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Old 10-05-2011, 09:18 AM   #29
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You really should at least clean the rotten decking out and leave the area open for a while it can dry out some. Otherwise when you seal the roof with the Eternabond you will be trapping the moisture.
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Old 10-05-2011, 12:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jminyard View Post
I talked with a tech support guy at EternaBond yesterday and he did not recommend placing the wood on top of the rubber roof and taping over it. He said that the EternaBond would not stick good to the wood without using what he called an "adhesive enhancer" which they have, but I won't be able to get it before we leave. I'm gonna go ahead and slit the rubber roof, place the plywood under the rubber, screw it down to solid wood around it, then use the EternaBond to cover the slits in the rubber roof over the wood. He thought this was the best way to do. I will probably be doing that tommorrow and will let you know how I make out. Wish me luck!
Sounds like a plan.. Who told you to put wood over the rubber?
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Old 10-05-2011, 01:22 PM   #31
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Hi, Joe

What if you were to clean the rotted wood out and replace it with a piece of fiberglass?
Wouldn't the Eternabond stick to that?
Those kitchen/bath fiberglass wall panels come to mind as possible materials, with the untextured side up. If they're too thin maybe you could double-layer them.

Just a thought!

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Old 10-05-2011, 03:26 PM   #32
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Sounds like a plan.. Who told you to put wood over the rubber?
Someone earlier in the thread thought that would be better than splitting the rubber roof, and it did sound like a good idea, but EternaBond says no.
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:29 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by texnet View Post
You really should at least clean the rotten decking out and leave the area open for a while it can dry out some. Otherwise when you seal the roof with the Eternabond you will be trapping the moisture.
That sounds like a good idea! I'll open it up tommorrow morning, maybe even put an electric fan up there blowing in the hole. I think a full day in the sun should be enough to dry it out, don't you? Thanks Ronnie!
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:32 PM   #34
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Hi, Joe

What if you were to clean the rotted wood out and replace it with a piece of fiberglass?
Wouldn't the Eternabond stick to that?
Those kitchen/bath fiberglass wall panels come to mind as possible materials, with the untextured side up. If they're too thin maybe you could double-layer them.

Just a thought!

Francesca
You're probably right, the Eternabond would stick to that. But if I did that I would not be able to open it up and let it dry out as was suggested above. I have already got the plywood ready so I guess I'll just go on that way. Thanks anyway!
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Old 10-05-2011, 03:42 PM   #35
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Something else the EternaBond tech suggested was to put a bead of white polyurethane caulk around the edges of the tape, especially on the leading edges where the rain will be hitting it when driving. This will protect the tape and also improve the appearance, since the underside of the tape is gray or black. I thought I might have trouble finding the caulk, but Lowes had it. It's called PL polyurethane Window, Door & Siding Sealant. The clerk at Lowes said they didn't have any polyurethane caulk, but I decided to look for myself!

Boy, the thought of taking a razor knife & slitting that rubber roof gives me the shivers! Wish me luck tommorrow!
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:19 AM   #36
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Well, today's the big day. I picked up a can of Acetone from Lowes yesterday to clean the rubber roof where the EternaBond will be applied. The next step is to take a razor knife to that rubber roof! For those of you who know the Man upstairs, I could sure use some help!
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:00 AM   #37
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Joe , being a trailer builder (TDs and TTTs ) ... I’d recommend feathering the edges of the ply to eliminate any sharp edges, countersinking the screws , making the E-tape easier to attach and more secure ( E-tape doesn’t like “bumps “ ) , and sealing the replacement plywood before installing it ... I use a thrifty mixture of 75% Mineral Spirits and 25% Polyurethane varnish ... several coats really encapsulates the wood , greatly lessening any chance of rot in the future ...well tested over many years in outdoor conditions !!! If all the wood in RVs was so treated , it would eliminate many of the problems we read about here daily ...
If you’re going to patch it , might as well make it a Good patch !!!

And be sure to carefully inspect your roof often and thoroughly , even a tiny leak can cause expensive damage with these untreated materials found on commercial RVs ...
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Old 10-07-2011, 11:05 AM   #38
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Joe , being a trailer builder (TDs and TTTs ) ... I’d recommend feathering the edges of the ply to eliminate any sharp edges, countersinking the screws , making the E-tape easier to attach and more secure ( E-tape doesn’t like “bumps “ ) , and sealing the replacement plywood before installing it ... I use a thrifty mixture of 75% Mineral Spirits and 25% Polyurethane varnish ... several coats really encapsulates the wood , greatly lessening any chance of rot in the future ...well tested over many years in outdoor conditions !!! If all the wood in RVs was so treated , it would eliminate many of the problems we read about here daily ...
If you’re going to patch it , might as well make it a Good patch !!!

And be sure to carefully inspect your roof often and thoroughly , even a tiny leak can cause expensive damage with these untreated materials found on commercial RVs ...
I appreciate you suggestions! I talked to the tech people at Dicor, who made the rubber roof, to find out what kind of adhesive to use to stick the rubber roof to the plywood plate. They told me that it had to something that did not contain petroleum distillates. All the polyurethane adhesive I looked at had this stuff. If that's true, wouldn't it be a problem to treat the plywood with the polyurethane varnish?

Thanks again for your help!
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:56 PM   #39
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did u cut it open yet? you might wanna hook up a IV too..
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:16 PM   #40
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did u cut it open yet? you might wanna hook up a IV too..
Well, it's been a long day. I made the incision this morning (the patient didn't even scream). It was far worse than I thought. The particle board had completely come apart over an area of about 16" x 9". I got it all cleaned out and cut the 1/4" exterior plywood a little larger than the hole and tapered all the edges. I placed it over the hole and secured it with screws every 2" around the edge. Then came the problem. I could not find any rubber roof adhesive within a 100 miles without buying a gallon at $75.00, and that was 60 miles away! I called Dicor who made the rubber roof to ask about some other type adhesive that I could get at Lowes to stick the rubber to the wood. They told me it had to be something that didn't have petroleum distillates. I finally found a can of spray adhesive without the petroleum. I glued the rubber down to the wood plate and am letting it dry overnight. I'm not real happy with the way it turned out...there are some bubbles under the rubber but hopefully the Eternabond tape will cover up all that. I'm putting the Eternabond on tommorrow and will give you a final report then.
I did find out one thing though, you can't always depend on tech support giving you accurate information! Remember I said that Dicor told me not to use anything with petroleum distillates? Well, the guy at Eternabond had told me to run a bead of polyurethane caulk around the edge of the Eternabond to seal out rain, etc. Guess what, the polyurethane caulk contains petroleum distillates! When I called and confronted him with this info, he stammered a while and finally admitted that he didn't know about this!
I'm calling it a day!!
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Old 10-08-2011, 06:43 AM   #41
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Its foggy up here n harpers ferry...
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Old 10-08-2011, 04:52 PM   #42
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Well, it's done! I put enough EternaBond tape up there to hold back the Mississippi river! That's one problem I won't have to worry about for a LONG time!
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