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Old 12-10-2017, 08:22 AM   #1
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Freezer freezing, fridge not so much

I may have found my first issue. The freezer appears to be freezing fine but I知 not feeling any temp drop in the fridge. Going to check it with a thermometer just Incase it痴 me.

If the fridge is not getting cold, what are my options? Is it fixable or better to just replace it? It痴 a norcold 2 way.

Thanks
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:28 AM   #2
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Had one of them, same problem. Added fan in fridge section, fan on cooling fins, etc,.etc,. Now have residential fridge. No problem.........
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Old 12-10-2017, 08:32 AM   #3
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How long has it been on? The fridge will reach temp well before the refrigerator section, it trails the freezer. It can take a few (4-5) hours before you'll notice a change.
Some people say placing a bottle of water in the lower compartment can help speed up the process.
And you definitely want to get a thermometer!
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:03 AM   #4
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Circulating fan in refer area helps a bunch, only put precisely food in refer as much as possible. Do not stuff it too full as it will hinder circulation, minimize open door time. Open door, get what you want, and close it.

And yes, a thermometer to monitor things. We put in an Amish cooling unit and noticed a great improvement in performance although our primary reason was safety. Freezer runs about+2-5, refer 38-40. To be fair we did install the interior fan then as well as two exterior fans to promote air flow.

If your freezer is near 0, then the refer compartment should be fine.
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Old 12-10-2017, 09:49 AM   #5
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I had the same problem, freezer was cold, refrig was too warm. Replaced the thermistor and problem solved. Thermistor is the small device clipped onto the cooling fin in the back of refrig compartment.

A quick google search will reveal how to test and where to locate the thermistor. It is a simple install involving 2 wires attached to refrig interior light. Usually the metal clip holding it onto the cooling fin is rusted and can be replaced at the same time. All the best.
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Old 12-10-2017, 11:16 AM   #6
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First, not all reffers have the thermistor mentioned above. Only one of my last three units had it.

Is this a single door fridge? On my current side by side there are two switches above the door opening that control each side. I can run the freezer without the fridge or vice versa. I usually plug our unit in about three days ahead of departure and put a gallon jug frozen in the freezer to help get it cooled down.

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Old 12-10-2017, 01:14 PM   #7
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If your frig is in a slide it will have a side vent rather then a roof vent in this case it would need a fan to move air over the condenser in warm weather. Make sure your door seal is sealing. Is the freezer at or below 0 degrees? If it is only getting down to say 20 deg f. the internal piping could be crystallized . It is common for the freezer to be somewhat cool and the main part of the frig to be warm when this happens. If this were the case you would need a new frig or the internal piping replaced. I had to replace my internal piping last year ,I used the Amish one as it is supposed to be better. Good luck hope it is an easy fix.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:46 PM   #8
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"rerevolution"......Your refer is a Norcold 1200LRIM. They were so problematic, some even catching fire, that many just replace them when they do what yours is doing. If you do a search, you'll find many threads about the Norcold 1200. Typically, when one does what yours is doing, it's toast. There are two companies that sell an entire cooling unit for the rear of your refer, about $1100.00 plus install. The refer has to be removed and to do the cooling unit replacement. Even with the replacement, the refer still doesn't work that well. Some will say theirs is great. but the MAJORITY of Norcold 1200 owners have issues.

Another problem, things like the door seals are NOT replaceable. On your 12 year old coach, those seals are starting to get tired. The door has to be replaced to get new seals.

With all that said, most people just replace the refer with a residential unit. It will be the best decision you ever make, unless you boon dock all the time. Samsung makes one that is pretty much a direct fit, width and depth wise, but needs a few more inches at the top or bottom, wherever your space has extra room. A new Samsung is about $1100.00. There are at least a dozen posts on here about residential refer installs. I've did one on my 2005 Diplomat and two more for friends. Pretty easy if you're handy.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:56 PM   #9
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Thanks guys. I haven’t had time to dig deeper, but I’m strongly considering the residential retrofit. I like the idea of running the fridge on propane while under way, but we don’t really boondock for long periods of time. It has a Trace inverter. Don’t know it it’s true or modified sine wave though. That might run the fridge.
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Old 12-11-2017, 07:04 AM   #10
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I had my cooling unit replaced with the Amish built unit. I can say that I am very happy with the performance. My temp is set to 6 and my beer is nearly frozen. If you decide not to do a residential, I highly recommend the Amish option. Also, if you are indeed near Jackson, TN then you are only 80 miles from rvcoolingwarehouse. They sell the Amish unit and I am pretty sure they do installs there.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:07 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake21 View Post
I had my cooling unit replaced with the Amish built unit. I can say that I am very happy with the performance. My temp is set to 6 and my beer is nearly frozen. If you decide not to do a residential, I highly recommend the Amish option. Also, if you are indeed near Jackson, TN then you are only 80 miles from rvcoolingwarehouse. They sell the Amish unit and I am pretty sure they do installs there.
J
When we wanted to get the Amish cooling unit I contacted the place in Memphis. Very, very helpful but all they do is schedule you to go to JC refrigeration in Shipshewanna, IN for the install. This is where the units are made. I was very impressed with the entire operation and JR was fantastic. We also had the outside fans mounted on the high mounted external cooling fins and an inside fan to keep the air even inside the refer part. It now works perfectly.

For safety I also sprang the extra $200 for the helium charge vs the stock hydrogen and had a self actuating halon fire extinguisher mounted outside on the bottom of the compartment since Norcold does not have the best reputation when it comes to fires.

JC Refrigeration is the place. Beware, there are other shops in the area but they do not manufacture new units but just purge, pressure test and reinstall the same one you had.
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:20 AM   #12
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never EVER will have another "rv" fridge... threw away too much food when they didn't cool !
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Old 12-11-2017, 08:52 PM   #13
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Gonna nip this in the bud and go with the residential option. I think I’ll go with something like a counter depth 2 door, top freezer bottom fridge sort of unit. Something that will fit in the existing hole. There is a furnace under the fridge and not a ton of room above it.
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:26 PM   #14
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I put a GE 14.4 cu ft top freezer model in my '04 and it fit with width & height to spare. Wasn't counter depth either (those tend to be large and pricey). Depth was just perfect, but the 15 cu ft model needed about 3/8" too much space for the doors to swing fully open. Measure carefully - every floor plan and model has slightly different needs. Residential fridge makers provide detailed dimensions on their website, including door swings with & without handles attached.

Also make sure yu can get it through the entry door. Else you have to remove a window or windshield.
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