Dragging entry door

[flambersky]

2004 Holiday Rambler Navigator. Door needs to be raised about 2mm it is dragging on threshold. I am considering removing hinge screws one or two at a time and drilling bottom of hinge hole so when completed I can adjust the door up. I was wondering if at that time I could add some extra holes and use self tapping screws to lock it in place. Any help would be appreciated.

[TonyMac]

Is it still square and the whole bottom is dragging, or is it out of square and the side opposite the hinge is dragging?

[JerryofWV]

I was having that problem on my 2005 Monarch. It was caused by the aluminum hinges wearing. I was able to lift up on the door and place a short piece of a coat hanger bent in a circle under the hinges around the pin and that cured the problem.

[daveandcarol]

Have a similar problem on our coach. Went to auto parts store and bought a "C" clip assortment. Wedge a fat screwdriver under the screen to raise it up and snap a clip or 2 around the hinge pin. Eventually they wear down and I have to repeat the process. Threshold appears a bit warped at latch side but I haven't tried removing it to see if it could be straightened.

[flambersky]

The side opposite the hinge is dragging. The hinge is about 54 inches long. The door frame is square, so the hinge must be sagging but looks fine.

[TonyMac]

Originally Posted by flambersky

The side opposite the hinge is dragging. The hinge is about 54 inches long. The door frame is square, so the hinge must be sagging but looks fine.

So, the door is likely no longer square, and if so, will no longer fit in a square hole without support. So let's check this hypothesis. Open the door fully. Grab the lower corner on the latch side (opposite the hinge side) and lift. Does it move and square up the door? If so, we will install a support on the bottom to hold the door in this square condition.

There may be things you can do inside the door to make it square; stuff you can tighten. On my parent's coach, there was not. So I fastened a piece of metal to the indoor side of the door like a kick plate. This piece of heavy aluminum was 18 inches tall and full width of the door. I opened the door and lifted the latch side by using a floor jack and a piece of 2x4, such that the door lifted to square and then "just beyond". I uses #8 self tapping screws, and put 4 down each vertical and four across the bottom, into the frame of the door. When the floor jack was lowered, the kick plate took up the weight of the latch side and held the door square.

i think it would have looked better in brass.

[flambersky]

Originally Posted by TonyMac

So, the door is likely no longer square, and if so, will no longer fit in a square hole without support. So let's check this hypothesis. Open the door fully. Grab the lower corner on the latch side (opposite the hinge side) and lift. Does it move and square up the door? If so, we will install a support on the bottom to hold the door in this square condition.

There may be things you can do inside the door to make it square; stuff you can tighten. On my parent's coach, there was not. So I fastened a piece of metal to the indoor side of the door like a kick plate. This piece of heavy aluminum was 18 inches tall and full width of the door. I opened the door and lifted the latch side by using a floor jack and a piece of 2x4, such that the door lifted to square and then "just beyond". I uses #8 self tapping screws, and put 4 down each vertical and four across the bottom, into the frame of the door. When the floor jack was lowered, the kick plate took up the weight of the latch side and held the door square.

i think it would have looked better in brass.

I have tried lifting doesn’t move. Will try lifting with jack later today

[stew1]

Mine also was took a 2 by 4 a foot long and a hammer putting board on hinge at top of door and lightly hitting binding hinge back ever so lightly, making sure moving the hinge toward front of rv