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Old 08-19-2013, 08:11 AM   #1
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hitch wobble

The hitch head wobbles too much I think. Is this a problem? Will it cause the trailer to bounce more then normal? Dealer said it is better to be loose, then too tight, which makes removing the head extremely difficult. I replaced the shocks on the truck, but I still get too much bounce on rough roads.
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Old 08-19-2013, 02:57 PM   #2
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As long as you have the proper size stinger/ball to fit the receiver (eg, 2 inch to 2 inch), it should be OK.

There seems to be a lot of tolerance for hitches. If the wobble bothers you, there are devices which use a side and bottom bolts to cinch up the connection to stop the motion. Some folks have even drilled and tapped holes to fit bolts into a side and bottom of the hitch itself to tighten up the connection.

Personally, I've never had enough wobble to get me to do such things.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:23 PM   #3
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Reese sells a "tightener" to stop that condition. The alternative is to replace the hitch.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:31 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info. My question is " Does the "sloppy" fit of the shank, into the oversize factory 2 inch receiver, on GMC and Chevy trucks, contribute to trailer bounce" ???
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:14 PM   #5
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An inexpensive and quick way to check it out is to go to purchase a 3/8” square “U” bolt w/plate and nuts long enough and wide enough to straddle the receiver ahead of the collar and angle it backwards so that the plate clamps upward on the “stinger” (it will probably at about a 45* angle). It should tighten up the “slop” in the stinger/receiver, if your “Wobble” is gone- problem solved!
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:30 PM   #6
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Do you have an equalizer hitch, if not that may be your answer?
A commonly used example of an equalizer hitch is that if you have 600# of tongue weight, a properly adjusted hitch will transfer about 200# to the TV front axle and 200# to the rear axle and 200# to the trailer axles. (These number are for illustration only)
So you can see that transferring about 400# from the trailer tongue to the TV there is a lot of torque on the “Stinger and Receiver” eliminating any “slop”.
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom3205 View Post
Thanks for the info. My question is " Does the "sloppy" fit of the shank, into the oversize factory 2 inch receiver, on GMC and Chevy trucks, contribute to trailer bounce" ???
A "sloppy" fit between the receiver and the hitch will cause noise and if it was really loose, could add to the trailer bouncing - but, I think it would only be a little bit.

You can buy a "Quiet Hitch" or "Immobilizer"...
Anti-Rattle Hitch Accessories | etrailer.com
...or make one like mentioned above.

But, the simplest way I found to tighten the fit of the hitch and receiver is to ensure the pin is snug in the hole (for side to side movement) and use metal plate to "shim" the receiver (up and down movement).
Add a shim to the top and/or bottom as needed. If you don't have access to any scrap metal, you can get it from any hardware store in the form of home construction straps - made of thin tin...trim to fit.

Best luck
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:05 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom3205 View Post
Thanks for the info. My question is " Does the "sloppy" fit of the shank, into the oversize factory 2 inch receiver, on GMC and Chevy trucks, contribute to trailer bounce" ???
Not that I have ever noticed in my trailer days or heard of since going online in forms some years ago.

That said both Reese and Blue-Ox have clamps that work very well.

I use the Blue Ox one on my drop hitch adapter, This is because the drop hitch adapter was custom made for me by Blue Ox.. It not only has the 2" receiver (Dropped down closer to the level needed for towing my then and now toweds) but a "Tong" type adapter (Flat plate with hole where you put a ball hitch) for mounting my bicycle carrier.. I don';t want the bike bouncing around so I clamp that one.
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