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Old 12-17-2011, 08:03 AM   #15
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Wrap your wrench with elect. tape, or srink wrap all but the jaws. Remove rings and watch. Don,t drop metel frame glasses on to the batterys. Where old clothes, safety glasses.
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:05 AM   #16
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A Little Clarification...

Thanks for all the help, guys...

Dave,

By cross-connect leads do you mean the battery to battery connections?

I know this may blow some minds (It did mine but simple minds are easily amazed) but I have a very nice cable going from the positive on one battery to the negative on the battery that is feeding the equalizer. I asked a friend that has some experience in 24v systems and he said that is proper even though he can't explain why. Any idea how to remove and install that lead? Or is that what you meant by "cross-connect"?

Thanks a again for your help. I am glad I have a few weeks to work all of this out in my mind...

DKO
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:06 AM   #17
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by rgvtexan View Post
Wrap your wrench with elect. tape, or srink wrap all but the jaws. Remove rings and watch. Don,t drop metel frame glasses on to the batterys. Where old clothes, safety glasses.
All good advice...

DKO
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Old 12-17-2011, 08:50 AM   #18
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Yes - cables going from negative to positive posts on a series battery connection (i.e: two 12 VDC batteries connected in series to make 24VDC). Or, negative to negative / positive to positive; parrallel connection used to increase amperage (AH) but maintian same voltage.
I am not familure with 24VDC systems so not sure what you mean by equalizer. I am off to do x-mas shopping so if you reply my response will be later today.

D
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:05 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief View Post
Yes - cables going from negative to positive posts on a series battery connection (i.e: two 12 VDC batteries connected in series to make 24VDC). Or, negative to negative / positive to positive; parrallel connection used to increase amperage (AH) but maintian same voltage.
I am not familure with 24VDC systems so not sure what you mean by equalizer. I am off to do x-mas shopping so if you reply my response will be later today.

D
I have four chassis batteries. They feed the equalizer that in turn distributes 24v where needed (Starter, various relays and maybe other things) and 12v where needed (Running lights, head lights and such.) It is mounted directly above my batteries in the engine compartment. I have a disconnect switch for both 24v and 12v.

The equalizer is one of the reasons I on here asking questions. it is just one more thing that I do NOT want to burn up.

I am definitely in the baby steps of learning about this...

Have fun shopping...

DKO
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Old 12-17-2011, 09:58 AM   #20
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You've gotten great advice. When removing the wires from our batteries, I tie all of the leads that go on one post together with binder's twine. That way, there is no confusion about what goes where. There is never more than one piece of twine open at one time. The cross connect wire can be handled separately.

I'd also recommend cleaning each and every surface on the lugs. You will never position the wires exactly as they were and a little build up on one of the lugs can insulate it and cause you fits after you put everything back together. It doesn't take long to wire brush tops and bottoms, examining each surface as you go. I recommend a mask while you are doing it. My paranoia causes me to double check the tightness of each lug on its wire as I go. A wire could be slipping out of its lug, already have corrosion built up inside and you might not catch it.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:14 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKO

I have four chassis batteries. They feed the equalizer that in turn distributes 24v where needed (Starter, various relays and maybe other things) and 12v where needed (Running lights, head lights and such.) It is mounted directly above my batteries in the engine compartment. I have a disconnect switch for both 24v and 12v.

The equalizer is one of the reasons I on here asking questions. it is just one more thing that I do NOT want to burn up.

I am definitely in the baby steps of learning about this...

Have fun shopping...

DKO
I am also confused, you have 12v batteries connected in series to get 24v? I didn't know an rv would have any 24v circuits. I also don't know what is an equalizer?
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:16 AM   #22
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Are you sure your batteries are 12v? Could they be 6v batteries?
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:25 AM   #23
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Quote:
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I am also confused, you have 12v batteries connected in series to get 24v? I didn't know an rv would have any 24v circuits. I also don't know what is an equalizer?

Yes, four 12v batteries. Pretty standard in big trucks and buses that need 24v to start. They are group 31 batteries, specifically Interstate Workaholic 31 MHD batteries with 950CCA. Google will tell you all about them.

As I said, "They feed the equalizer that in turn distributes 24v where needed (Starter, various relays and maybe other things) and 12v where needed (Running lights, head lights and such.) It is mounted directly above my batteries in the engine compartment. I have a disconnect switch for both 24v and 12v."

I don't blame you for asking for clarification. I sure didn't know any of this 4 years ago.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:31 AM   #24
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For those of you that have DP's, many diesel engines we had in our equipment (heavy construction) used a 24v system for starting, and 12v for all lights, turn signals, heaters etc. Very common when I use to have to work for a living.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:00 PM   #25
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As already recommended old clothes cause the battery acjd will turn them old fast.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:39 PM   #26
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Thank you

I sure appreciate everybody chiming in with information and helpful advice. If any one else has anything that has been overlooked please feel free to express yourself. I always need the help.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:41 PM   #27
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After posting I took a look see at your equipment, and then I googled it. WOW! Some nice ride, I did not know just how much power those things required. I thought my 40 ft Holiday Rambler was complex, nothing compared to yours. We both have lots to learn.
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasfm11 View Post
You've gotten great advice. When removing the wires from our batteries, I tie all of the leads that go on one post together with binder's twine. That way, there is no confusion about what goes where. There is never more than one piece of twine open at one time. The cross connect wire can be handled separately.

I'd also recommend cleaning each and every surface on the lugs. You will never position the wires exactly as they were and a little build up on one of the lugs can insulate it and cause you fits after you put everything back together. It doesn't take long to wire brush tops and bottoms, examining each surface as you go. I recommend a mask while you are doing it. My paranoia causes me to double check the tightness of each lug on its wire as I go. A wire could be slipping out of its lug, already have corrosion built up inside and you might not catch it.
I use electrical cable ties to keep all cables together for each terminal. Easy to tie together and just cut it off when reattaching to post. Also can color code each terminal with different color ties.
CarlGeo
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