Help please

[clyon51]

Cathie,

I think you've cleared it up. Yes he did what he did so you can use more appliances at the same time when you are using a 50a hookup. What he did does nothing when you are on a 30a hookup.

The diiference of the two is when on 50a, the breaker on the pole will never trip because of an overload in the trailer. It would only be a breaker in the trailer. On 30a, the breaker on the pole would trip anytime you exceed using 30a. All this in itself is not a dangerous condition as you are protected from overload either way. Just explaing what to expect.

This electrician was trying to give you something extra. However, what he did was give you a non-standard RV electrical system. I can tell you as a many year 30a user, I don't think this modification's added convienience is going to be worth the hassle you may encounter later.

Here's where I see a problem. You need a surge protector or an EMS. They come in single phase 30a and dual phase 50a (100a total). Now you have niether. If I were you, i would contact Progressive Industries tech support to see if they can fix you up with something that will protect you. If not, I would get that 30a panel back in there. A little convienience is not worth a fried electrical system and/or a pile of ashes.

[IMDSailor]

Originally Posted by CathieS

Okay, I think it's me that is confusing everybody. Nothing was done to the outside plug to my rig. So, it's still a 30 amp plug.

Without relizing it you answered your own question...It's still 30 AMPs

Originally Posted by CathieS

He changed the breaker box from 30 amp to 45 amp.

I'm going to go on a limb here and say he was a house electrician not a RV Electrician. As I mentioned before it's a different skill set. RV's are not wired like a house.

Originally Posted by CathieS

I'm plugged into a 50 amp spot with an adapter to 30 amp..

Therefore your still only able to draw 30 AMPs. If you have a look at your adapter, in RV Speak "Dogbone", you will see that the 30 Amp end has only 3 prongs (One Hot, One Neutral, One Ground) the 50 Amp end has 4 (Two Hots, One neutral, One Ground). The adapter(Dogbone) does just that it, adapts the 4 wires to 3 by removing one of the Hots. Therfore less Amperage passing through the cord. You should also note that wire for a 30 Amp cord is smaller than wire for a 50 Amp cord and not able to handle the same amout of current per wire.
This, to me, rasies an interesting question. With the ability to draw more power because of the 45 Amp box and more power available at the post, 50 Amps, will the 30 Amp section of shore cable get hot? The answer to that is way beyond my knowledge level. It may be nothing, because of the dogbone. But, it may turn the 30 Amp shore cord into a light bulb filiment. I don't know.

Originally Posted by CathieS

So, if I understand correctly, I still need a 30 amp surge protector, and continue to use my 50 to 30 amp adapter. Basically, he just made it so I can use more of my appliances at a time?

Yes, you should only require a 30 Amp surge protector. Remember RV surge protecters protect from both Over and Under voltage. Both the 30 and 50 will trip at the same Under voltage, the differance being in a Over voltage situation, the 30 Amp would trip sooner. Under voltage is created when you have to many appliances trying to operate at the same time with not enough power coming into the RV to supply them, this seems to be the problem your electrician tried to fix, by giving you the ablity to draw more power, but again it's still coming through a 30 Amp cord, or not enough power being supplied by the Campground to the post, nothing anybody can do, except of course for the CG, to change that. Over voltage would be like a power pole being struck by lightening sending more energy down the power line than the system was designed for and frying everything in it's path, should that happen the Over voltage side of the protecter kicks in and isolates you RV from the problem. Actually it does that in both situations, too much supply or too much demand.

Originally Posted by CathieS

Or, just spent money I didn't need to spend?

Sorry to say...Yes or atleast maybe. As near as I can tell. You will have to spend money, I'm just not sure this was the most effective place to start.

Originally Posted by CathieS

Sorry, I'm so dense.

Baloney

Originally Posted by CathieS

Give me a nursing question, I can probablly have the answer,

No doubt.

Originally Posted by CathieS

but not on campers.

We all start somewhere.

Originally Posted by CathieS

You all are great, .

Well I know I am, not sure about the rest. JUST KIDDING!

Originally Posted by CathieS

and I appreciate all the help. I'm sure it won't be the last "dumb" question I have. I do however appreciate you not making me feel dumb.

The only "Dumb" question is the one not asked.

I hope I've helped you at least in some small part.
This post has met or exceeded my knowledge level. I will ask you again, to refer to a proper RV maintenance shop.
As with all my posts I stand, and expect, to be corrected. It's how I learn too.

[clyon51]

Cathie,

I failed to bring up another very important part of this in my last post. Thanks to Sailer for bringing it up.

When you are connected to 50a, you are capable of using 45a as I said earlier. The problem is, this so-called electrician kept the 30 amp cord! This means you can put 50% more amps through that 30a cord than it was designed to handle. That means that cord will get hot, melt and catch fire. To what degree depends on how many amps and what length of time over 30a you put through it. The very first thing you need to do is get that trailer off that 50a outlet and put it in the 30.

Talk about feeling dumb! Can't believe I missed something so important. What's really amazing is this electrician didn't replace your cord with something that can safely handle the 45a your system can now use. Had this guy done what I thought he'd done earlier (put on a 50a cord) you'd be in the boat I described in my last post.

Now you are faced with getting a better cord and being in the same boat with a surge protector or, put that trailer back to a stock 30a system. I highly recommend you do the latter.

Let this be another good lesson for futures readers to NEVER let an "electrician" do work on your RV unless they are specifically trained/educated to do so!

[TLGPE]

Well, OK, but just one more note here. IF the 30A cord with a 3-prong plug is used in a standard 30A post, then the cord can get only 30Amps from the post breaker, no matter what has been done to the house. I didn't catch whether the OP is plugging into a modified box to allow the 50A to go to the 3-prong plug, but if so, JUST DON'T DO THAT. Go back to the original statement that the standard 30A amp cord is being used for all that comes into the house. That's your limit.

Sorry I didn't read every post, I'll do that now, but I really don't see a problem if the 30A cord is used as intended.

Tom

[clyon51]

Her 30a cord is fine when she's pulgged into 30a. Her problem is she is using a 50a adapter and she has a 45a box. So, when she plugs into 50a, her 30a cord could be called to pass 45amps.....very bad.

Many of us with 30a rigs use an adapter for a 50a outlet. This means we do have 50a available, but can't use it because the coach breakers won't allow it. In her case, her box will allow 45a go through her 30a cord....again, not good.

[Hooligan]

CathieS: Just a thought....

Ask your electrician exactly what he repaired or replaced. A 45 amp breaker panel is unusual for an RV main 115 volt (AC) electrical panel.

Going back to your first post- Your electrician "replaced the electrical boards for the breaker box." Is it possible he replaced the converter and not the main panel. (The main electrical panel does not have a circuit board)

A 45 amp converter is a common upgrade and provides 45 amps of DC (12 volt) power while operating from a 30 amp AC power circuit. It is also common for an electrical surge (or a bare wire short) to damage the circuit board in the converter/charger.

If your power pole has a 30amp receptacle, use that instead of the 50amp and an adapter. It is controlled by a 30 amp breaker and will protect your wiring. At least until you determine what protection you have at your main panel.

Agree the 30 amp surge protector would be beneficial.

This may be a wild goose chase but something doesn't seem to add up...

[wa8yxm]

DR... A spike supressor (Commonly called a surge supressor) is a few dollars.

A Surge Supressor/power guard is like the Progressive Dynamics that goes between the post and your RV. This is a TRUE surge supressor as it will cut off power to your RV in the event of a SURGE (Sustained increase in voltage) Or Dip (Sustained drop) and in a few other conditions as well (Too many to list here)

A low-cost outlet strip type spike supressor, faced with a SUSTAINED surge, kind of sounds like a firecracker.. Been there, Done that as they say, Thank you Detroit Edison.

AN EMS: is a system designed to MANAGE your electrical usage.. NOW it may also perform the functions of a power guard (monitoring voltage, frequency and such) but the primary function is to make sure you do not trip the 30 amp breaker on the poist.


As to why the O/P's circuit board melted.. I would like to know, But as you may know I'm fond of saying we RVers often have a few screws loose, and the screws you find in that box are the very screws I am speaking of.


Now to the O/P.

Some campgrounds have rules like "Do not turn A/C,(Or other electrical loads) unless you are present...Cause they do not want to pay for the power.

[ronspradley]

Originally Posted by Hooligan

CathieS: Just a thought....

Ask your electrician exactly what he repaired or replaced. A 45 amp breaker panel is unusual for an RV main 115 volt (AC) electrical panel.

Going back to your first post- Your electrician "replaced the electrical boards for the breaker box." Is it possible he replaced the converter and not the main panel. (The main electrical panel does not have a circuit board)

A 45 amp converter is a common upgrade and provides 45 amps of DC (12 volt) power while operating from a 30 amp AC power circuit. It is also common for an electrical surge (or a bare wire short) to damage the circuit board in the converter/charger.

If your power pole has a 30amp receptacle, use that instead of the 50amp and an adapter. It is controlled by a 30 amp breaker and will protect your wiring. At least until you determine what protection you have at your main panel.

Agree the 30 amp surge protector would be beneficial.

This may be a wild goose chase but something doesn't seem to add up...

By jove, I think you've got it.

ronspradley

[CathieS]

I know he told me I don't need the adapter from the 50 amp post to my camper anymore, but he didn't do anything to the plug outside the camper. Guess this is just like buying a house. I'll get the 30 amp surge protector and start there. Thank you all so much.

[Dr4Film]

Originally Posted by CathieS

I know he told me I don't need the adapter from the 50 amp post to my camper anymore, but he didn't do anything to the plug outside the camper. Guess this is just like buying a house. I'll get the 30 amp surge protector and start there. Thank you all so much.

That may be true if you are using the 30 amp receptacle on the pedestal with your 30 amp male shore power cable. However, if you happen to find a RV Park where they ONLY have 50 amp pedestals, (not to many like this, Beverly Beach Camptown in Florida is one) you will need to use a 50-30 amp dog-bone for shore power.

Dr4Film ----- Richard

[CathieS]

I'm at a 50 amp pedestal, so will keep the 50-30 amp dog-bone. Thanks again.

[CathieS]

Forgot to say I checked the "dogbone", and it's cool to touch. I've checked it several times, at different times of day. Thanks again everyone.

[clyon51]

Originally Posted by CathieS

Forgot to say I checked the "dogbone", and it's cool to touch. I've checked it several times, at different times of day. Thanks again everyone.

This is good Cathie, but still not safe. Below is an article regarding preventing your breakers from tripping. It explains the amp draw for various RV appliances.

In your case, when plugged into 50a, your breakers will not trip, your 30a cable will get hot.

As you will see, running the AC, micro and coffee pot puts you over 30a. As long as you religiously keep track of what's running, you're good. Of course since you are by yourself in a smaller TT, it will probably be rare you would have a need to exceed 30a. One last thought, it's very possible that 45a breaker in your TT can easily and cheaply be replaced with a 30a. Check with a local RV electrician.

http://www.2rvguys.com/breaker.html

[ronspradley]

I would bet that Hooligan got it right. What was probably replaced 30 amp to 45 amp was the dc converter. That is a common upgrade. And that would explain why we were all confused about thinking it was changing 30 amp to 45 amp ac 120 volts.

ronspradley