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Old 02-02-2010, 03:15 PM   #43
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In 30 plus years of RVing in trailers and motorhomes, I have never used any chemicals and never had any smell problems or tank problems. Tank monitors don't work with clear water.
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:29 PM   #44
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EDSomers brought up toilet paper and how fast it breaks down. This thread from long ago about this subject http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fu...d/19670488.cfm seems to indicate that even the most sturdy of toilet paper is beginning to break down after 75 seconds. How long between dumps for most, I'll bet it is a lot longer than 75 seconds. We have never had a holding tank problem, and we use whatever desire. Holding tank problems stem from not using adequate flushing water and/or emptying the tank when it is less than 1/2 full.. Chemicals have little effect, other than to add a certain odor to make you feel like you got something for your money
There is a group that uses TSP for cleaning a blocked/ sludged holding tank. I'll try it if I ever do have a problem.
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:01 AM   #45
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RID-X is fairly cheap, is designed to aid septic tanks, will not hurt seals and is a powder
Depends on what you call cheap. And what amount you put in the tank on each refill.

Rid-X also comes in a liquid product. That is what I use for the 7 months of the year that I dump into a septic system. Easy to pour out. No need to shake box and not know how much you are using each time.

The other 5 months when traveling. Just plain water works fine.
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:03 AM   #46
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Considering that RidX says to use 1/4 box for up to 1500gal septic tank, it shouldn't take much for a 40 gal tank.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:55 AM   #47
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Considering that RidX says to use 1/4 box for up to 1500gal septic tank, it shouldn't take much for a 40 gal tank.
That is their 41.4 oz box that says use 1/4 box.

They also have 1 dose, 2 dose and 3 dose boxes.
The liquid bottle is 3 doses.

I am guessing that I use around 1 oz or more/less in each black tank refill.
I don't measure it, as I take cap off bottle and pour some out.
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:37 PM   #48
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Two things I have found to be real important is I add water before using the black tank. Our TT has a 40 gal. tank so I use 6/7 gals. water & the slide in (with a much smaller tank I use about 3 gals. It would seem it would reduce time until full but it's the opposite. With the TT (while dry camping) we went from 7 to 10 days or more before needing to dump. The other thing is I use the Geo Method, which is soap & water softener. If someone wants The Geo Method posted again I will do so. I think what it does is keep every thing slick so it empties clean and keeps the gages clean.
I also add 5-10 gals of water into the black tank after it has been emptied and likewise find that the system works much better. No teepee's, no smell, and better paper dissolve action.
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Old 02-09-2010, 07:12 AM   #49
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It sounds to me like after every flush without the exhaust fan, you should add a generous amount of water.

As far as the gray tank is concerned, it is important to keep the P-traps full. Tough to do when your driving, I bet.

Are there P-traps in the shower/bath in addition to the sinks?

After flushing the gray tank, is it wise to add a little water?

Tom
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Old 02-09-2010, 08:50 AM   #50
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I only add water to the black tank as that's where the solids can pile up and you don't want that.
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Old 02-09-2010, 09:47 AM   #51
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I hope you all don't get tired of basic questions from a newbie. But, can I get suggestions on the best way to treat my b&g holding tanks? I'm sure there is a favorite product that you all use. Guidance please, also a very GREEN individual here.
Thanks
We actually expect this question to be asked about a thousand times a year

And the person who said you don't need to use anythign is rather close

There is a great product known by, among other, names Hydrogen Hydroxide. (You might also knwo it as WATER)

That's what I use most of the time

If I'm going into storage then I will dump the tanks

Add 5 gallons of the above chemical (Well usually six, my water bottle is six) 1/2 cup each Calgon water softener (Liquid or powder) and Dawn Dishwashing Liquid (original not anti-bacterial bacteria good in that tank don't kill 'em) and drive. Now for me it's about 60 miles. Then Dump again

I have some waste digester chemicals (Basically yeast or bacteria) that I use if I"m boondocking.. but when they are gone, they will remain gone. I'll not re-order.

Water works well

IF you get a stench.. try cleaning the toilet.. I've found it, not the tank below it, is responsible in more cases than not.
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Old 02-12-2010, 05:43 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by Coach-Tom View Post
It sounds to me like after every flush without the exhaust fan, you should add a generous amount of water.

As far as the gray tank is concerned, it is important to keep the P-traps full. Tough to do when your driving, I bet.

Are there P-traps in the shower/bath in addition to the sinks?

After flushing the gray tank, is it wise to add a little water?

Tom
Tom;
Probably the biggest and most common mistake is not using enough water. After dumping I always add about 5 gal.

Yes all grey water drains have p-traps.

Unless you do some really wild driving the water will stay in the p-traps. It will also evaporate while in storage so what I do is pour about a cup of antifreeze in each drain ( the kind you use to winterize) it will last for months.

No need to add water to the grey tank, it will fill first anyway.

Even with a 40 gal. black thank it will have to be dumped every 7-10 days. That is not enough time for an enzyme or bacteria to do much in breaking down the solids. I feel its just a waste of money to use these products.
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Old 02-12-2010, 06:48 AM   #53
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Tom;

No need to add water to the grey tank, it will fill first anyway.
Sorry for my ignorance, but what do you mean the gray water tank will fill first anyway?

Tom
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Old 02-12-2010, 07:30 AM   #54
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Sorry for my ignorance, but what do you mean the gray water tank will fill first anyway?

Tom
Yes, generally the grey tank will need to be dumped before the black. With taking showers washing dishes and general washing.
Not everyone will agree but this is what we do and it works for us. If we have sewer hookup we leave the grey tank valve open at all times. We let the black tank fill to at least 3/4 before dumping. Close the grey tank valve then dump the black. Close the black valve and add about 5 gal. of water.
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Old 02-13-2010, 07:40 AM   #55
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Even with a 40 gal. black thank it will have to be dumped every 7-10 days. That is not enough time for an enzyme or bacteria to do much in breaking down the solids. I feel its just a waste of money to use these products.
How soon does RID-X begin work? The enzymes in RID-X begin working as soon as they come in contact with water.

The bacteria take 2-4 hours to germinate and then begin to break down solid waste.

If the temperature and conditions are favorable, then the bacteria will multiply to the maximum level that the environment will allow in about 2-4 days.

I dump every 11 days and everything goes through the very small Sewer-Solution hose, without any help of the water jet it has.

And the solids I deposit in it less then 6 hours before dumping. Are broken down also.

IMO I feel that it is not a waste of money, where I am dumping into a home septic system all winter.

But when traveling I do go back to the big hose and just plain water.

Where is your link with the proof that says. It takes enzyme or bacteria longer then 7-10 days to start working?
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Old 02-13-2010, 10:45 AM   #56
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For those that would like a more in depth explanation of the 'Geo Method', here is the link.

The Geo Method - The Geo Method official homepage * <!-- google_ad_client = "pub-2615861085057897"; /* 728x15, c

Worthwhile reading for all RVers, both pro-Chemical and Non.
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