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Old 02-24-2019, 02:52 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dav L View Post
That's good for a rattle can!
With those results, don't do the bed liner thing. Do the same as what you did on the back cap.

Key tools to make this go much easier: an orbital DA sander and a decent sized compressor...even if you have to rent a compressor for a day. The majority of the work is sanding the old finish to prep. The DA makes it go easy.

And...rent or buy a decent $150 spray gun and use real auto paint with the rented compressor (and regulator). Then you will bring it all back to original.

You'll pay for all the tools just doing the job you show pics of compared to paying a body shop for their efforts.


I could buy a Harbor Freight gun. My compressor wonít handle the demand but I could probably borrow one. The mixing of the automotive paint and all the additives seem a little tricky. I have a professional auto painter neighbor but heís put me off 2yrs in a row now. He had the paint scanned and I have the code, but after hearing him explain it all I donít know if I want to tackle it.
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Old 02-25-2019, 10:24 AM   #86
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Sounds like a lot of work but done the right way. I bet your results look really good.
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:21 AM   #87
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Mixing the paint and additives is not difficult Just follow directions for the type of paint you are using you can purchase mixing cups at any automotive paint store. do not use the Home depot mixing cups they are not rated for solvents you may have to use.

base coat paint these days can be purchased with a water base no solvents required.
as far as a compressor, you would not require large amounts of air to paint small areas you will be painting at around 32PSI to 40 PSI. I used my pancake compressor for painting.

my paint was left over from a previous repair and was solvent based and was also metallic I need to practice on spraying metallic to avoid the spots you may see in one of my photos

for small repairs you could get away with an inexpensive gun for the base coat. the primer and 2K clear coat in a rattle can
I will try to add pic of my results one more time
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Old 02-26-2019, 10:39 AM   #88
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I also used an electric orbital DA/sander/buffer for feathering of the peeled paint areas. and used the same tool with buffing pads to polish after sanding the blended areas with 1500 wet paper
if you are going to use a compressor to paint do not forget to purchase a moisture oil separator for attachment to your spray gun

Lot of good videos on You Tube about automotive painting and prepping
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:50 PM   #89
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I have a bit of history founded on zero knowledge of 2 part automotive spray.

My rig had Clear Coat sprayed over Gel Coat (no base coat) that survived for about 14 years.

It also had Clear Coat sprayed over Base Coat, that lasted longer but is peeling now (24 years).

The Clear Coat over Gel Coat was easy to strip. A razor blade scraper would take it off in sheets 2 feet x 1 foot long.

After prepping the Gel Coat with cleaner, I sprayed many cans of the Y2K rattle can 2 part Clear Coat.

It looked beautiful with three coats of Clear Coat. But the CC failed after about three years.

I also sanded my front Bumper and over the windshield base coat areas. So when I painted with Base Coat and then Y2K Clear Coat rattle cans it looked great.

4 Years later, my front bumper looks fine but the over the windshield area clear coat is peeling again.

I also had my roof brow stripped, base coat, and clear coated by a truck painting shop in 2003. It still looks great!

I also had my rear bumper stripped, base coat, and clear coated by a truck painting shop in 2007. The bumper needs to be repainted now.

Conclusion:

1. Apply Clear Coat over Base Coat, no exceptions.
2. Hire a good painter with automotive experience if you want it to last 10 years.
3. Have them use quality paints (I did $100/qt but am not a pro painter).

Or

4. Buy a full painted coach in a single color!
5 Or.....repaint in a single color.

A professional paint job that will last 10 years costs more than my rig is worth.
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Old 07-12-2019, 03:51 PM   #90
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To "Spot treat" vs Full field sand and recoat?

I have similar spots of CC failure and a RV bodyshop wants $6.5 K for some 44 hrs work on a small-to-me square foot repair! The quoted work calls for complete strip of clearcoated panels. Unbelievable that you have to corner-to-corner sand the clearcoat even tho it appears solid except for the peeling spots. Coach is 2005 and probably will fetch $40k at best at sale time.

While some are well-meaning to advocate "get-professional work"; I still can't get past the exorbintate area of clearcoat removal involved. My guess the reason being: Body shop wants to hedge their work so that I don't have future heartburn of their completed work (because I chose not to go thecorner-to-corner route).

My question is this: if one does a as-needed clearcoat repair, knowing future spots could pop up and need repair....come out better (and have satisfactory results) ?
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Old 07-12-2019, 09:07 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62Morgan View Post
I have similar spots of CC failure and a RV bodyshop wants $6.5 K for some 44 hrs work on a small-to-me square foot repair! The quoted work calls for complete strip of clearcoated panels. Unbelievable that you have to corner-to-corner sand the clearcoat even tho it appears solid except for the peeling spots. Coach is 2005 and probably will fetch $40k at best at sale time.

While some are well-meaning to advocate "get-professional work"; I still can't get past the exorbintate area of clearcoat removal involved. My guess the reason being: Body shop wants to hedge their work so that I don't have future heartburn of their completed work (because I chose not to go thecorner-to-corner route).

My question is this: if one does a as-needed clearcoat repair, knowing future spots could pop up and need repair....come out better (and have satisfactory results) ?
Not quite sure what your question is....are you asking if you do a spot repair will it come out ok? That all depends on who is doing the work.
It's easier to do all at once than area by area as there are stages to the work and it's easier to get all areas to stage 1 (clean) and then stage 2 (sand) and then stage 3 (finish sand) and then stage 4 (clean) and then mask and then prime or paint and then clear all.

Are you going to do the work yourself? It will take a DIY'r the first time multiple times as long as the body shop. They have the tools and experience to be efficient (or they go out of business).

It's a good DIY job for the interested. Just lots of work.
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