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Old 07-06-2010, 11:43 AM   #15
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IMHO...

Asking a 3 KW genset to start a 15K BTU air conditioner is a lot.

I have a Coleman 3.5 KW genset and it worked "ok" for the 13,500 BTU a/c I had on my old trailer, but every once and a while if it was really hot outside, and the compressor cycled a little too fast (before the head pressure had a chance to drop on the compressor) it would pop the circuit breaker.

Remember, running the a/c is not a big deal. Starting it is the problem, and after the first initial cycle that compressor starts hard.

I think a 4 KW genset would be the minimum for a 15,000 BTU a/c, or like RVhauler said...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhauler
Solution was to add a A/C Hard start kit which solved the problem for about $25. (Kit is available from A/C supply houses and is basically a large start capacitor which plugs into the start capactor on the A/C unit. No modifying needed. Instructions included)
I am going to look into this idea myself!
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:37 AM   #16
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Thanks Popeye59. My "belief" about not hooking 2 unlike wattage generators was based on my memory of the owner's manuals for my 2 2000i s.
All the ACs I've seen are on a 20amp CB. The CB will tolerate a higher amp draw for a short period. It sounds like some here are talking about the RV CB popping from too high a draw + others about the Gen. CB popping.
Regardless, for $25 the hard start kit should be standard on RV ACs.
Frank
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:01 PM   #17
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Hi All,

I figure I'd add my $.02 as well. I've owned an Onan 4kw (in my old MH), Onan 6.5kw (in a box van), and currently own a Honda portable EU3000iSA with an aftermarket remote control kit (used for my cab-over camper).

I can say without out a doubt, the Honda has been the easiest to work on, lowest cost of ownership, quietest generator I have ever owned. I too looked at using an LP Onan to eliminate a 3rd fuel to haul but, after looking at my options and buying / working on Onan generators in the past I was ready to try something different. I've personally watched a Honda EU2000iA run a 12,500 A/C and my 3000 will run the A/C, TV, and microwave all at the same time so, it wouldn't surprise me to see one run a 15,000 BTU A/C. I think Honda is a little conservative on their ratings.

Someone expressed the cost of the Honda. I too looked at cheapie Harbor Freight generators thinking why are the Hondas so much? I can tell you now, QUALITY! Oh, and the price a paid for an Onan starter would have bought 25% of my Honda generator.

If it were me, I'd try the Honda especially since you already own it. No I don't work for Honda I'm just a satisfied customer. Their generators are like their cars and motorcycles, they work, and work good. No more, no less!

FYI the new Honda EU3000i Handi doesn't have electric start if that kind of thing matters to you. It did for me as I wanted to be able to add a remote kit and / or have someone who knows nothing about it be able to start it so I stuck with the big cube shaped EU3000iSA.

I won't ever go back to Onan again but, that's just me. If I had a large rig I probably wouldn't have a choice.

Be sure to let us know how it works,

Todd
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Old 07-07-2010, 05:28 PM   #18
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lp generator vrs. honda

stay away from lp gen , they work fine but are about 30 % lest efficient
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:18 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVhauler View Post
Solution was to add a A/C Hard start kit which solved the problem for about $25. (Kit is available from A/C supply houses and is basically a large start capacitor which plugs into the start capactor on the A/C unit. No modifying needed. Instructions included)

I appreciate all the feedback and insight. I am leaning toward the concensus here on what to do, and I'll stick with the Honda, at least for now.

Regarding the a/c hard start kit....I am a complete electrical idiot. I can change an outlet and install a light switch (one melted screwdriver in the process). I can even change a light bulb, but that's about it. Who would I talk to to make sure I did this right? Would the a/c supplier know about the rv unit? Would my rv dealer know about the hard start kit? Or, will they both look at me like I am nuts??
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Old 07-27-2010, 08:59 PM   #20
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OK, so the new unit came in, and there is now no question that a 3KW Honda will NOT start the 15K BTU a/c. I had no other appliances running during the attempt. I'm looking into the hard start kit, and am debating on selling the 3KW and buying two 2KW, or adding another 3KW (expensive, but gives me a full 50 amps of power). Thanks again for all the advice!
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:22 PM   #21
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Wow, I'm shocked and sorry to hear that. Did you ensure that the Eco-Throttle switch on the front panel is in the "off" position when trying to start the A/C? Keep us in the loop on the hard start kit.

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Old 07-28-2010, 08:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Wow, I'm shocked and sorry to hear that. Did you ensure that the Eco-Throttle switch on the front panel is in the "off" position when trying to start the A/C? Keep us in the loop on the hard start kit.
Yeah, I had that off. Nothing else was drawing power except the LP detector and whatever battery charge inherently takes place. I realized last night I did not get a manual on my a/c unit, so I don't even know the brand let alone the specs on what it draws on startup. I called the dealer for a copy. I'm climbing up over the weekend to pull the a/c cover off and figure out what I need to buy.
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Old 08-01-2010, 05:31 PM   #23
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Most of the newer A/C units have a time delay on the compressor starts. It gives the refrigerant time to equalize so the compressor does not start against high pressure. It is part of the energy efficiency requirements. A hard start kit is a good idea. One never knows which CG has bad power and it will help save a unit. My fan starts before the compressor starts. That helps to lower the initial power draw. It came that way.
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