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Old 12-01-2013, 11:03 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by myredracer View Post
There'd be no useful purpose in a breaker in a single recept. like the Op's one, then you'd have one in the RV, one in the remote recept. and one back in the house.
The useful purpose for having a breaker at the receptacle is to allow one to plug/unplug with the breaker in the "off" position - it's easier on the contacts if they are connected without any current flowing. ON a 30A line it's not as critical, but with a 50A outlet it's common for the user to "rock" the plug into the outlet, so that the ground connects first, then the two hots, and finally the neutral. Without that neutral connection the RV sees 240V and exciting things can happen. But if there is a breaker there that you can shut off, then when you plug in, or unplug, there is no need to worry since there's no power there until you flip the breaker.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:06 PM   #30
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The useful purpose for having a breaker at the receptacle is to allow one to plug/unplug with the breaker in the "off" position
That's why I recommended in the very beginning of this thread that the OP install a disconnect switch. Breakers do not make the best of devices for switching purposes. They aren't really designed for switching duty and 30 & 50 amp breakers don't have an "SWD" designation like on 15 amp breakers that are available for this purpose. That's one reason they get "tired" in a cg pedestal. Also, the OP was specifically asking about using something like the Home Depot "Temporary RV Power Outlet" which is a single 30A recept. in a weatherproof housing and has NO breaker in it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202307113?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=202307113&R=202307113# .UpzC4dnTm1t The description mentions a buss inside it also. He didn't inquire about using a cg type pedestal.

The OP also specifically asks about installing a 30A outlet. Judging by his photo, he only needs a 30A outlet. Why go to all the extra work and expense if he only needs a 30A plus he'd always have to use a dogbone adapter. If he goes with 1" conduit, he could always pull in larger 50A wire later.

This is how I did our 30A receptacle including a weatherproof disconnect switch (motor-rated). It's all PVC and won't ever rust.

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Old 12-02-2013, 01:35 PM   #31
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With these calls for a larger capacity conduit or an extra conduit...Wise to go ahead and install some pull wires/tapes.cords for future use?
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Old 12-02-2013, 07:27 PM   #32
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With these calls for a larger capacity conduit or an extra conduit...Wise to go ahead and install some pull wires/tapes.cords for future use?
If you are pulling wire into a conduit and it's oversized and can take extra wires later, put the extra pull cord in when you pull the wires in. Otherwise chances are you will have to pull the original wires out and pull back in along with the pull cord.

If it's just going to sit empty, you don't have to install the pull cord but it might be easier to do in the beginning, esp. if it in a wet location since conduit can fill up with water. Otherwise if it's dry, you can suck it through with a string first with a piece of plastic bag at the end then use the string to pull through the heavier pull cord.


The difference in cost between 1/2", 3/4" and 1" PVC conduit really isn't a lot. I like to use 1" since it has lots of room for more wires in the future, makes pulling wire in easier and also since many PVC outlet boxes have a hub for 1" conduit as standard.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:36 PM   #33
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That's why I recommended in the very beginning of this thread that the OP install a disconnect switch. Breakers do not make the best of devices for switching purposes. They aren't really designed for switching duty and 30 & 50 amp breakers don't have an "SWD" designation like on 15 amp breakers that are available for this purpose. That's one reason they get "tired" in a cg pedestal. Also, the OP was specifically asking about using something like the Home Depot "Temporary RV Power Outlet" which is a single 30A recept. in a weatherproof housing and has NO breaker in it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202307113?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=202307113&R=202307113# .UpzC4dnTm1t The description mentions a buss inside it also. He didn't inquire about using a cg type pedestal.

The OP also specifically asks about installing a 30A outlet. Judging by his photo, he only needs a 30A outlet. Why go to all the extra work and expense if he only needs a 30A plus he'd always have to use a dogbone adapter. If he goes with 1" conduit, he could always pull in larger 50A wire later.

This is how I did our 30A receptacle including a weatherproof disconnect switch (motor-rated). It's all PVC and won't ever rust.

I say just do it once and do it right. The RV boxes I installed all have a breaker switch. I always shut them off before plugging in anything. 50-30 or 20 amp. He is not running a camp ground and the breakers will probably outlast him. Then he can use the box for his thirty amp RV, have 20 amp available for who knows what, and a 50 amp service which he will probably need someday. Cost a lot more to revamp later. Only cost a little more to go first class. And these RV boxes are weather proof . They are not that expensive. Just do it. And no dog bone needed. You can plug in anything. Even a 220 welder if you want.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:03 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myredracer View Post
That's why I recommended in the very beginning of this thread that the OP install a disconnect switch. Breakers do not make the best of devices for switching purposes. They aren't really designed for switching duty and 30 & 50 amp breakers don't have an "SWD" designation like on 15 amp breakers that are available for this purpose. That's one reason they get "tired" in a cg pedestal. Also, the OP was specifically asking about using something like the Home Depot "Temporary RV Power Outlet" which is a single 30A recept. in a weatherproof housing and has NO breaker in it. http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202307113?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=202307113&R=202307113# .UpzC4dnTm1t The description mentions a buss inside it also. He didn't inquire about using a cg type pedestal.

The OP also specifically asks about installing a 30A outlet. Judging by his photo, he only needs a 30A outlet. Why go to all the extra work and expense if he only needs a 30A plus he'd always have to use a dogbone adapter. If he goes with 1" conduit, he could always pull in larger 50A wire later.

This is how I did our 30A receptacle including a weatherproof disconnect switch (motor-rated). It's all PVC and won't ever rust.

I believe the problem here is a misunderstanding of the term disconnect. It is NOT a breaker in a box. As previously stated, a breaker is not intended to be used as a disconnect.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:30 PM   #35
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This is what it says inside a RV box.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:31 PM   #36
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Also inside the same box. Note, above the breakers it says service disconect.
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