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Old 10-22-2011, 02:08 AM   #1
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extreme leveling - how do you level?

i wanted to start a thread that could illustrate the various instances of leveling our vehicles that we encounter in our journeys. so i encourage to take a pic next time you've leveled and post it - leveling knowledge is very important!

this is just west of downtown Los Angeles on Toluca St.
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Old 10-22-2011, 02:17 AM   #2
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this is at a private residence in Malibu, CA



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Old 10-22-2011, 09:48 AM   #3
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Wow! This subject should get some attention.

What I see in your pictures are things that I was taught not to do. Here are the reasons, and remember that this is just educational.

The manual for my system states to never put blocks under the leveling jacks that are more than 3 inches thick. The reason is that after everything settles and the jacks are retracted there may not be enough clearance and the RV will be hung up.

Also, never raise the rear wheels off the ground. The parking brake typically only engages the rear wheels and when they leave the ground you could have a free roling RV that could damage the leveling jacks, or worse - injure someone.

The tires, when run up on ramps (blocked) should have both tires evenly blocked. To only block one tire of a dual tire now places the entire weight that "was" distributed to the dual system on one tire. This may overload the tire and cause problems and possibly a blow-out when traveling down the highway.

Other than the 3" for the jacks, I use leveling ramps that are stored in my forward compartment. I have 3, made of 2" x 10" plank, for each front tire and each is a different length allowing for a ramp placed system when stacked on each other and a 45 degree angle is cut on one end of each plank. I also care the Lynx leveling blocks that can be added to the bottom of the stack for more height. Should I need to raise a rear side, or even both, I can use a combination of the Lynx leveling blocks and the 2 x 10 wood ramps with 3/8" plywood screwed to the top. (The plywood keeps the 2 x 10 from separating should it crack (and it will crack)) Since my Lynx leveling blocks are the type with the hexagonal ribs, I do not park my tires on them but use them as a supplement to drive up on the flat wood. I have not run into a situation where I needed to raise all corners using ramps.

Tires should be supported across the entire foot print. That is the reason I do not use the Lynx blocks as the tire foot print would only be supported on the hexagonal ridges. The 2" x 10"s will support the entire foot print, but they are a little more difficult to position to support the entire foot print, but they are considerably lighter and easier to store than 2" x 12"'s. (I use 2" x 12"'s at the stick house for the sloping driveway.)

It is imperative when ever driving up on any ramp system to have a ground person guide the maneuver. Stacking three 2" x 10"'s with 3/8's inch plywood on each one will raise that point about 7 inches. Rolling off the end of the plank system could also hang the coach.

I hope you don't take offense at my criticism as I am just posting what I believe to be true information and it is intended as constructive criticism. One has to do what one has to do in different situations.

Happy trails.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:53 AM   #4
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Yikes, I wouldn't set foot in an RV that was leveled like the ones in the images.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:29 AM   #5
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That's a little extreme for me but if I had to park on that slope I'd be blocking up the rear wheels and not putting the potential for angle strain on the jacks. I'd think a little motion the wrong way and you'd end up replacing jacks.
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:36 AM   #6
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Wayne,
Great information!
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:04 PM   #7
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Wayne M is right on as far as everything that I've been taught over the years.
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:12 PM   #8
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:02 PM   #9
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I woud :never : stand; park behind, or even go in that motorhome
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:21 PM   #10
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Wayne is spot on. Especially on blocking both duals. The sidewalls on the outer duals must be screaming from the load.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:31 PM   #11
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If I had no choise but to park on ground that steep, I'd turn my MH, raise the front, and leave the rear planted.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:32 PM   #12
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I don't understand how you can get that much blocking under each jack. If my coach tires are on the ground I only have about 10" clear. I would never support my coach lik that. I have in the past built ramps to support the front to off set a drive way at 18" with the rear on the ground.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96 Wideglide
If I had no choise but to park on ground that steep, I'd turn my MH, raise the front, and leave the rear planted.
Same here. I would never risk raising the back that high for all the reasons Wayne mentioned. Keep the back low and blocked and use/build a ramp for the front wheels.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:58 PM   #14
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Did you say "extreme leveling"?

Here's how us Pros do it: Click image for larger version

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Francesca

Wheel chocked on the other side, naturally!
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