Do I need a different TV?

[kerplooey]

Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2009 KZ Coyote the others day. The trailers dry weight is about 4k lb. I have a 2002 Yukon XL 1500 that I used to tow my Bayside Popup with ease. However, when I got hooked up to the Coyote, the old Yukon really seemed to struggle on the hills and inclines on the highway. The TV has north of 230,000 miles on it, so maybe that 5.3 is getting tired. I've never pulled a camper this heavy before, but it almost feels like I have the old cattle trailer behind me. When I got home the wheels were cool, so I dont think the brakes were dragging. What are your thoughts? Are other, newer trucks bogging down with this kind of trailer, or do I need to be thinking a new TV is in order for reasons other than mileage? Thanks for any help you can provide!

[aether_one]

Originally Posted by kerplooey

Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2009 KZ Coyote the others day. The trailers dry weight is about 4k lb. I have a 2002 Yukon XL 1500 that I used to tow my Bayside Popup with ease. However, when I got hooked up to the Coyote, the old Yukon really seemed to struggle on the hills and inclines on the highway. The TV has north of 230,000 miles on it, so maybe that 5.3 is getting tired. I've never pulled a camper this heavy before, but it almost feels like I have the old cattle trailer behind me. When I got home the wheels were cool, so I dont think the brakes were dragging. What are your thoughts? Are other, newer trucks bogging down with this kind of trailer, or do I need to be thinking a new TV is in order for reasons other than mileage? Thanks for any help you can provide!

Ignore the dry weight, what is its GVWR? A 1/2 ton Yukon or pickup will feel taxed pulling a 6000 lb trailer, some more than other depending on the rear axle ratio and how the TV is equipped.

[Fritz.]

Originally Posted by tfryman

Ignore the dry weight, what is its GVWR? A 1/2 ton Yukon or pickup will feel taxed pulling a 6000 lb trailer, some more than other depending on the rear axle ratio and how the TV is equipped.

I agree with this.

[tuffr2]

As you are finding out travel trailers are not pop-ups. Dry weight of about 4,000 lbs really does not tell us much. I would bet if you got your rig weighed it would be in the low 5,000lb range.

The Yukon XL is a big vehicle. The 5.3 litre engine is just fine driving solo but add 5,000lbs and any vehicle would slow down. Especially a big vehicle that already weighs a lot.

What you are experiencing is normal.

I would not buy another TV.

[A32Deuce]

Think of it as pulling a barn door behind you. That is air resistance! TTs are not aerodynamic like you vehicle then add the weight.

[TIME2CAMP]

Buy a scangage and plug it into the OBD port. Watch water temp and trans temp. They will tell you how hard the TV is working.

[77Travco]

Originally Posted by kerplooey

Hey everyone. I just picked up a 2009 KZ Coyote the others day. The trailers dry weight is about 4k lb. I have a 2002 Yukon XL 1500 that I used to tow my Bayside Popup with ease. However, when I got hooked up to the Coyote, the old Yukon really seemed to struggle on the hills and inclines on the highway. The TV has north of 230,000 miles on it, so maybe that 5.3 is getting tired. I've never pulled a camper this heavy before, but it almost feels like I have the old cattle trailer behind me. When I got home the wheels were cool, so I dont think the brakes were dragging. What are your thoughts? Are other, newer trucks bogging down with this kind of trailer, or do I need to be thinking a new TV is in order for reasons other than mileage? Thanks for any help you can provide!

What gear ratio does the Suburban have? Stock size tires? How fast were you going?
Try putting it in tow/haul mode and taking it out of overdrive.

[shane_the_ee]

Originally Posted by kerplooey

Are other, newer trucks bogging down with this kind of trailer, or do I need to be thinking a new TV is in order for reasons other than mileage?

That depends entirely on your definition of "bogging down". I very much notice a difference in acceleration with my 6000lb trailer behind my Expedition. It'll hold a stead 65-70mph up the passes with the RPMs staying below 3000. If I get stuck behind one of those semi trucks that are only doing 45 and want to pass and get back up to 65 or 70, it's going to take some time and effort and fuel.

From what you've stated, my guess is you've got the 5.3L with 3.08 rear axle. In which case the "bogging down" is due to the fuel economy maximizing rear axle ratio combined with a relatively low powered engine. That's the same combo my father uses in his Silveratod to tow his 5600lb (4100lb dry) travel trailer. It works, there's nothing wrong with it; it's just a bit pokey at times.

Originally Posted by kerplooey

The TV has north of 230,000 miles on it, so maybe that 5.3 is getting tired....

Ah, the real question. Are you wanting to buy a new truck? The one you have is designed for family hauling but can still be used to tow the size of trailer you have. For towing, it's a far cry from, say, a 3/4 ton that's designed for towing and can still be used to haul some people.



Or you split the difference and get a 1/2 ton SUV that's optimized for towing (like we did).

[Fritz.]

I’d keep it out of overdrive and get a gauge to watch the trans temp.

[tuffr2]

I towed a 5,500lb travel trailer with 2011 F-150 5.0 litre Coyote engine. That would be a great truck to tow your Coyote trailer.

The newer Ford engines don't feel like they are getting bogged down if you get one built for towing.

If the above poster is right and you have a 3:08 gear ratio that is a problem. Example: towing gear ratio's are 3:55 and 3:73 or better yet 3:92.

Real towing gears are 4:10 and 4:30.

3:08 gears gives better fuel economy while 3:73 gears gives a better mix of fuel economy plus towing ability.

You can find what gear ratio you have by typing your vin number into a vin number identification app or maybe just Google.

[Fritz.]

Most of those suburbans if 4x4 were 3.42 I think but 3.73 was available. The codes are in the glovebox if you want to check it out.
GU4....3.08
GU5....3.23
GU6....3.42
GT4....3.73
GT5....4.10

Or put your vin in here.
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/vin...PKSE72CF211020


Gearing makes a big difference. For example my HD is rated to tow 3,000 less pounds if it had the 3.73. I'm glad I have the 4.10.

[Jshopes81]

I had an 03 tahoe, pretty close to the yukon. Try doing a tuneup on the yukon, plugs, wires, if its been awhile. These things make a difference. I dont really understand what you mean by bogging down myself. Are you trying to hold a gear? Its got an auto, the motor should rev pretty freely no matter how fast youre going. Or are you referring to speed?

[Desert Flyer]

We had an ‘01 Yukon XL with the 5.3L V8 and I can attest it was a dog towing just a heavy popup in the steep Western mountains. The 3.08 rear end was the blame. Also, the engine only made about 275 hp if the injectors were clean. Up a 6% grade, I could maintain about 45-50 mph max at a loud 4,000 rpm in 2nd gear. I didn’t feel comfortable pushing beyond that. If I switched to 3rd gear, it would pull real nice at about 3,500 rpm but then had to go about 65 mph which was too fast for my liking at those steep grades and turns. If I backed off to a lower speed then the lower rpms weren’t enugh to sustain that speed. Yup, for towing, that 3.08 was not good.

[kerplooey]

Thanks for the replies, guys. It has the 3.83 rear. We're going to do a trip closer to home next month, so we'll see how it goes. That just got home from a camping trip where I pulled the pop up a good distance then went and picked up the coyote a few days later. I may have just been spoiled by pulling that pop up for so long. Honestly, it probably could use a good tune-up. Although I would like a new truck, I really don't need to spend the money if I don't have to right now. We'll see how this trip goes and I will get back to you all. Thanks again!