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Old 03-25-2015, 06:48 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers View Post
Well, the paint on the rest of the coach is in excellent condition. The top of the caps on each end is the only problem. I'm gonna try this, if it works fine, if it doesn't work, that's OK too. At least I tried, and if it works there are other folks out there that can benefit from my trial!
Thanks Joe! I have a similar issue I believe on my top of the front cap, so yea, take a lot of pictures as you go along!
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:11 PM   #16
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I tried the home handyman sandpaper and aerosol spray solution and it didn't work for me. It probably didn't do any real harm... However in your effort to cut a few $$$ corners try not to do some real harm to yourself.... These products contain isocyanates which are toxic to the respiratory system.

Who was it that said..." A mans gotta know his limitations". IMO this toxic thing puts clear coat repair outta bounds for most DYI guys and is a job better left to the pros? Would be kinda a shame to undertake a DYI job with a very low % chance of success ....only to spend $$$ with your oncologist down the road!
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:44 PM   #17
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The problem with applying clear over a previous finish is that these componets, base and clear, are part of a system. When first applied there is a prescribed flash off that must occur prior to spraying a subsequent coat. To early and the gases from the first coat will damage the finish of the top coat, usually in the form of "fisheyes". To late and it won't bond to the previous coat. Durability is also dependent on the quality of the material and number of coats applied. Spraying any clear over an old base coat will only buy some time and might make future repair more difficult. The last time I bought a quality automotive clear with needed activators it was near $100 a gallon with certain color base coats even higher.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:42 AM   #18
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The problem with applying clear over a previous finish is that these componets, base and clear, are part of a system. When first applied there is a prescribed flash off that must occur prior to spraying a subsequent coat. To early and the gases from the first coat will damage the finish of the top coat, usually in the form of "fisheyes". To late and it won't bond to the previous coat. Durability is also dependent on the quality of the material and number of coats applied. Spraying any clear over an old base coat will only buy some time and might make future repair more difficult. The last time I bought a quality automotive clear with needed activators it was near $100 a gallon with certain color base coats even higher.
Exactly, clearcoat not only relies on a mechanical bond with the basecoat but also a chemical bond.

A good quality clear will be expensive. I use PPG DC2021 which is a high solids clear but then a catalyst is needed along with a reducer. 4:1:1 ratio and it add$$ up quickly.

Mike.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:22 AM   #19
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Yes, I did what you are thinking about on the top of the front cap. I sanded to get the loose stuff off, which is tricky because if you are too aggressive the clear coat just keeps coming off. (I used automotive clear coat from the auto store)

I reasoned that if I could get a few coats of clear on it it would form a kind of cap. It worked pretty well. Since it was out of my sight lines it was not too bad. It is no where close to a professional paint job. I can not tell you how long it will last because I had it redone while the rv was in for collision damage.

Give it a try. The worst that happens is that you are not satisfied. I have also had paint damage repaired by one of those companies that fixes up cars coming off lease. They did the job in 4 hours in a parking lot. It cost me $400 to get a very deep gouge on the side of the coach repaired. Someone had keyed the side of the coach (20ft long).
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:56 AM   #20
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Yes, I did what you are thinking about on the top of the front cap. I sanded to get the loose stuff off, which is tricky because if you are too aggressive the clear coat just keeps coming off. (I used automotive clear coat from the auto store)

I reasoned that if I could get a few coats of clear on it it would form a kind of cap. It worked pretty well. Since it was out of my sight lines it was not too bad. It is no where close to a professional paint job. I can not tell you how long it will last because I had it redone while the rv was in for collision damage.

Give it a try. The worst that happens is that you are not satisfied. I have also had paint damage repaired by one of those companies that fixes up cars coming off lease. They did the job in 4 hours in a parking lot. It cost me $400 to get a very deep gouge on the side of the coach repaired. Someone had keyed the side of the coach (20ft long).

Thanks for the encouragement! How long was it on there before you had the collision damage repaired?
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:49 AM   #21
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DrFilm -- maybe I missed it? Do you know who is the company is in Texas that provided the front coating? Thanks
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:53 AM   #22
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The bottom line on clear coat peeling: There was not enough uv protection in the clear coat product. Look at Chevy, Ford, Honda, Chrysler, or most auto manufactures who had the same problem with their suppliers not adding enough uv protectant. Sanding it all off is the best approach so the inevitable original bottom coat will not take the new with it. You'll find it effects the flat surfaces the first and the most. Sides are not normaly effected, the uv rays are not as strong. My 32 yrs in the auto industry .02
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Old 03-26-2015, 10:44 AM   #23
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Go to your local auto paint store and they will mix the right clear coat and put in a aerosol can. Call one near you and ask. The auto parts store is junk.


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Old 03-26-2015, 11:42 AM   #24
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Go to your local auto paint store and they will mix the right clear coat and put in a aerosol can. Call one near you and ask. The auto parts store is junk.


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John, look at post #10. O'Reillys has their own paint department, doing custom mixing, etc. This is what they recommended.
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Old 03-26-2015, 03:54 PM   #25
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Make sure it is 2K. Here is a link for one
2K GLAMOUR HIGH-GLOSS CLEARCOAT
a little pricey but worth it.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:09 PM   #26
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My 2008 Itasca Meridian is having the same problem. It is peeling on the front cap, rear cap, the radius along both sides and a couple of places on the sides. I got a couple of quotes for repairs and it is now at LaMesa RV in Ft. Pierce being repainted. They are also going to remove the Diamond Shield from the front and repair the paint. It's costing a bit but we figured the rig is worth it. It's only got 38,000 miles on it. Plenty of life left to make it worth keeping her looking good.
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Old 03-26-2015, 11:53 PM   #27
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Joe.....I tried all the repairs on mine. I sanded it out and buffed it....no go. I sanded it out and painted the front cap above the running lights, went bad on the back and then the front started to go again. There is NO cheap fix. Finally, I had the entire roof line repainted. My roof was dark, part of the problem, so I had them change the roof line to all one color, matching one of my lighter colors. I had them fade it in from the windshield over the top and down the side rails to the drip line. On the rear, they made a paint line just above the marker lights. The total cost was about $3K.

There will be many suggestions and things people tell you that worked, but they don't. Six months or a year later, it will be going bad again. Get ot dome right once and be done with it.
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Old 03-27-2015, 07:22 AM   #28
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The "repair" had been there a year before I hit the deer. Still looked ok.
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