Community Forums

kustom · 12-04-2017, 03:57 PM

not in rv but at home old relief valve was leaking
removed got new one same thing small leak returned it
to store got a new one still small drip leak
cant see how 3 valves can be bad
don't known what to do to fix this leak
help me please
thanks

ps leaks with power to water heater off [ cold water ]
tank is 3 yrs old and we flushed it and was clean

Bob_C · 12-04-2017, 04:01 PM

Leaking from threaded area?

nothermark · 12-04-2017, 04:19 PM

Is the leak from the output of the valve or around the stem where you screw it in?

If it's the output port of 3 valves I would be looking at the water pressure or temperature. Either one will trigger anything from some seepage to a high flow.

If it's around the stem then you need to tighten the valve more and/or use some thread sealant like teflon tape.

mrt_1111 · 12-04-2017, 04:27 PM

What the water pressure? The valve is called a temperature and pressure valve. (T&P relief valve). I replaced mine a couple of years ago only to to find out the problem was the water pressure regulator.

https://www.thespruce.com/tandp-reli...heater-1825057

twinboat · 12-04-2017, 04:41 PM

If it leaks with cold water, it has to be the system pressure.

Add a pressure regulator to the line, after the meter.

Gary RVRoamer · 12-04-2017, 04:45 PM

The valve is doing what it is designed to do - relieve excess pressure or temperature. That's why they all "leak".

The most likley causes are:
#1. Lack of sufficient "air head" in the heater tank (see the heater owner manual for how to establish the air cushion above the water). This is by far the most common cause.
#2. Faulty thermostat allowing overheating.

It is highly unlikely that the incoming water pressure is the cause. It would have to be 150 lbs or more.

Here is one procedure for setting the air head.

kustom · 12-04-2017, 05:26 PM

ok have tryed 3 new valves and they all leak out port
not were it screws in to tank
tank has worked fine for 4 years till now
nothing has changed
might be i don't have the air pocket ?
will try this
cant be temp as had power off to tank all this time [still off ]
thanks in am will try draining and refill to make air pocket
if that's not it then what ?
thanks all

Unplanned Tourist · 12-04-2017, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kustom

not in rv but at home old relief valve was leaking
removed got new one same thing small leak returned it
to store got a new one still small drip leak
cant see how 3 valves can be bad
don't known what to do to fix this leak
help me please
thanks

ps leaks with power to water heater off [ cold water ]
tank is 3 yrs old and we flushed it and was clean

Likely the valves were leaking because there was some manufacturing debris under the seat. Try to open and blow out through the valve. Also you may have some luck by putting the valve in some hot water for 10-15 minutes to soften the material that seals the seat. Just a thought.
Happy Glamping.

twinboat · 12-04-2017, 05:56 PM

An air pocket is for when the water expands from heat.

It will disappear if the T&P leaks. It's at the top of the tank.

Now days the install expansion tanks.

You need to check your water pressure. Your water company may do it for you.

kustom · 12-04-2017, 06:02 PM

thanks its night time so will keep working checking in the morning
thanks

keymastr · 12-04-2017, 09:32 PM

You said this is in your residence, NOT in your RV, correct? If so you do not want an air pocket as described above. If opening and closing the valves has not cleared any debris the it most likely is the pressure regulator as mentioned earlier. These do go bad occasionally. This is what they look like and can usually be found where your water line enters your property from the street. Look near your water meter at the sidewalk.

kustom · 12-05-2017, 09:29 AM

yes at house so no air pocket ? needed

Old-Biscuit · 12-05-2017, 10:43 AM

air pockets are by design ---residential or rv

Due to 'dip tubes' there is an area in top of tank that is above the water line
Cold water dip tube goes to bottom area of tank so cold water is induced closest to heat source
Hot water dip tube goes down into tank just far enough that when tank is 'FULL' (water flows out hot line) there is an air pocket which helps control pressure increases due to the swelling of water when it is heated

T&P Relief Valves
Temp---210*F they Pop OPEN
Pressure..150# they Pop OPEN (125# they begin to weep)

You need to verify water supply pressure AFTER the pressure regulator.....which should be on supply line at/close to where water supply line enters house.

You should also verify you have the correct T&P -----they come with different length shanks which expose more or less of probe

kustom · 12-05-2017, 05:16 PM

thanks for all the info
i did take old one to store to buy new so that's ok
its a tiny drip if i put my finger in output and just touch it
not push it stops
must be something small in there that lets it drip
i think i will remove again and put in a pot of boiling water to try
and clean it