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Old 03-27-2015, 09:42 AM   #29
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Thanks again everyone for the comments! From what you say I know I'm probably wasting my time, but I'm hard-headed! As I said, time will tell!
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:53 AM   #30
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Thanks again everyone for the comments! From what you say I know I'm probably wasting my time, but I'm hard-headed! As I said, time will tell!
I wouldn't say hard headed. I know many that have this peeling and don't have any intentions of doing anything. My hat is off to you for at least addressing it and wanting to take care of your coach.

Mike.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:25 PM   #31
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The problem here is that the clear coat has failed so anything you put on top of it is only sticking to something that is no longer attached. The new clear will stick to the old clear and both of them will peel off because the old clear is not stuck to anything.


You may get a year out of it before it fails again, maybe more maybe less. Sure is a lot of effort for such a short gain. You still need to mask the coach as if it was a colored paint since the overspray will not look good on windows and trim, not to mention the rest of the paint.


My 20 plus years in the paint business says bite the bullet and have it removed and sprayed with a good clear coat. Todays paints are so good waxing is not really even necessary. You will still get 10 years out of it doing nothing but washing it.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:45 PM   #32
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[QUOTE=keymastr;2483968]
Quote:
The problem here is that the clear coat has failed so anything you put on top of it is only sticking to something that is no longer attached. The new clear will stick to the old clear and both of them will peel off because the old clear is not stuck to anything.
The clear coat is totally gone on the areas that I will be working on, so hopefully the new clear coat will stick to the color coat below. The prep that I bought is supposed to make the clear coat stick. We'll see!
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:35 AM   #33
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Well, the paint on the rest of the coach is in excellent condition. The top of the caps on each end is the only problem. I'm gonna try this, if it works fine, if it doesn't work, that's OK too. At least I tried, and if it works there are other folks out there that can benefit from my trial!
I ment have the bad areas repainted professional ,,heres the problem
with what you are doing... if it doesn't work it's gonna cost you double to fix...
I used to own a paint and body shop...what ever you put on there will have to be complete stripped..
no shop will be able to warranty their work covering it..

their is a huge problem with this on the west coast... in fact most all that are full timers and people with no shade port or garage...

take it to a shop and have them paint it.. or have a mobile guy fix it

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Old 03-30-2015, 09:40 AM   #34
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The problem here is that the clear coat has failed so anything you put on top of it is only sticking to something that is no longer attached. The new clear will stick to the old clear and both of them will peel off because the old clear is not stuck to anything.


You may get a year out of it before it fails again, maybe more maybe less. Sure is a lot of effort for such a short gain. You still need to mask the coach as if it was a colored paint since the overspray will not look good on windows and trim, not to mention the rest of the paint.


My 20 plus years in the paint business says bite the bullet and have it removed and sprayed with a good clear coat. Todays paints are so good waxing is not really even necessary. You will still get 10 years out of it doing nothing but washing it.

hey hey hey
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:01 PM   #35
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Joe, I also tried what you are doing. I found that the old clearcoat came off like dandruff when I touched it with the sanding. After I sprayed the rattle can clearcoat I let it adhere and them covered it with 303 wax which is supposed to have UV protection. I'me not trying to do a professional job only to delay the peeling process. Only been less than a year but seems to help somewhat. Good luck with your efforts and keep us appraised.

Have a nice day - Darrel
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:22 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Joe, I also tried what you are doing. I found that the old clearcoat came off like dandruff when I touched it with the sanding. After I sprayed the rattle can clearcoat I let it adhere and them covered it with 303 wax which is supposed to have UV protection. I'me not trying to do a professional job only to delay the peeling process. Only been less than a year but seems to help somewhat. Good luck with your efforts and keep us appraised.

Have a nice day - Darrel
I used a new razorblade to gently scrape off the flaky clear coat prior to sanding and got a surprising amount of loose clear coat off. Go for it1
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:32 PM   #37
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I used a new razorblade to gently scrape off the flaky clear coat prior to sanding and got a surprising amount of loose clear coat off. Go for it1

On the part I'm working on I got all of the flaky clearcoat off to where it is "solid", not more flaking. I used the 1500 grit sandpaper to smooth down the edges. I'm gonna give it a try and see what happens!
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:07 PM   #38
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First of all, my apologies to everybody if I step on your toes.


Almost everything that has been suggested is wrong. The clear has lost adhesion due to the UV rays, and an improper prep job. If you decide to sand it with 1500 grit sand paper, make sure you do it wet. Get a small bucket of water and put 4 or 5 drops of dish washing liquid in the water and mix a bit. Drop in you pre-cut sand paper and let it stay in the water long enough to curl around itself. It is wet, and ready to use.
Never use the sand paper just in your hand, use some type of block between your hand and the surface. If you don't, you'll wind up with palm marks in the paint. Your hand is not flat. And be ready for the base coat to show sanding marks in it. The base coat is sprayed and not touched, in almost every case in a base clear application.


Don't ever go to O'Reilly's and talk to anybody there about painting, they have never done it professionally, the are a parts store clerk. A spray can from there is going to come back off in less that a year, unless they have a good name brand, and they might. I doubt it, but it is possible.


If you must sand and paint, find a good automotive paint store, they may have spray cans of a clear that will hold up. Be sure to ask about a 222 midcoat adhesion promoter. That makes a "biting tool" between the old base coat and the new clear. You need to be on a very calm day with VERY little wind, or none at all. You should put 4 or 5 coats, spray cans put out a very thin coat, and it has a lot of reducer in it to get it thru the small orifice in the spray tip. Take your time.


Again, I hope I didn't offend anybody, but this is my wheelhouse. I've been a painter just over 40 years, starting with F-4's, B-52's and KC-135's. I have been painting other than military equipment ever since. The only real fix for this, is to have it professionally done, but that's big bucks, and I don't think insurance will be of any help at all.
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:11 PM   #39
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First of all, my apologies to everybody if I step on your toes.


Almost everything that has been suggested is wrong. The clear has lost adhesion due to the UV rays, and an improper prep job. If you decide to sand it with 1500 grit sand paper, make sure you do it wet. Get a small bucket of water and put 4 or 5 drops of dish washing liquid in the water and mix a bit. Drop in you pre-cut sand paper and let it stay in the water long enough to curl around itself. It is wet, and ready to use.
Never use the sand paper just in your hand, use some type of block between your hand and the surface. If you don't, you'll wind up with palm marks in the paint. Your hand is not flat. And be ready for the base coat to show sanding marks in it. The base coat is sprayed and not touched, in almost every case in a base clear application.


Don't ever go to O'Reilly's and talk to anybody there about painting, they have never done it professionally, the are a parts store clerk. A spray can from there is going to come back off in less that a year, unless they have a good name brand, and they might. I doubt it, but it is possible.


If you must sand and paint, find a good automotive paint store, they may have spray cans of a clear that will hold up. Be sure to ask about a 222 midcoat adhesion promoter. That makes a "biting tool" between the old base coat and the new clear. You need to be on a very calm day with VERY little wind, or none at all. You should put 4 or 5 coats, spray cans put out a very thin coat, and it has a lot of reducer in it to get it thru the small orifice in the spray tip. Take your time.


Again, I hope I didn't offend anybody, but this is my wheelhouse. I've been a painter just over 40 years, starting with F-4's, B-52's and KC-135's. I have been painting other than military equipment ever since. The only real fix for this, is to have it professionally done, but that's big bucks, and I don't think insurance will be of any help at all.
Nice
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:17 PM   #40
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Thanks, I just hope I explained enough to make sense. I know exactly what I'm saying, but tend to hurry to get it out, I miss something. I went back over this 3 times. I'm here to help, and learn.
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Old 04-01-2015, 05:05 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by BigBlockTank View Post
First of all, my apologies to everybody if I step on your toes.


Almost everything that has been suggested is wrong. The clear has lost adhesion due to the UV rays, and an improper prep job. If you decide to sand it with 1500 grit sand paper, make sure you do it wet. Get a small bucket of water and put 4 or 5 drops of dish washing liquid in the water and mix a bit. Drop in you pre-cut sand paper and let it stay in the water long enough to curl around itself. It is wet, and ready to use.
Never use the sand paper just in your hand, use some type of block between your hand and the surface. If you don't, you'll wind up with palm marks in the paint. Your hand is not flat. And be ready for the base coat to show sanding marks in it. The base coat is sprayed and not touched, in almost every case in a base clear application.


Don't ever go to O'Reilly's and talk to anybody there about painting, they have never done it professionally, the are a parts store clerk. A spray can from there is going to come back off in less that a year, unless they have a good name brand, and they might. I doubt it, but it is possible.


If you must sand and paint, find a good automotive paint store, they may have spray cans of a clear that will hold up. Be sure to ask about a 222 midcoat adhesion promoter. That makes a "biting tool" between the old base coat and the new clear. You need to be on a very calm day with VERY little wind, or none at all. You should put 4 or 5 coats, spray cans put out a very thin coat, and it has a lot of reducer in it to get it thru the small orifice in the spray tip. Take your time.


Again, I hope I didn't offend anybody, but this is my wheelhouse. I've been a painter just over 40 years, starting with F-4's, B-52's and KC-135's. I have been painting other than military equipment ever since. The only real fix for this, is to have it professionally done, but that's big bucks, and I don't think insurance will be of any help at all.
I really appreciate your suggestions! I believe the paint department at O'Reillys is where the auto body shops here get their paint, but tomorrow I will call one of the body shops to be sure!

I have already sanded a small area using the 1500 grit sandpaper, WITHOUT water, but I will definitely follow your suggestion on the rest of it!

I really don't think anyone on here will be offended. We can all learn from each other, and particularly from folks like you that have the training and experience to back up what they say! Again, thank you!
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:03 AM   #42
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Great Discussion guys, But what if our problem is way bigger than a can of Paint. I own a 94' GulfStream and the Clear coat is peeling real bad and makes a nice RV into an RV from Christmas Vacation.

I was thinking that I would purchase a Vinyl film and apply it to the RV, like an add on a Bus, there are companys that will do this to your whole car.
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