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Old 06-23-2014, 06:00 PM   #15
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Rear cap? What is that?
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtstriker View Post
Rear cap? What is that?
The fiberglass tail of the RV. It often has space in it to allow for the A/C ducts to go from the basement to the overhead. Since you've got a WH chassis and not a DP, your duct work might run differently.
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Old 06-23-2014, 06:12 PM   #17
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I too would love to get 30* of spread in my 40DP with basement air. Twenty is about all I can muster in the Arizona sun.

I have custom exterior sun shades and use my pull out awnings but never leave the main patio awning out when I'm gone. I won't consider covering my windows with tin foil.

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Rear cap? What is that?
The large molded "ends" of Class A rigs are called "caps". Basement air units (especially Winnie models I believe) have had problems with the ducts in the rear cap coming loose so that the cold air just blows into the rear cap rather than all being forced through the ceiling ducts.

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Old 06-23-2014, 07:13 PM   #18
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I've looked up in there and the ducting seems taped well. No indication of any air loss, nothing blowing around... Frustrating...
Thanks for the suggestion...
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:52 PM   #19
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My next coach will definitely have more than 2 a/c units for this exact reason.

One option to consider if you do this much is to buy a portable a/c unit and then when you are stopped put it up right next to the driver's seat and let it exhaust out the driver's window. We met some folks in Vegas that had done that and I am considering it myself.

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Old 06-23-2014, 07:55 PM   #20
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An option a number of folks with basement air have used is to add a roof top AC unit in place of one of the Fantastic Fans. As I understand it, they fit nicely into the opening which is already there. This adds a good bit of cooling capacity.

Certainly not a job for just any DIYer but it can be done by a shop or someone with a bit of electrical knowledge.

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Old 06-23-2014, 08:03 PM   #21
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The OP does not mention if his A/C units are 13,5 or 15,000 btu.
Purchase some aluminum foil insulation for your windows and it will help greatly. Make sure your return duct filters are clean.
Hope you have a AGS for your generator for the doggies should the RV park have a black out.
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Old 06-23-2014, 08:11 PM   #22
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We have insulated ALL of our cabinets that are on our outside walls and overhead cabinets with the silver bubble wrap insulation from Lowes. This has made a huge difference in heat and cooling our coach. The stuff is light, cheap, easy to install and takes no space at all. If you open a cabinet and it is hot.........there's a big part of the problem!
We were at a rally last year with temps at 105 every day and the coolest it got at night was 99! We were on 30amp service in a 42ft coach. Our windows are also "insulated" with Ceramic Tinting which is not dark. We were very comfortable but most were not, our friends could not beleive the difference in ours compared to theirs. Same brand of mh.
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