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03-25-2015, 05:48 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Constitution State
Posts: 4,590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSHappyCampers
Well, the paint on the rest of the coach is in excellent condition. The top of the caps on each end is the only problem. I'm gonna try this, if it works fine, if it doesn't work, that's OK too. At least I tried, and if it works there are other folks out there that can benefit from my trial!
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Thanks Joe! I have a similar issue I believe on my top of the front cap, so yea, take a lot of pictures as you go along!
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03-25-2015, 06:11 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 967
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I tried the home handyman sandpaper and aerosol spray solution and it didn't work for me. It probably didn't do any real harm... However in your effort to cut a few $$$ corners try not to do some real harm to yourself.... These products contain isocyanates which are toxic to the respiratory system.
Who was it that said..." A mans gotta know his limitations". IMO this toxic thing puts clear coat repair outta bounds for most DYI guys and is a job better left to the pros? Would be kinda a shame to undertake a DYI job with a very low % chance of success ....only to spend $$$ with your oncologist down the road!
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Jack & Maggie
04-Rexhall Roseair (37)
Cummins ISC / Spartan
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03-25-2015, 08:44 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: On the Road
Posts: 1,223
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The problem with applying clear over a previous finish is that these componets, base and clear, are part of a system. When first applied there is a prescribed flash off that must occur prior to spraying a subsequent coat. To early and the gases from the first coat will damage the finish of the top coat, usually in the form of "fisheyes". To late and it won't bond to the previous coat. Durability is also dependent on the quality of the material and number of coats applied. Spraying any clear over an old base coat will only buy some time and might make future repair more difficult. The last time I bought a quality automotive clear with needed activators it was near $100 a gallon with certain color base coats even higher.
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Dan & Arlene
2005 Monaco Dynasty Diamond IV
Chasing the good weather
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03-26-2015, 06:42 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by falconman
The problem with applying clear over a previous finish is that these componets, base and clear, are part of a system. When first applied there is a prescribed flash off that must occur prior to spraying a subsequent coat. To early and the gases from the first coat will damage the finish of the top coat, usually in the form of "fisheyes". To late and it won't bond to the previous coat. Durability is also dependent on the quality of the material and number of coats applied. Spraying any clear over an old base coat will only buy some time and might make future repair more difficult. The last time I bought a quality automotive clear with needed activators it was near $100 a gallon with certain color base coats even higher.
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Exactly, clearcoat not only relies on a mechanical bond with the basecoat but also a chemical bond.
A good quality clear will be expensive. I use PPG DC2021 which is a high solids clear but then a catalyst is needed along with a reducer. 4:1:1 ratio and it add$$ up quickly.
Mike.
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03-26-2015, 07:22 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,295
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Yes, I did what you are thinking about on the top of the front cap. I sanded to get the loose stuff off, which is tricky because if you are too aggressive the clear coat just keeps coming off. (I used automotive clear coat from the auto store)
I reasoned that if I could get a few coats of clear on it it would form a kind of cap. It worked pretty well. Since it was out of my sight lines it was not too bad. It is no where close to a professional paint job. I can not tell you how long it will last because I had it redone while the rv was in for collision damage.
Give it a try. The worst that happens is that you are not satisfied. I have also had paint damage repaired by one of those companies that fixes up cars coming off lease. They did the job in 4 hours in a parking lot. It cost me $400 to get a very deep gouge on the side of the coach repaired. Someone had keyed the side of the coach (20ft long).
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Pcurt
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38V
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03-26-2015, 07:56 AM
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#20
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 54,794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcurt23
Yes, I did what you are thinking about on the top of the front cap. I sanded to get the loose stuff off, which is tricky because if you are too aggressive the clear coat just keeps coming off. (I used automotive clear coat from the auto store)
I reasoned that if I could get a few coats of clear on it it would form a kind of cap. It worked pretty well. Since it was out of my sight lines it was not too bad. It is no where close to a professional paint job. I can not tell you how long it will last because I had it redone while the rv was in for collision damage.
Give it a try. The worst that happens is that you are not satisfied. I have also had paint damage repaired by one of those companies that fixes up cars coming off lease. They did the job in 4 hours in a parking lot. It cost me $400 to get a very deep gouge on the side of the coach repaired. Someone had keyed the side of the coach (20ft long).
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Thanks for the encouragement! How long was it on there before you had the collision damage repaired?
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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03-26-2015, 08:49 AM
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#21
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Junior Member
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 13
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DrFilm -- maybe I missed it? Do you know who is the company is in Texas that provided the front coating? Thanks
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03-26-2015, 08:53 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Lake Norman, NC
Posts: 235
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The bottom line on clear coat peeling: There was not enough uv protection in the clear coat product. Look at Chevy, Ford, Honda, Chrysler, or most auto manufactures who had the same problem with their suppliers not adding enough uv protectant. Sanding it all off is the best approach so the inevitable original bottom coat will not take the new with it. You'll find it effects the flat surfaces the first and the most. Sides are not normaly effected, the uv rays are not as strong. My 32 yrs in the auto industry .02
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2 of us + 1 rescue, Sadie (not sure who rescued who. My cancer buddy, with me 7-24 for 1-1/2 yrs. mans , no my best friend) 11’ Newmar, Lake Time Now...
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03-26-2015, 09:44 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Worth texas
Posts: 1,110
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Go to your local auto paint store and they will mix the right clear coat and put in a aerosol can. Call one near you and ask. The auto parts store is junk.
Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum
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2003 Sightseer 33L
Ford F53
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03-26-2015, 10:42 AM
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#24
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Senior Member/RVM #90
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 54,794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johndale
Go to your local auto paint store and they will mix the right clear coat and put in a aerosol can. Call one near you and ask. The auto parts store is junk.
Sent from my iPhone using iRV2 - RV Forum
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John, look at post #10. O'Reillys has their own paint department, doing custom mixing, etc. This is what they recommended.
__________________
Joe & Annette
Sometimes I sits and thinks, sometimes I just sits.....
2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT, 2013 Honda CRV AWD
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03-26-2015, 02:54 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ft Worth texas
Posts: 1,110
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Make sure it is 2K. Here is a link for one
2K GLAMOUR HIGH-GLOSS CLEARCOAT
a little pricey but worth it.
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2003 Sightseer 33L
Ford F53
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03-26-2015, 06:09 PM
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#26
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Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 99
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My 2008 Itasca Meridian is having the same problem. It is peeling on the front cap, rear cap, the radius along both sides and a couple of places on the sides. I got a couple of quotes for repairs and it is now at LaMesa RV in Ft. Pierce being repainted. They are also going to remove the Diamond Shield from the front and repair the paint. It's costing a bit but we figured the rig is worth it. It's only got 38,000 miles on it. Plenty of life left to make it worth keeping her looking good.
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03-26-2015, 10:53 PM
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#27
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"Formerly Diplomat Don"
Newmar Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Moorpark, Ca.
Posts: 24,125
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Joe.....I tried all the repairs on mine. I sanded it out and buffed it....no go. I sanded it out and painted the front cap above the running lights, went bad on the back and then the front started to go again. There is NO cheap fix. Finally, I had the entire roof line repainted. My roof was dark, part of the problem, so I had them change the roof line to all one color, matching one of my lighter colors. I had them fade it in from the windshield over the top and down the side rails to the drip line. On the rear, they made a paint line just above the marker lights. The total cost was about $3K.
There will be many suggestions and things people tell you that worked, but they don't. Six months or a year later, it will be going bad again. Get ot dome right once and be done with it.
__________________
Don & Mary
2019 Newmar Dutch Star 4018 (Freightliner)
2019 Ford Raptor
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03-27-2015, 06:22 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,295
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The "repair" had been there a year before I hit the deer. Still looked ok.
__________________
Pcurt
2007 Fleetwood Bounder 38V
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