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Old 06-04-2018, 01:37 PM   #15
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Every tire company manual I've ever read says the entire width of the tread must be supported by the blocks, not just partially or half. Full width only.
Are they the same manuals that say to never lower your air pressure below the DOT sticker ? Inspect the inside of the tire, every year, after 5 years of age ? Use no protectant on the rubber ? No balancing sand ? Sound like CYA.
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Old 06-04-2018, 01:41 PM   #16
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Those plastic blocks don't appear to be in the greatest of shape. Plus, because the tire is not making full contact, a lot of weight is pushing down on the side of the wood which in turn, is smashing one part of the plastic block below it. Looks like the raised portion is caving in to me. I wouldn't leave it like that myself.
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Old 06-04-2018, 01:44 PM   #17
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The placard tire pressure is the RV manufactures recommendation for when you are at GVWR, are you? For tire pressure, do you think the RV manufacturer knows better than the tire manufacturer?
Most Class Cs are near, or above, GVWR when loaded for travel.

Tire manufactures now say not to go below the RV manufactures placard.

Besides a slightly harsher ride, running at the sidewall pressure is not over inflated.
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Old 06-04-2018, 01:45 PM   #18
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X2!
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Old 06-04-2018, 02:50 PM   #19
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Those plastic blocks don't appear to be in the greatest of shape. Plus, because the tire is not making full contact, a lot of weight is pushing down on the side of the wood which in turn, is smashing one part of the plastic block below it. Looks like the raised portion is caving in to me. I wouldn't leave it like that myself.
That's my concern. One side of the blocks is supporting all the weight.
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:08 PM   #20
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I don't level, my hubby does but I know there is no way he would be happy with the way that tire is set. It is mostly off the wooden block then on it. He would not allow that and find another way. Might take more time but would be worth it to him.

That pic shows scary support to me.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:31 AM   #21
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But if you can drive at a lower psi, why wouldn't you?
Ride will be softer, smother, less rattles, shocks will last longer.
Besides, you also want to know if you are overweight, so get it weighted. Only $10 at most Truck scales for 2 axles. Not as good as 4 corner but better than none.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:39 AM   #22
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That's what shocks and springs are for! Its a truck, not a caddy. 87000 miles and it rides much better with upgraded shocks.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:55 AM   #23
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Ugh. I tried for over an hour to get level. Blocks kept moving. Tried so many different things. I don't really have enough blocks to do it how I would like to.
Finally got level, but, not totally centered on the front passenger side tire. Seems stable enough, however, I'm slightly worried about tire damage. The tires are good (2016) and inflated about to suggested 80 lbs. and the rv is a 29 ft. Class c. Will only be here for 1 week and the tire is not in direct sunlight. Think it's ok to leave it like this or will it cause tire damage? Thanks in advance everyone.

Attachment 205624

Attachment 205625
If it were me, I would get more wood (2 x 6) and make a better approach ramp and fix this set up so the entire tire was on the supporting blocks. I carry plenty of the wood for these occasions and even put under the jacks if the ground calls for it. I am sure that for one week this is not going to damage anything but I would not accept this set up.
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Old 06-05-2018, 09:00 AM   #24
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2x 10's, 2x12's, are cheap...(use the cheap wood, works just fine) I'm still using the blocks I made from those many years ago.... As others have said, the whole tire should be supported...
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Old 06-05-2018, 10:27 AM   #25
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That's what shocks and springs are for! Its a truck, not a caddy. 87000 miles and it rides much better with upgraded shocks.

And could ride even better with correct air pressure in the tires!
And maybe tires and shocks even last longer!
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Old 06-05-2018, 10:39 AM   #26
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