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Old 03-25-2015, 10:44 AM   #1
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Cure for peeling clear-coat... Maybe!

The clear coat on the top of my rear cap is peeling bad! I came up with the idea of using 1500 grain sandpaper to "feather" the edges, hoping this will stop the peeling. It won't show up there. Has anyone ever tried this or think it will work?
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:47 AM   #2
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Sanding the edges generally won't stop the peeling. The clear coat is not bonded properly with the base coat. The only real cure is to remove all the clear coat and prep the base properly then reapply the clear.
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Old 03-25-2015, 10:50 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom View Post
Sanding the edges generally won't stop the peeling. The clear coat is not bonded properly with the base coat. The only real cure is to remove all the clear coat and prep the base properly then reapply the clear.
Exactly! Can't stop, what wasn't applied correctly in the first place. We're having the same problem.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:13 AM   #4
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What is the recommended procedure for doing it correctly?
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:18 AM   #5
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I don't think it's because it was applied wrong, but more due to the fact that the curved portion of the top/side gets most of the UV rays from the sun. As a test, I took an IR temp sensor and measured the temperatures on the roof, side, and the curved portion. Guess which one was 20 degrees hotter?

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Old 03-25-2015, 11:30 AM   #6
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Trust me, Joe, no matter what you do other than total new clear-coating, it's a waste of time.

Here are some photos of the worst areas of my coach where the CC was peeling really bad. The area where the roof curves down to the sides is another bad area.

I solved the roof area by covering the entire roof with an Ultra-Tuff Coating over one year ago. The other areas will be repainted and clear-coated some year when I decide to have the entire coach repainted and the front will have a special coating applied that is color matched to the paint scheme I have now.

There is a company in Texas that applies this special coating to the front cap that looks similar to bed liner but it is much more durable.

I have attached photos of a friend that had it doene to his Windsor just before selling it.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:32 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Dr4Film View Post
Trust me, Joe, no matter what you do other than total new clear-coating, it's a waste of time.

Here are some photos of the worst areas of my coach where the CC was peeling really bad. The area where the roof curves down to the sides is another bad area.

I solved the roof area by coating with an Ultra-Tuff Coating over one year ago. The other areas will be repainted and clear-coated some year when I decide to have the entire coach repainted and the front will have a special coating applied that is color matched to the paint scheme I have now.

There is a company in Texas that applies this special coating to the front cap that looks similar to bed liner but it is much more durable.

I have attached photos of a friend that had it doene to his Windsor just before selling it.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

Yep, that's exactly how mine looks!
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:35 AM   #8
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I know this may sound silly, but has anyone ever tried the sanding thing I mentioned, THEN just spraying the area with clear acrylic spray cans that you can buy at most any auto parts store? It wouldn't make much difference how it looks because it's on top where people don't see it.
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Old 03-25-2015, 12:54 PM   #9
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If you use a clear coat make sure it has the right UV protection. Most auto paint stores can mix the right paint and put it in a spray can. Cost a little more but worth it.


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Old 03-25-2015, 03:54 PM   #10
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If you use a clear coat make sure it has the right UV protection. Most auto paint stores can mix the right paint and put it in a spray can. Cost a little more but worth it.


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John, thanks for the tip! I went to the paint department at O'Reillys Auto Parts and talked to the manager. After hearing my problem, he made the following recommendations:

He agreed with "feathering" the edges with the 1500 grit sandpaper

Clean the area with the Prep-Spray
Dupli-Color PS100 - Grease And Wax Remover | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Use the Dupli-Color Protective Clear Coat Finish with UV protection
Dupli-Color Perfect Match BCL0125 - Touch Up Paint | O'Reilly Auto Parts


Well, I'm gonna give it a shot! I guess only time will tell if this works or if it's another one of my hair-brained ideas. Wish me luck!
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:02 PM   #11
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I think you are on the right track.

Yes, peeling clearcoat CAN be from improperly bonding to the basecoat, however, on a 8, 10 or older year old coach I would say the clearcoat bonded fine upon initial application but over time the UV has broken it down until it has failed.

Sanding and feathering the edge will be the first step but be cautious to not sand through the basecoat or you will be re-applying that. The basecoat is quite thin and easily sanded through.

I had a few spots on my Dynasty that I touched up last year but I ended up taking it down as far as necessary, applying new sealer, basecoat and then several coats of clearcoat. The area over the windshield (eyebrow) being the worse of the areas. Turned out great at least enough to last a year or two until I have the entire coach repainted.

I also had two very small areas near the rear that the clearcoat was just barely peeling where I very lightly sanded it to feather the edge and then applied clearcoat with a small detail gun and blended/melted the edges of with straight reducer to melt the edges of the fresh clearcoat in. After allowing ample dry time I again very lightly buffed the area to eliminate any haze or blending area from the fresh clearcoat. What a PITA but it looks ok until a complete paint job can be had.

I have a link to my process in my signature if you want to see some more detailed pictures, which will probably show better than my description.

Mike.
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Old 03-25-2015, 04:55 PM   #12
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I think you are on the right track.

Yes, peeling clearcoat CAN be from improperly bonding to the basecoat, however, on a 8, 10 or older year old coach I would say the clearcoat bonded fine upon initial application but over time the UV has broken it down until it has failed.

Sanding and feathering the edge will be the first step but be cautious to not sand through the basecoat or you will be re-applying that. The basecoat is quite thin and easily sanded through.

I had a few spots on my Dynasty that I touched up last year but I ended up taking it down as far as necessary, applying new sealer, basecoat and then several coats of clearcoat. The area over the windshield (eyebrow) being the worse of the areas. Turned out great at least enough to last a year or two until I have the entire coach repainted.

I also had two very small areas near the rear that the clearcoat was just barely peeling where I very lightly sanded it to feather the edge and then applied clearcoat with a small detail gun and blended/melted the edges of with straight reducer to melt the edges of the fresh clearcoat in. After allowing ample dry time I again very lightly buffed the area to eliminate any haze or blending area from the fresh clearcoat. What a PITA but it looks ok until a complete paint job can be had.

I have a link to my process in my signature if you want to see some more detailed pictures, which will probably show better than my description.

Mike.

Mike, I already looked at your pics and writeup about the painting and other work. It looks great! You are obviously a very talented guy! I'm a pretty good handy-man but paint work is definitely not part of my limited knowledge!

Luckily, this work will be on top where it will not show, so if I can stop the peeling I won't worry about how good or bad it looks! Thanks for your comments!
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Old 03-25-2015, 05:10 PM   #13
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Mike, I already looked at your pics and writeup about the painting and other work. It looks great! You are obviously a very talented guy! I'm a pretty good handy-man but paint work is definitely not part of my limited knowledge!

Luckily, this work will be on top where it will not show, so if I can stop the peeling I won't worry about how good or bad it looks! Thanks for your comments!
think of it this way... it lasted 14 yrs

what I would do is just have it re painted...you could have it color matched with a single stage paint ...

also arosol clear won't last the time it takes to sprat it...

I would leave it alone till I could afford to repair propper
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Old 03-25-2015, 05:59 PM   #14
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think of it this way... it lasted 14 yrs

what I would do is just have it re painted...you could have it color matched with a single stage paint ...

also arosol clear won't last the time it takes to sprat it...

I would leave it alone till I could afford to repair propper

Well, the paint on the rest of the coach is in excellent condition. The top of the caps on each end is the only problem. I'm gonna try this, if it works fine, if it doesn't work, that's OK too. At least I tried, and if it works there are other folks out there that can benefit from my trial!
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