path to support a second a/c unit. If you upgrade to 50A, you may want to wire it differently.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RVRoamer View Post
If you now have the Intellitec power manager (Winnie sometimes labels it "Powerline"), you need to upgrade it to the 50A model. That model checks the incoming power for 50A vs 30A and turns itself off when 50A service is available. Otherwise it would always limit consumption to 30A, which sort of defeats the purpose of the 50A upgrade. The 50A model can also determine if the generator is operating and shut itself off.

You also need to think about how much power your generator puts out and how it is wired into the system. Most 30A coaches have a generator that is larger than 30A (3600 watts) and have an alternate path to support a second a/c unit. If you upgrade to 50A, you may want to wire it differently.
When I upgraded my Suncruiser, all of the components were rated at 50 amps. All I needed was a new cable between the transfer switch and load center, a new 50 amp breaker in the load center, and a new cable. Like a previous poster, I bought an extension cord and cut the female end off. The was a whole lot of rewiring involved, though.
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:03 PM   #22
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Depends a lot on what type of controls you have. On my Winnebago, I have the Intelletec panel with load sheading capabilities. When I connect my 50 amp cable to a 30 amp shore power, the panel will recognize to 30 amp and shed loads to keep the current under 30 amp. When on 50 amp, I can't use enough power to overload it.
That's because on 30 amps you have 3,600 watts available, on 50 amp you have 12,000 watts available.
120V X 30 amps = 3,600 watts
120V X 50 amps X 2 (two hot leads) = 12,000 watts
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