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Old 07-20-2012, 12:12 PM   #1
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Extra Cooling mister for an RV/truck

I thought somewhere there was a company that made a mister that fit on the radiator of an RV/truck powered by a little electric pump and when the vehicle was going up a long grade the operator could turn it on and cool the radiator/engine with the mister. Anyone know of such a thing and where I could get it?
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:17 PM   #2
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Easy enough to make, use a windshield washer tank and pump with the spray as desired.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:19 PM   #3
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Or use the fresh water tank and pump with a 12v valve, T into a cold water line and plumb to the rad.
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Old 07-20-2012, 12:27 PM   #4
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Just be aware that there are some potential problems with these "crutches" for an inadequately functioning cooling system:
  • If using tap water, calcium deposits can build up over time, thus further impeding thermal transfer of heat from the radiator.
  • When operating in dusty conditions, mud can accumulate on the cooling pack fins.
  • Some domestic water can be quite corrosive to aluminum.
Some industrial engine customers try this, and the evaporative cooling it provides does indeed help - for awhile. Eventually, however, most will attempt to find and rectify the root problem behind the overheating condition.

Rusty
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:20 PM   #5
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MMMmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by 336muffin View Post
Easy enough to make, use a windshield washer tank and pump with the spray as desired.
I hadn't thought of using a windshield washer pump and tank thanks for the idea!
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Old 07-20-2012, 02:58 PM   #6
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The idea sounds interesting and the windshield washer pump idea is a good one. Rusty has a very valid point that it may help for awhile but eventually may compound the problem and make it considerably worse. Also I have numerous coolers/ radiators stacked in front of each other so it may take alot of water to soak through them all to get to the engine radiator. Would a little water help to make it worthwhile to risk the possible corrosion or mud buildup in all those radiators?
Mine only gets hot when I'm climbing and/ or it's very hot out. I believe the only "root problem " I have is the engine and cooling system was not really intended to pull 20 or 24,000 lbs + up mountains in 90+* weather, so we are all trying to improvise the best we can.
This is my 2nd engine and neither can hold the engine to the thermostaticaly controlled temperature. A Mister sounds interesting but Im not sure it would be worth the side effects.
On edit, I just looked at
mine and I also have 2 electric fans in front of the stack of radiators of which the eng. rad. is in the back, probably contributing to the so called "root problem ".
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Old 07-20-2012, 03:15 PM   #7
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I believe the only "root problem " I have is the engine and cooling system was not really intended to pull 20 or 24,000 lbs + up mountains in 90+* weather, so we are all trying to improvise the best we can.
Max,

An undersized heat exchanger (radiator, in this case) comes under my use of the term, "....an inadequately functioning cooling system."

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Old 07-20-2012, 03:29 PM   #8
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Kayjulia......I have to agree with RustyJC. The misters came out many, many years ago and didn't work then. The big concern is the crud that will quickly build and compound your issues. The better solution is a good radiator rodding/cleaning and maybe adding another core.

If finances are tight, the cheap fix would be to plan your trips with an earlier departure so that you hit grades in cool weather.
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Old 07-20-2012, 05:53 PM   #9
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When I owned a Kenworth I rerouted the water fror the condensation tube from the air conditioners out in front of the rad, this helped tremendously and with 973'000 on the odometer when I sold it with no problems and never overheated. Toured 48 states and Canada but the deserts of the south west in the heat was tough.
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Old 07-20-2012, 06:10 PM   #10
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Water from the A/C condensate drain is essentially distilled water and therefore won't have any dissolved minerals in it.

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Old 07-20-2012, 07:02 PM   #11
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I installed a spray system and killed two birds with one stone. I need as much front end weight as I can get, so I bought a Northern Tool Ag sprayer - 25 gallon - and mounted it under the front cap. An air hose carries the water back to the fan shroud where the nozzle is mounted. I trigger it with an old-fashioned bright light switch mounted on the floor next to the steering column.

On the grade north of Bishop California on 395, on a 95 degree day (at more than 5000ft altitude) it drops the engine temp from 210 to 185 in less than a minute.

I've not noticed any new crud. I'd say that it gives you a real good opportunity to clean out the radiator when the fins are warm and the existing crud is softer.
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Old 07-20-2012, 07:25 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VanDiemen23 View Post
On the grade north of Bishop California on 395, on a 95 degree day (at more than 5000ft altitude) it drops the engine temp from 210 to 185 in less than a minute.
I'm not sure why you would care if the temp gets to 210?

As a general rule there will be no harm done if the coolant temp rises above the center point in the gauge (or wherever the needle usually sits) for a while. Most factory gauges have a normal operating range and if you are within that you are OK and it's doubtful that it's worth any auxiliary cooling just to get the needle back in the center, in fact as noted above such efforts can do more harm than good.

However, if you are getting so hot that the gauge goes into the warning range and/or you are venting coolant then that's not so great...
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Old 07-21-2012, 12:14 AM   #13
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I care because max normal is 215 and it derates at 222, there's lag to consider, a lack of gauge calibration to consider, and I don't have to slow down much, drop a gear, and pull higher revs.
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Old 07-21-2012, 09:42 PM   #14
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Our first RV was a '86 E-350 Ford Chassis 27' class C with a 6.9 NA diesel. The engine was not a lot of power so I added a aftermarket turbocharger kit and propane injection. Net gain of 100 horsepower. I bought four agricultural field sprayer nozzles and a 12v solenoid valve. I made a manifold for the nozzles to spray the radiator and plumbed them to the house water tank. Pulling some of the hills here in the Northwest they were a nice addition that let me keep my foot in it when it was hot.

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