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Old 09-22-2015, 11:41 AM   #1
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Driver side brakes heating up way more than pass side

Since this is my first post, mods, please move it to the appropriate section if this is not the right area.

Recently, we had an issue with our Pace American 24' enclosed car trailer with the brakes on the driver side heating up to the point of bubbling the freshly painted rims. I just replaced the backing plate assembly with new ones for all 4 wheels and had the drums machined. When I pulled the driver side wheels and drums, the red grease was now a dark brownish color and had lots of metal flake in it. 3 of the 4 bearings were scored so I replaced them all with new Timken bearings and races as well as putting new seals on. Whats weird is the driver side and pass side bearings were adjusted the same way.

After replacing the bearings in the driver side, greasing the bearings, and adjusting everything, we took the trailer out for a drive now with our antique car inside for weight to test it out. After a short drive, the same thing happened. What am I missing? We are going to be traveling about 3 hrs driving out to Hershey, Pa coming up in the next couple of weeks for a major car show and we do not want to either have the grease in the hubs catch fire or be stranded on the side of the road.

Can anyone suggest what I might check next?

Oh, we had 10 volts at each of the magnets for each of the 4 wheels. Voltage read anywhere between 10.2 to 10.6 volts at each of the wheels.
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Old 09-22-2015, 02:59 PM   #2
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Tell us exactly how you adjusted the wheel bearings and the brakes.
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:20 PM   #3
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there should no voltage to brakes unless applied
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Old 09-22-2015, 05:28 PM   #4
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i agree with dakratdave. No power untill you apply brakes. As stated above sounds like you adjusted the bearings to tight or you have power to the magnet all the time.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:01 PM   #5
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Wheel bearings I'm torquing down to 50 ft. lbs per the Dexter service manual then backed off the nut to it being hand tight then locking the fold over washer tab. This same procedure was done on both the driver side and pass side.

Brakes I spin the wheel off the ground till I hear a little bit of brake drag, then back off three clicks on the star wheel.

When I tested the voltage with the brakes on inside the truck, I had between 10.2 - 10.6 with the brakes applied. The driver side seemed to have a higher voltage reading when the brakes or the manual over ride lever was depressed. When the brakes were off in the truck, we had no power at the wires for the magnets. Would it matter if I had the drums off while I was testing the voltage? When I got these readings, I had the drums off and took the readings at the wires inside the brake drum just before the magnet with a test probe.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:05 PM   #6
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Also, the trailer parts supply place in my town when I purchased the new backing plates asked what color wire I had when I called them up over the phone to see if they had the parts in stock. When I got there, they pulled them and the wires were black for the magnet. I'm wondering if they gave me the wrong backing plate assemblies that had a stronger magnet than the white wires that were on the trailer originally?

According to the Dexter service and parts manual, the white wire is for magnet part number K71-105-00 and the black wire is magnet part number K71-125-00 (7K). I wonder if the magnet got superceded to the black wire?
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:09 PM   #7
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Just a guess here, but are their primary and secondary shoes ? Could be on wrong ?
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:21 PM   #8
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Just a thought:
IMO it sounds like..... Once again IMO......
You don't know what the problem is........
I would suggest this.
#1
I assume your trailer does not have a battery for the break away switch?
Could it be your break away switch is operated / bad.
If so the trailer battery would go dead, but when you connected it to tow it would be charged and brakes would be applied all the time.

#2
Remove the wire to your brake controller and go for a ride to see if you have any heat build up.
If you have heat, then unplug the wire from the trailer. See if it still heats up.
If it still is heating up you know it is not electrical (unless the trailer has a battery)
Maybe buy a optical thermometer and see which is hotter the brake drum or the bearing area. That will point you to a brake or bearing problem.

The above should break it down to the point that you know if it is electrical or mechinical with the brakes. OR if it is a bearing problem.

Once you know where the problem is, investigate it and if you can't find the problem take it to a RV / trailer shop for help.

Logically if ALL the brakes are heating / bearings going bad you IMO have something turning on the brakes full time. That would be electrical, like the break away switch.
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Old 09-22-2015, 08:35 PM   #9
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I am not real familiar with exact layout but good with sad ones.

As I recall the magnet causes something to shift and cause shoes to engage.

Is there a right and left side?

Maybe shoes bind with brake application and fail to release fully.
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Old 09-22-2015, 09:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TQ60 View Post
I am not real familiar with exact layout but good with sad ones.

As I recall the magnet causes something to shift and cause shoes to engage.

Is there a right and left side?

Maybe shoes bind with brake application and fail to release fully.
Yes, R & L sides....., also load range, pad width & radius

ALSO the color of the wires on the magnet (most times) indicate the load range of the brake / magnet combo. All magnets need to be the same, same color wire.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:33 AM   #11
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If side specific then examine both sides.

Take photo of good side and compare to bad side.

Should be mirror image...Larger shoe on same end of trailer nor same side of photo.
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Old 09-23-2015, 08:34 PM   #12
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The sides are side specific. The only difference that was between the old original Dexter brake backing plate assemblies and the new Dexter brake backing plate assemblies was that the original magnet wire insulation color was white and the assemblies that the trailer place gave me had a black wire insulation. Prior to me going there and picking them up, I had called them and they asked me what color the wires were. I guess the next thing to do is to call them up tomorrow when they open and ask them if the white wires cross over to black as superceded item.

IF we do have the black wire rated magnets that are for 7K axles, would they engage the brakes more than what the standard magnet would? thus, potentially being the problem with the excessive heat?
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Old 09-24-2015, 01:33 AM   #13
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I am not a expert, you should contact the MFG of the brake plates etc.
What I am 100% sure of is all the magnet wires should be the same color.
If not some wheels will lock up B-4 others.
The only way this would not be true would be if different mfg's had different color codes. But if all your magnets are the same MFG, they should all be the same color wire.
As far as I know, their is no way to compensate for miss matched magnets.
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Old 09-24-2015, 06:16 AM   #14
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Ronnie,

I think you misunderstood me. All 4 of the brake magnet wires were originally white. The color wire that we got with the new backing plate assemblies were all black and not white.
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