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Old 08-29-2012, 10:19 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by ahicks View Post
To patch it so that it's not leaking and is structurally intact would not be difficult. To patch it and have it look like there was never a repair done there takes some experience?

If you decide to tackle it, the best advice I can give you is do not let the size of your repair extend more than an inch from the actual damage. Keep your repair as small as possible. That'll keep whatever you do not so noticeable. Many rookies will take a damaged area the size of yours and make a repair that's huge in comparison.

Here's one source for that molding, to show you it's not hard to get at all. Something like a buck a foot.

Aluminum Extrusion - Factory RV Surplus

With luck you can find somebody doing a lot of repair work nearby. It's common, so if they're doing a lot of repair work they'll stock it. They may also be willing to match a sample you hand them? Just cut a piece of that damaged area off, maybe 4-6" of it? If you can find it local you won't get stung so badly for freight. -Al
I posted an ad on Craigs list for some help repairing. I got a couple responses, 1 guy stated "Your camper looks newer. I would go to you dealer and reorder the metal track. Then all you need to do is butyl tape the seam and re-install the metal track. I donít think a dealer would charge more then 4 hours labor to repair. Goodluck!"

What is butyl tape? Does this guy know what he's talking about?

When inspecting the corner molding, it looks like there is some sort of sticking stuff behind the corner molding, is this butyl tape?
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Old 08-29-2012, 12:27 PM   #16
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I posted an ad on Craigs list for some help repairing. I got a couple responses, 1 guy stated "Your camper looks newer. I would go to you dealer and reorder the metal track. Then all you need to do is butyl tape the seam and re-install the metal track. I donít think a dealer would charge more then 4 hours labor to repair. Goodluck!"

What is butyl tape? Does this guy know what he's talking about?

When inspecting the corner molding, it looks like there is some sort of sticking stuff behind the corner molding, is this butyl tape?
Butyl tape would work, but there's some other stuff, a lot less sticky and easier to work with. Been too long, forget what it's called but I see it's still commonly stocked. It's usually right next to the butyl tape in stores.

That guy may have a good plan. I think he's talking about a repair kit that's used to repair a rubber roof? SUPER sticky, might not be a bad idea, especially if it were trimmed to a size that overlapped the damage by maybe an inch, and corners maybe radiused a little? You would have to be careful applying it so it didn't wrinkle. Kinda like a decal? I might be tempted to spray the affected area with Windex. That will let you move the patch around a little until it's where you want it. Then walk away without messing with it further. Come back in an hour or 2. The Windex will have evaporated. Then you can smooth the patch if necessary - and it's not going to go anywhere.....

Prior to applying that patch, you would want to make sure that torn glass was not protruding anywhere, all torn edges pushed in, cut off, whatever.

Good luck!
-Al
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Old 08-29-2012, 02:30 PM   #17
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I did much the same thing to my then Mobile Scout several years ago. I ordered the corner molding from factory and took my trailer to a boat repair shop. They repaired the fiberglass and matched the gelcoat and resprayed the repair. Then caulk and install the molding, no one could ever tell it had happened.
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Old 08-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #18
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Seems like any damage is going to cost around $3,000 if professionally done.

We had an awning broken in a sudden rain storm in Fresno in late March. New awning and paint touch up where the arms hit the storage bays was $4,400. We have full body paint but the gel coat wasn't even damaged, the OP's gel coat needs redoing too. In some cases it would be cheaper to replace the whole side of the TT. I don't think it's needed in this case though.
After doing this i immediately drove over to the local dealer and he stated between 2-3k!! HIGHWAY ROBBERY!!

I got lucky today, called the closet auto body guy in my town. This guy used to work for the camper shop that quoted me that high price. He did all the exterior fiberglass work, etc. He does not help them out anymore because they are dishonest.
He told me today it would cost around $400 and that included welding the bumper. He will call me with a accurate estimate in 1-2 days.
I would do it myself before i pay 2k...

I mean come on 10 ft. of corner molding, and 10 ft. of bottom molding, little fiberglass patch is all materials. Labor is around 4 hours.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:02 PM   #19
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ok, bad news is i dont know if this will be covered by our vehicle insurance. My wife never told our rep we bought a trailer. She called today and he is checking to see if it is covered.
If it is not covered i will be trying a DIY with some filler and who knows what else. I do not have the $$ to pay out of pocket for this.
Are you saying you have no insurance on the trailer?
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:18 PM   #20
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Are you saying you have no insurance on the trailer?
I do now, but anyway if i can get this fixed for $400, i wouldnt bother, dont want my rate to go up.
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