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Old 06-03-2015, 04:07 AM   #15
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just wondering ares don't have a anode rod is that the norm on newer rigs?
safe travles bob,linda & missy
Yours is probably a Atwood heater like mine, no rod in those.
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:42 AM   #16
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Some water heaters are porcelin lined and don't need the anode rod.
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Old 06-03-2015, 12:24 PM   #17
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Some water heaters are porcelin lined and don't need the anode rod.

No RV water heater tanks are not porcelain lined.

A Suburban is a steel tank and requires an Anode rod to protect the steel.

A Atwood tank is aluminum which does not require a Anode Rod nor will it add any protection. While they are sold for Atwood's, the only help is helping you waste your money.

House water heater tanks are usually glass lined and also use an Anode Rod hanging from the top.


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Old 06-28-2015, 12:33 PM   #18
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As I am reading these posts about electric/propane water heaters I am wondering how does one switch from one to the other. I have been using only propane for the last 3 years thinking that is my only option. How can I find out how to switch to electricity or if my water heater even has that option. I have an Atwood water heater in a 2002 Class C Coachmen.
Thanks, Linda
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:41 PM   #19
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As I am reading these posts about electric/propane water heaters I am wondering how does one switch from one to the other. I have been using only propane for the last 3 years thinking that is my only option. How can I find out how to switch to electricity or if my water heater even has that option. I have an Atwood water heater in a 2002 Class C Coachmen.
Thanks, Linda
campfiregirl
What is the make and model # of your water heater?
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:52 PM   #20
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Chances are very good that if your unit came with electric and gas both then there is a switch on the panel that has your water pump and other switches on it. If not there then check under the sink.
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Old 06-28-2015, 01:24 PM   #21
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All Atwood water heaters I have ever seen are both gas and electric. Generally speaking, the propane switch is right next to the electric switch. I use electric when on full hookups and propane when boondocking at the races. As stated, just be sure you have the water heater filled with water anytime you switch on the electric. It isn't a tragedy if you burn out an element because they cost about $15 at Lowes or Home Depot. Getting propane is a hassle for me so that's another reason to use electric.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:48 PM   #22
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All Atwood water heaters I have ever seen are both gas and electric. Generally speaking, the propane switch is right next to the electric switch. I use electric when on full hookups and propane when boondocking at the races. As stated, just be sure you have the water heater filled with water anytime you switch on the electric. It isn't a tragedy if you burn out an element because they cost about $15 at Lowes or Home Depot. Getting propane is a hassle for me so that's another reason to use electric.

Just FYI, Atwood makes a complete combination of RV Water Heaters, LP only, LP/Electric, even a model the is heated by a Motorhome engine coolant and LP/electric.


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Old 06-29-2015, 12:06 PM   #23
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When you say the propane switch is right next to the electric switch, where is that located exactly? On the water heater?? I don't see anything there. I have a monitor panel in the coach and two days ago all lights for testing the levels of LP, Battery,and holding tanks for water along with the water heater switch stopped working. Since then, I am unable to hear the water heater ignite and the water never gets hot. I have tried the switch several times (waiting a few minutes in between) but it still wont turn on. That is why I am thinking I could turn on the electrical part of the water heater and see if that works. I am unsure if something is wrong with the water heater or the monitor panel. The light for the water pump on the monitor panel is working. Any thoughts?
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:33 PM   #24
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If it's a Suburban water heater, periodic replacement of the anode rod is more importatnt than the heat source.
This is the best answer, IMHO. I've been a RV tech, and this is the biggest item to keep the inside of the tank in the best shape you can. (along with draining every month, turn off the heat sources first)

I was trained as a corrosion technician in the USAF, and it really is the cathode rod, but it's called the anode. Just a term, and the end result is what we're looking for here.

LPG is the fastest to get it up to temp, but the electric will maintain, even after a shower. Free electric, use it, otherwise, I use LPG for the water heater, and the fridge.
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:57 PM   #25
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When you say the propane switch is right next to the electric switch, where is that located exactly? On the water heater?? I don't see anything there. I have a monitor panel in the coach and two days ago all lights for testing the levels of LP, Battery,and holding tanks for water along with the water heater switch stopped working. Since then, I am unable to hear the water heater ignite and the water never gets hot. I have tried the switch several times (waiting a few minutes in between) but it still wont turn on. That is why I am thinking I could turn on the electrical part of the water heater and see if that works. I am unsure if something is wrong with the water heater or the monitor panel. The light for the water pump on the monitor panel is working. Any thoughts?
campfiregirl
Have determined you actually have a LP/electric water heater?
If your water heater is "gas only" you will never find an ON/OFF electric switch for a non-existing heating element..... (unless of course an aftermarket "HotRod" has been added to your water heater).

I will ask again ...what is the make and model of your RV water heater?
(Without that info we are all "spinning our wheels").

Mel
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Old 06-29-2015, 04:59 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by campfiregirl View Post
When you say the propane switch is right next to the electric switch, where is that located exactly? On the water heater?? I don't see anything there. I have a monitor panel in the coach and two days ago all lights for testing the levels of LP, Battery,and holding tanks for water along with the water heater switch stopped working. Since then, I am unable to hear the water heater ignite and the water never gets hot. I have tried the switch several times (waiting a few minutes in between) but it still wont turn on. That is why I am thinking I could turn on the electrical part of the water heater and see if that works. I am unsure if something is wrong with the water heater or the monitor panel. The light for the water pump on the monitor panel is working. Any thoughts?
On my coach on the panel for tank levels etc there are two water heater switches, one marked 12V the other 120V. The 12V is propane, 120V electric.

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Old 06-30-2015, 01:11 PM   #27
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Mel, it is an Atwood Model G6A 83 electronic ignition. I have only one hot water switch and I believe it is a propane only water heater.
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Old 06-30-2015, 01:18 PM   #28
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Water Heater Model

Glenn, It is an Atwood model G6A 8e. I has only one switch and it is an electronic ignition.
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