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Old 11-18-2014, 09:52 AM   #15
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I have no idea.....sorry cannot help with that too many different floor plans. Rook
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Old 11-18-2014, 09:56 AM   #16
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Ok thanks. Just wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:04 AM   #17
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You say you feel the heat outside at the vent which is good but if your system and coach are cold its going to take a while before the interior walls cabinets warm up to where you will be comfortable, its not instant heat.
Its in reverse of your refrigerator takes time for it to cool down.
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Old 11-18-2014, 10:08 AM   #18
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Right but the air coming out of the floor vents isn't warm. So there is something wrong somewhere.
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:18 PM   #19
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Kicked on the furnace a month or so ago to make sure all was running well before the cool weather kicked in. Ran like a champ and kicked out good heat. Well now here we are and its cold, kicked on the furnace and its not kicking out that same heat that it was. Any ideas or thoughts on where I should start? I know its getting the propane as the blower outside is kicking out heat. Just need to know where I should start as it is going to be in the 20's here the next few nights and space heaters only heat so much.

Thanks
I had a similar problem recently for two different reasons. The first time was a Walmart dry camp on a cold night. We ran the LR slider out, but left the recliners in travel position against the furnace air intake. The furnace was putting out only 60 degree air. When we got home I opened the slides to unpack and moved the recliner out to get something and realized the air intake was there so I tried the furnace and it put out plenty of heat.
We ran the slides in a few days later and the LR slide covers one of the two LR heat ducts. When I started the furnace to do some work, I noticed again that I was getting reduced heat so I ran the slide out enough to clear the vent and it warmed up quickly.
So any blocking of the air flow can reduce the temperature of the air from the furnace. BTW, my furnace intake is a louvered panel in the kitchen cabinet which is where the furnace is.
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Old 11-18-2014, 12:23 PM   #20
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The TT is currently parked with the slide out. But it has been moved since the last time I tried it. Darn things are confusing.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:10 PM   #21
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Is your heater ducted or does it have only one outlet?
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Old 11-19-2014, 07:54 AM   #22
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four different registeres
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:25 AM   #23
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Furnace is Atwood Model 8531-IV-DCLP


Any information about this would be great. I did vacuum the vents last night.
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:27 AM   #24
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Just about everything can be repaired on an Atwood Furnace without removing the unit from the RV. If this were mine, I would remove the front cover, remove the squirrel cage fan housing (4 screws) and clean, brush and vacuum everything, especially the fan blades. Here is a video for replacing the fan motor, but it will give you a look inside and how to remove the fan housing. Also, when he removes the circuit board, there is an open grid just to the right of the board.....that is the grid that covers the cold air intake to the heater blower.....make sure it is clean. Click on the link at the top of the picture to get a larger video. Rook

All Seasons Mobile RV Repair - Atwood furnace motor removal - YouTube
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:49 AM   #25
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Thank you!
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Old 11-19-2014, 10:56 AM   #26
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An Atwood has a pair of squirel cage fans on a single motor. One fan blows air through the burner section. That is why you feel forced air at the exhaust port. The second fan on the same motor is what circulated the return air through the heat exchanger and to the supply ducts. It is possible that this fan has come loose on the shaft, or the fan or shaft have broken.

The only way to be sure is to partially disassemble the heater and observe the circulation fan which is exposed.

As a possible "quick check" take a sheet of news paper and hold it over the return air grill. If it isn't sucked tight to the grill when running, you have a fan problem.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:19 AM   #27
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Quote, "As a possible "quick check" take a sheet of news paper and hold it over the return air grill. If it isn't sucked tight to the grill when running, you have a fan problem."
This works great "if" there is a grilled and ducted cold air return. However, on some RV's and especially TT's, the cold air return is not "grilled" or ducted to the heater......it's just a screened opening under a cabinet or some built-in furniture and open space to the cold-air intake on the furnace. Like my coach...... Rook
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Old 11-19-2014, 02:49 PM   #28
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Quote, "As a possible "quick check" take a sheet of news paper and hold it over the return air grill. If it isn't sucked tight to the grill when running, you have a fan problem."
This works great "if" there is a grilled and ducted cold air return. However, on some RV's and especially TT's, the cold air return is not "grilled" or ducted to the heater......it's just a screened opening under a cabinet or some built-in furniture and open space to the cold-air intake on the furnace. Like my coach...... Rook
That's a good point, but since you don't know how the OP's is ducted, It's pointless!
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