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Old 04-08-2012, 09:03 PM   #15
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I did not think about getting a honey wagon. That would be the least messy. As for the suction, not really a problem. The vent pipe going to the roof will release any suction build up. And the perceived large volume of the hw pump is not important since we are talking about air flow flow and a tremendous volume of air can pass through the two inch or so vent pipe.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:30 PM   #16
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Recent Experience

Did this recently so the memory is 'fresh' but not pleasant.

I had a clog between the bowl and the tank: I cut the barb end off of a hose and used it to ram the clog into the tank. It was really obvious when the clog cleared.

Later, when I tried to drain the tank the same 'material' clogged the outflow. With rubber gloves on and a bucket below the outflow I rammed the same hose up into the tank. As soon as it started flowing I pulled the hose out and closed the gate valve. After that it drained OK but just to make sure I filled the tank a few times and flushed it out.

I DON'T EVER WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN! So I bought a backflush attachment and another gate valve. The extra valve will (in theory) allow the backflush water pressure to dislodge the clog and not risk another spill.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:50 AM   #17
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Relative to your brain?
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:53 AM   #18
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Normal operation for 6 years. Half full.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:55 AM   #19
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No valve left open. Just what usually goes into drain.
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:05 AM   #20
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wash rag put into toilet. did you find a honey wagon yet.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:39 PM   #21
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I agree with calling the honey wagon. But for the avid do it yourselfer:
Get a plumbing snake. And one of those clear connectors that goes on the drain after the slide valve. The connector needs to have a garden hose connection.
Hook up the connector and drain hose and put the snake through the hose connector. Then open the slide valve and break the clog with the snake.

Hopefully this will minimize the unsavory nature of the task
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:00 PM   #22
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How do you seal the area between the snake and the hose connection nipple. I would hate the have the leakage run down my arm while holding a rag around the snake. However, were we spend the summer I could jump in lake afterwards. I am sure DW would have fit if I came in the coach in that condition.
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Old 04-18-2012, 02:17 PM   #23
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Ewwwwwwwwww!
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:51 PM   #24
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When I bought my MH the previous owner had been parked for 2 months at a park with a sewer connection. He had left the black tank valve open and the black tank was jammed with toilet paper and such. I closed black water valve. Added an entire package of powder Rid-X in the commode and added a bunch of water. In two days, all was liquified and luckly drained out with not issue. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:48 PM   #25
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I am a nubie to the rv world, not sure if this works but I have been told by some rvers have told me to put three or four backs of ice down the toilet when either starting your tip or headed home and that as you drive the ice starts to melt and then sloshes around cleaning any sensors and removing any stubborn material in the tank, then when you arrive add more water to the tank and drain.

I am sure i will try it one day.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:32 PM   #26
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Shove a garden hose up it and look out.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:48 PM   #27
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While at the FMCA Rally in Perry last year the Honey Wagon Driver would not start pumping until you were inside to open the flush valve, said his pump would collaps the tank. He said it was designed to pump 200 gallons a minute up hill a hundred and fifty feet if needed to clean out septic systems. So with that said, and if you use the wagon just go in and flush, this will provide an additional 4 in pipe for venting. Hope this helps.
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