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Old 03-01-2016, 11:43 AM   #15
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thanks rick!! i think ms2812 would be good enough for me, for the size (dimensions), the wattage and the pricing. on the other hand, the higher wattage one, msh3012m, costs much more for merely 200w extra plus the "hybrid" function but do i really need that? so i should be happy going with an ms2812 i guess. the remaining thing is to get a good deal .

i did notice that two versions of the remote me-rc50 and me-arc50 are out there. need to do some homework on what their differences are... the manuals say they are using twisted pair cable (not a straight 4 pole phone line) as oppose to a straight phone line i am using. well, need to find a small short piece of twisted pair and couple it to the existing line...
We are often on 30A service. I think the hybrid inverter would really come in handy in these situations, depending on the sub-panel configuration for load demand. The Magnum site has lots of info, including the user/installation manuals in pdf.

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Old 03-01-2016, 11:57 PM   #16
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thank you all for the info helping me make up my mind.
best to you and happy trails!!
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:22 PM   #17
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thank you all for the info helping me make up my mind.
best to you and happy trails!!
Keep us in the loop. Pictures of what you do will be real nice.

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Old 03-10-2016, 07:11 PM   #18
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Keep us in the loop. Pictures of what you do will be real nice.

Rick Y
Rick, Here is the latest...

I intended to get a Magnum MSH3012M. While searching, I ran into a deal I felt I couldn't resist... It's a used MS2812, about 40% of cost that a new unit from iMarine would go for. The seller is an old boater. He said this one was failed 3 years ago he couldn't wait so he bought a new one for his boat. When all was set he sent this one back to the manufacturer for repair. Magnum found out that there was a loose wire inside the box and they fixed it. This one has since been sitting in his garage he just wanted to get it out. Well, knowing there is always a risk buying a used, but after talking to him, I felt worth trying.

Today it arrived through UPS. I am going to test it tomorrow... Here are a few photos:



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Old 03-10-2016, 08:01 PM   #19
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I would have been on that deal like a cheap suit. Good snag
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:33 PM   #20
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I would have been on that deal like a cheap suit. Good snag
i should know if i had a good bet tomorrow msh3012m the one you have is real robust
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Old 03-12-2016, 05:56 PM   #21
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tested and appeared to be working. there was a drama though - when i first powered it up, the ac output only showed 40v give and take. reread the instruction, it required a small load of 10-25w light bulb to test because of its sensing function; after that, it output 120v. auto transfer was good too. phew!

remaining is to find a slot to swap out the freedom 20d. the instruction recommends upgrading to 4/0 cables for DC to battery pack. did you guys change the cables or keep using the original 2/0 cables?
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:22 PM   #22
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A lot of people don't understand the "search" mode of inverters and think something is wrong, looks like you figured it out.

I kept the original battery cables on my installation.
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:39 AM   #23
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i thought the same, 4/0 cables sounds like an overkill - i don't think the current could ever go that high (4/0 in 380a chassis wiring); 283a (2/0) would be more than enough. my single roof a/c is 1500w, that's only 110a nominal. even max the inverter out, with 88% efficiency, it could only output 182a, far below than 2/0 cables can handle. no worry.
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Old 03-13-2016, 12:44 PM   #24
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tested and appeared to be working. there was a drama though - when i first powered it up, the ac output only showed 40v give and take. reread the instruction, it required a small load of 10-25w light bulb to test because of its sensing function; after that, it output 120v. auto transfer was good too. phew!

remaining is to find a slot to swap out the freedom 20d. the instruction recommends upgrading to 4/0 cables for DC to battery pack. did you guys change the cables or keep using the original 2/0 cables?
Glad to hear the good report.

About the cable. DC is much more sensitive to loss over distance. Bigger cable means less loss. When you are running your normal heavy load on the inverter, like the convection oven, measure the voltage, with your voltmeter, at the batteries and again at the inverter. (I don't rely on the onboard meters for accuracy.) The difference from the batteries to the inverter is the loss of the cabling. The ideal situation is a reading of the same voltage at both ends. A couple of 10th is not a big loss but a half volt or more I consider a problem. The higher the working voltage is at the inverter the cooler your inverter will run. You pull less amps with a higher voltage. Power (watts) equals voltage times current. The inverter is a demanding beast and the power it wants, to do its job, it will get or it will quit. Current produces heat heat in the inverter because of the resistances natural to the components. More current: More heat.

I hope this simplified explanation is helpful.

You can find many electrical sites for calculating the loss of your cabling for the distance you are going from the batteries to the inverter. Here is an example of such a site: Voltage Drop Calculator I plugged in the values. If you use your actual metered voltage you will see the change in values as in this example: Voltage Drop Calculator

Happy trails,
Rick Y
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Old 03-13-2016, 01:43 PM   #25
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Rick, Here is the latest...

I intended to get a Magnum MSH3012M. While searching, I ran into a deal I felt I couldn't resist... It's a used MS2812, about 40% of cost that a new unit from iMarine would go for. The seller is an old boater. He said this one was failed 3 years ago he couldn't wait so he bought a new one for his boat. When all was set he sent this one back to the manufacturer for repair. Magnum found out that there was a loose wire inside the box and they fixed it. This one has since been sitting in his garage he just wanted to get it out. Well, knowing there is always a risk buying a used, but after talking to him, I felt worth trying.

Today it arrived through UPS. I am going to test it tomorrow... Here are a few photos:



That is just what I have. Very good unit. Boats take a lot of pounding and that could have loosened the wire. See if Magnum will send you a pair of the protective covers and bolts for the DC connections. Off the top of my head I don't recall if the bolts are of a special material or not. Your old ones may work fine.

I love updates like this. It means you are one step closer to doing what RVing is all about: "RVing"!!!!

Smores to yea!

Rick Y
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Old 03-13-2016, 02:12 PM   #26
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Thank you Rick, very instrumental!! On my rig, the space for inverter is right above the battery bank; DC cables run about 3 feet if I change the routing a little bit. I'll look around if there is a cable company near me to make two.

So far I am very happy for what I got now. At this time I have 1200w solar panels on the roof; I still have space for 3 more panels. I plan to add 3 more to make it total about 2000w (very simple I just need to anchor them and connect the wires to the combiner box). By then I will change the wiring to make A/C running on battery pack (My battery is 700AH lithium with 28 3.2v 100AH cells. According to CALB, the cells are spec'ed as 100AH each, but the actual capacity is 110-114AH. I talked with them the other day, they confirmed it. That means I might have close to 800AH in real world).

It's fun... Happy trails!!
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:13 PM   #27
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Thank you Rick, very instrumental!! On my rig, the space for inverter is right above the battery bank; DC cables run about 3 feet if I change the routing a little bit. I'll look around if there is a cable company near me to make two.

So far I am very happy for what I got now. At this time I have 1200w solar panels on the roof; I still have space for 3 more panels. I plan to add 3 more to make it total about 2000w (very simple I just need to anchor them and connect the wires to the combiner box). By then I will change the wiring to make A/C running on battery pack (My battery is 700AH lithium with 28 3.2v 100AH cells. According to CALB, the cells are spec'ed as 100AH each, but the actual capacity is 110-114AH. I talked with them the other day, they confirmed it. That means I might have close to 800AH in real world).

It's fun... Happy trails!!
I'm impressed! Good cabling install and lithium battery bank! Will the Magnum support them? What settings are you going to use? Do you have special alarm/cutout circuits on your cells? I would love to go lithium but with their sensitivity to temperature change and charging specs I don't know if I have the savvy to handle them correctly.

You are a hero to me. Keep us posted with the performance and issues you run into. You are on the leading edge of a very sharp blade. Change you handle to TRAILBLAZER.

Happy and safe travels,

Rick Y
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:18 AM   #28
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Will the Magnum support them? What settings are you going to use? Do you have special alarm/cutout circuits on your cells?
The nicest thing about Magnum is all its parameters custom configurable. It will no doubt support the lithium system. The charging settings would mimic that of Midnite 150 that I am using. 14v charging, 13.5v floating, and there are other settings such as absorption time, and rebulk voltage, etc etc.

i do have balancing boards and bms. While I am using Heart Interface 20D, I turn off shore power and alternator to the battery; when stationing/dry camping, I turn on the connections. It works for me.

when i tore down the PO's 170w and re-installed 1200w system last year, i had a sight on increasing the size, therefore everything is in place already. once the inverter is done, the remaining tasks are easy.

cheers
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