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12-17-2011, 07:03 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: E WA or S TX
Posts: 4,049
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Wrap your wrench with elect. tape, or srink wrap all but the jaws. Remove rings and watch. Don,t drop metel frame glasses on to the batterys. Where old clothes, safety glasses.
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04 Horizon QD, 12 Ford Flex, Excalibar, Brakemaster, Winter Texan, RVin! since 1974
Norm, Donna & Tinker Kat(RIP) 01 Z3
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12-17-2011, 07:05 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 134
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A Little Clarification...
Thanks for all the help, guys...
Dave,
By cross-connect leads do you mean the battery to battery connections?
I know this may blow some minds (It did mine but simple minds are easily amazed) but I have a very nice cable going from the positive on one battery to the negative on the battery that is feeding the equalizer. I asked a friend that has some experience in 24v systems and he said that is proper even though he can't explain why. Any idea how to remove and install that lead? Or is that what you meant by "cross-connect"?
Thanks a again for your help. I am glad I have a few weeks to work all of this out in my mind...
DKO
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DKO
Home is where you go when there's no place else to go!
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12-17-2011, 07:06 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 134
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Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by rgvtexan
Wrap your wrench with elect. tape, or srink wrap all but the jaws. Remove rings and watch. Don,t drop metel frame glasses on to the batterys. Where old clothes, safety glasses.
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All good advice...
DKO
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DKO
Home is where you go when there's no place else to go!
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12-17-2011, 07:50 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,528
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Yes - cables going from negative to positive posts on a series battery connection (i.e: two 12 VDC batteries connected in series to make 24VDC). Or, negative to negative / positive to positive; parrallel connection used to increase amperage (AH) but maintian same voltage.
I am not familure with 24VDC systems so not sure what you mean by equalizer. I am off to do x-mas shopping so if you reply my response will be later today.
D
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12-17-2011, 08:05 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave78Chief
Yes - cables going from negative to positive posts on a series battery connection (i.e: two 12 VDC batteries connected in series to make 24VDC). Or, negative to negative / positive to positive; parrallel connection used to increase amperage (AH) but maintian same voltage.
I am not familure with 24VDC systems so not sure what you mean by equalizer. I am off to do x-mas shopping so if you reply my response will be later today.
D
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I have four chassis batteries. They feed the equalizer that in turn distributes 24v where needed (Starter, various relays and maybe other things) and 12v where needed (Running lights, head lights and such.) It is mounted directly above my batteries in the engine compartment. I have a disconnect switch for both 24v and 12v.
The equalizer is one of the reasons I on here asking questions. it is just one more thing that I do NOT want to burn up.
I am definitely in the baby steps of learning about this...
Have fun shopping...
DKO
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DKO
Home is where you go when there's no place else to go!
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12-17-2011, 08:58 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: DFW Area, TX
Posts: 2,040
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You've gotten great advice. When removing the wires from our batteries, I tie all of the leads that go on one post together with binder's twine. That way, there is no confusion about what goes where. There is never more than one piece of twine open at one time. The cross connect wire can be handled separately.
I'd also recommend cleaning each and every surface on the lugs. You will never position the wires exactly as they were and a little build up on one of the lugs can insulate it and cause you fits after you put everything back together. It doesn't take long to wire brush tops and bottoms, examining each surface as you go. I recommend a mask while you are doing it. My paranoia causes me to double check the tightness of each lug on its wire as I go. A wire could be slipping out of its lug, already have corrosion built up inside and you might not catch it.
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2000 Georgie Boy Landau 36' DP
2018 Equinox toad
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12-17-2011, 10:14 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Avon Lake, Oh
Posts: 2,958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKO
I have four chassis batteries. They feed the equalizer that in turn distributes 24v where needed (Starter, various relays and maybe other things) and 12v where needed (Running lights, head lights and such.) It is mounted directly above my batteries in the engine compartment. I have a disconnect switch for both 24v and 12v.
The equalizer is one of the reasons I on here asking questions. it is just one more thing that I do NOT want to burn up.
I am definitely in the baby steps of learning about this...
Have fun shopping...
DKO
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I am also confused, you have 12v batteries connected in series to get 24v? I didn't know an rv would have any 24v circuits. I also don't know what is an equalizer?
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2000 HOLIDAY RAMBLER ENDEAVOR
40 FT--330HP CAT
2 SLIDES-TOAD 2012 focus
Fulltime-Home is where we park it.
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12-17-2011, 10:16 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Avon Lake, Oh
Posts: 2,958
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Are you sure your batteries are 12v? Could they be 6v batteries?
__________________
2000 HOLIDAY RAMBLER ENDEAVOR
40 FT--330HP CAT
2 SLIDES-TOAD 2012 focus
Fulltime-Home is where we park it.
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12-17-2011, 10:25 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davdeb1
I am also confused, you have 12v batteries connected in series to get 24v? I didn't know an rv would have any 24v circuits. I also don't know what is an equalizer?
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Yes, four 12v batteries. Pretty standard in big trucks and buses that need 24v to start. They are group 31 batteries, specifically Interstate Workaholic 31 MHD batteries with 950CCA. Google will tell you all about them.
As I said, "They feed the equalizer that in turn distributes 24v where needed (Starter, various relays and maybe other things) and 12v where needed (Running lights, head lights and such.) It is mounted directly above my batteries in the engine compartment. I have a disconnect switch for both 24v and 12v."
I don't blame you for asking for clarification. I sure didn't know any of this 4 years ago.
__________________
DKO
Home is where you go when there's no place else to go!
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12-17-2011, 10:31 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 127
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For those of you that have DP's, many diesel engines we had in our equipment (heavy construction) used a 24v system for starting, and 12v for all lights, turn signals, heaters etc. Very common when I use to have to work for a living.
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12-17-2011, 12:00 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,224
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As already recommended old clothes cause the battery acjd will turn them old fast.
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12-17-2011, 12:39 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 134
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Thank you
I sure appreciate everybody chiming in with information and helpful advice. If any one else has anything that has been overlooked please feel free to express yourself. I always need the help.
__________________
DKO
Home is where you go when there's no place else to go!
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12-17-2011, 02:41 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Avon Lake, Oh
Posts: 2,958
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After posting I took a look see at your equipment, and then I googled it. WOW! Some nice ride, I did not know just how much power those things required. I thought my 40 ft Holiday Rambler was complex, nothing compared to yours. We both have lots to learn.
__________________
2000 HOLIDAY RAMBLER ENDEAVOR
40 FT--330HP CAT
2 SLIDES-TOAD 2012 focus
Fulltime-Home is where we park it.
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12-17-2011, 03:07 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Bakersfield CA
Posts: 259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasfm11
You've gotten great advice. When removing the wires from our batteries, I tie all of the leads that go on one post together with binder's twine. That way, there is no confusion about what goes where. There is never more than one piece of twine open at one time. The cross connect wire can be handled separately.
I'd also recommend cleaning each and every surface on the lugs. You will never position the wires exactly as they were and a little build up on one of the lugs can insulate it and cause you fits after you put everything back together. It doesn't take long to wire brush tops and bottoms, examining each surface as you go. I recommend a mask while you are doing it. My paranoia causes me to double check the tightness of each lug on its wire as I go. A wire could be slipping out of its lug, already have corrosion built up inside and you might not catch it.
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I use electrical cable ties to keep all cables together for each terminal. Easy to tie together and just cut it off when reattaching to post. Also can color code each terminal with different color ties.
CarlGeo
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