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Old 11-28-2011, 09:26 PM   #57
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I think this is on topic, just how level do you need to be to run the genny? I would think the slides would require close to perfect,
But other than that?
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:04 PM   #58
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Our DSDP's have all had HWH leveling jacks, they are rated to (more than) support the full weight of the rig for extended times. I've regularly stored the rig for the winter with the front tires completely off the ground. Been doing that since 2000 with two different DSDP's with no trouble, cracked windshields, broken welds etc.
HWH says it's OK
Spartan says it's OK
Newmar says it's OK
Now, if we had the swing down/up ones I certainly wouldn't do it.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:06 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb0zke View Post
Are they candidates for this year's Darwin Awards?
Darwin awards usually require that someone be permanently removed from the gene pool.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:09 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdennislee View Post
Wayne is spot on. Especially on blocking both duals. The sidewalls on the outer duals must be screaming from the load.
And then people blame the tires when they have a blowout!
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:14 PM   #61
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Tires off ground for a short time may not be a problem. I was talking about keeping tires off ground for days while camping. Just as long as you keep in mind that the brakes aren't holding you when changing a tire ... but I think you know that.
HWH says having the front tires off the ground for extended periods is OK.
Spartan says the same
Newmar says the same.
Left both of our DSDP's that way for six months or so, never a problem.
We do have four rams rated for 12,000#'s each and we weight 32,000#'s so we're way under the ratings.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:20 PM   #62
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The recommended jack pad is a 3/4" piece of plywood, 12" square.
The existing pads on our jacks are 11" square, a " piece of plywood isn't thick enough under ours and 12" doesn't gain much.

I use 2" X 12"s cut and placed crossgrain, glued and screwed together. Even then I've broken a couple.

I tried a stack of the Lynx blocks, crushed them.
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Old 11-28-2011, 10:26 PM   #63
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:46 AM   #64
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HWH says having the front tires off the ground for extended periods is OK.
Spartan says the same
Newmar says the same.
Left both of our DSDP's that way for six months or so, never a problem.
We do have four rams rated for 12,000#'s each and we weight 32,000#'s so we're way under the ratings.
Comsider the load on the shocks, hanging the axle weight... what does Bilstein, Koni, etc.. say?
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Old 11-29-2011, 07:24 AM   #65
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My coach has Air Leveling only. Therefore, any location that requires extreme leveling is passed by for one where leveling IS possible and easier with all four tires on the ground.

Sure wish I had the combo unit at times which is the hydraulic & air leveling unit but not worth the added expense to have the hydraulic system installed now.

I would NOT park my coach or any other vehicle that needed that much lift to make it level. Those photos are from situations where the people who have done that obviously have no common sense whatsoever.

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Old 11-29-2011, 10:14 AM   #66
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In fairness, I might have tried to level my 36' Georgie boy in places I probably wouldn't even take my 42' Revolution. Sometimes size does go a long way to dictating the kind of circumstances we find ourselves in. As a rule, if the CG has sites that are that unlevel my 42' tag isn't going to like even driving inside the CG nevermind trying to level on one of their sites? I must admit we had our 42' Phaeton in a couple of campgrounds that were really better suited to our Jeep tow'd rather than the Coach, but both times were when a big storm was right at hand and we needed a place to hunker down. I used the jacks on "manual" on those spots, just enough to sort of level the coach ... for one night it's ok in my opinion.
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Old 11-29-2011, 10:27 AM   #67
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The key point to remember is what "your" specific manual or manufacturer tells you is okay. A great percentage of manuals are on-line and free. My jack pads fit on a 12" square piece of plywood. If a set of jack pads are to big for that configuration, it would probably be better to extend those dimensions to accommodate a specific size jack pad.

As previously pointed out, solid lumber "will" crack. That is why the plywood, which is laminated, is attached to one side of the piece of lumber. the plywood will not crack and it will hold the lumber together - although maybe not indefinitely. My short ramps have had that configuration for 4 years and still holding. A single piece of plywood, cut to accommodate the dimensions of an owners RV, is considerably less likely to crack unless there is a big dip or hole under the jack area.

The pictures posted showing several blocks under the jack is most definitely not the way I would do it, for the reasons already posted.

One has to do what one has to do, but I prefer safer methods, and those prescribed by "my" manufacturer.

Happy trails.
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:13 AM   #68
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It's a simple answer for me. I wouldn't park there.
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:03 AM   #69
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ok, here's another shot from yesterday. it looks extreme but it's not really. the lot is sloped so there's a lot of space between the jacks + ground. i drive on the ramps to do most of the leveling then just use the jacks to stabilize mostly. there's not much weight on them. and with the jacks so far forward i never use them when i'm using rears or side-to-side leveling. remember, i do this for a living, i'm a professional i'm doing this stuff in about 3-5 days a week for 17 years now, setting up in the a.m. and breaking down in p.m. - cheers!
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Old 01-26-2012, 06:15 PM   #70
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My MH does not have auto leveling..Have to block it up myself. Does anyone have any pictures of blocks they have built to do the job? Would like to see them. Give me some ideas. Thx.
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