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Old 01-22-2015, 08:47 AM   #1
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converting from 20 amp to 50 amp

dear r.v. buddies,
i have a 2004 class a 38 ft gas powered pace arrow, that has a 30 amp shed system. my question is can it be upgraded to a 50 amp system, and the pro's and con's and cost of doing this. i live in Louisiana and in the summer running both air conditioners and trying to use anything else causes some breakers to kick. any knowledge or information on this subject will be very helpful.
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Old 01-22-2015, 08:59 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Jimdel41 View Post
dear r.v. buddies,
i have a 2004 class a 38 ft gas powered pace arrow, that has a 30 amp shed system. my question is can it be upgraded to a 50 amp system, and the pro's and con's and cost of doing this. i live in Louisiana and in the summer running both air conditioners and trying to use anything else causes some breakers to kick. any knowledge or information on this subject will be very helpful.
Jimdel41
It can be done but it will not be easy... or inexpensive.
A less expensive alternative is to wire one of the roof top A/Cs to 12/3 cord that can be plugged into a 20 amp campground pedestal receptacle while the rest of the coach runs on 30 amps via the 30 amp cord/receptacle.
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:30 AM   #3
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Mel has a viable and affordable solution. You would have two cables from the coach to the post, but that is of little consequence when trying to stay cool in the southern heat and humidity
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Old 01-22-2015, 09:44 AM   #4
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Mel is correct. My Itasca has been modified to use a separate cord to run the rear A/C, but it shares the neutral with the 30 amp cable. This causes a GFCI to trip if I plug into the one in the campground pedestal. I haven't dug into it to see if I can separate the neutrals.


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Old 01-22-2015, 09:52 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jimdel41 View Post
dear r.v. buddies,
i have a 2004 class a 38 ft gas powered pace arrow, that has a 30 amp shed system. my question is can it be upgraded to a 50 amp system, and the pro's and con's and cost of doing this. i live in Louisiana and in the summer running both air conditioners and trying to use anything else causes some breakers to kick. any knowledge or information on this subject will be very helpful.
Jim, I went through this same scenario when I first bought my 2003 32' with 2 a/c units on the shed system (30 amp). It wasn't until 2 years later I realized my rear A/C had slowly been fan motor going out and was pulling more than normal load, which before I got the Progressive Industries EMC that would cut off power when the voltage gets too low, I had trouble with breakers, etc.

My shed system works excellent in the 110 heat in the summer, my coach is smaller than yours, but has 2 A/C units, a 15K in front and 8K in back and now that I replaced the bad fan motor in the rear AC, it makes a lot of difference.

I also found that the front AC, while running the generator, runs off the second circuit breaker switch on the generator, and so I keep both switches on while in summer running the genny.

I hope this might help you. Also, when going to a CG or other facility, make sure if they have 50 amp at the pole you get a pigtail that you can plug your 30 amp plug into the 50 amp CG plugin, because you will be getting more voltage/amps up to that CG plug on the 50 during high summer A/C usage than the 30.

Keep us posted either way!

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Old 01-22-2015, 10:59 AM   #6
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With the energy management system in place it may be difficult.

Others have mentioned adding a cord and I will add a modification of that.

If your cord is plug in at mh end this is easier.

And this assumes you can get one ac power source isolated like the old days where you had the switch to select which ac operated on shore power.

And it assumes the unit is isolated form the rest.

If not you may need to get creative to bring the feed line to cable entry.

You use a 50 amp shore cord that has the L1 side wired to your 30 amp connection and L2 side wired to the second ac.

If you are plug in at mh end you could have both stock and added connector for the 50 amp cord but a switch would need to be added as you would have hot exposed pins on unused connector.

Thi would require domeone who knows what they are doing to install but not difficult if the configuration of the mh allows it.
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Old 01-22-2015, 03:47 PM   #7
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basically you replace the shore cord, Any "Inlets" (if the shore cord is detachable) The Auto Transfer switch (if so equipped) the Load shedder,, The power distribution center (Which may include the converter, or not) and you may need to work on the generator some (re-wire should do that if it's over 5KW).

Sounds easy.. till you start doing it

Oh, and if you have a Surge Protector like the HW-30C.. Upgarde that too (If not put in a HW-50C while you are upgrading)

Should be able to drop a kilo-buck on the counter and get change back if you do it yourself.
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