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Old 01-23-2016, 12:46 PM   #15
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Connecticut Electric 60-Amp RV Panel Outlet with 50-Amp Receptacle, Breakers and GFCI Duplex-CESMPSC55GRHR - The Home Depot
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:56 PM   #16
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some good points above.

-if you install the receptacle on the outside of the building you won't need to leave a door or window ajar.
-get a competent electrician to install a 50amp receptacle for an RV plug. This also eliminates the need for adapters.
-you never know when you may want to run all of your appliances, why put in a lesser outlet?
-get a 50 amp extension cable. We carry a 50' extension. Use it to make the run to the garage outlet to avoid weathering your built in cable. Keep it in the coach for hard to reach power in campsites.
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Old 01-23-2016, 02:01 PM   #17
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As others have said, a 30' power cord would not be a problem as long as it's a good-quality cord made for RV use!
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:43 AM   #18
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rather than fill your brain with all the options of extensions available for use at camp grounds I will try to help you with the initial primary request for info on the outside outlet at you home. some of the previous example are well founded.

As first questioned - why do you want a 50 amp outlet at you home? Is it to keep the batteries up and have some electric in the MH or is it to operate the AC, microwave and have the full functions of MH for guest or you own uses?

If the answer is to keep the batteries topped and have some power in the rig - then you do not need the 50 amp but only a 15 or 20 amp with adapters that may well benefit you when you travel and visit other locations. locations that may not have a 50 amp available. The big difference in COST, may help make up you mind. I have run a single roof air on 20 amps.

By now you must have read responses and realized that not all answers are in the expert category. A 50 amp RV outlet outside, not inside, your building will be to your advantage. The box is only $25 bucks but the wire and breakers for that circuit may be four times that cost. Add on the electrician and permit may be expensive too.

The other consideration is do you have blank space in your electrical distribution box. If you do have space for a dual 50 amp breaker then great. IF not then the electrician may have to start doubling up on some of your 15 amp breaker with tandem breakers to make room for the dual 50. Circuit breakers run around $15-20 each. Wire to the outlet may be about $2.50 per foot. Electrician run near $125 per hour and the permit may be about $80-120.

To keep the batteries up you need only a 12-14 gauge extension cord, a 15 to 30 and a 30 to 50 adapters. this will allow you to plug into any power available to keep you supplied with power, as an example when visit a family or friend home, or if only a 30 amp outlet is available at a camp ground

visit this site to understand the 50 amp outlet
The 50-amp 120/240-volt 3 pole 4
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:37 AM   #19
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If the 50A service is feasible, i.e. the infastructure is there, go with the 50A. You are lucky in that you have the ability to have your RV at home with you. Why not take full advantage of that? It can serve as an overflow motel room or a bail out in case the house has problems or your going through some remodeling. I've had family sleep in ours. It's nice to have an extra king size bed to offer. Last year I slept in it for a couple weeks when we had a new puppy in the house. Can't afford to lose sleep when you get up at 5:30 AM to go to work.

As mentioned above, a 50A RV outlet is 100A @ 120V or 50A @ 240V. It's just a matter of how the power is distributed in the RV. I carry a 50' 50A cord with me. I made it out of 6-4 SO cable. It has come in handy on several occasions due to parking in unconventional places, like race venues or my uncle's ranch.
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:03 AM   #20
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I keep mine plugged in and made my own extension cord. I bought the appropriate gage wire (I think no 4 solid wire) in the length I needed and purchased the plug and socket for the ends from amazon (I think) and it has been working fine for three years. Much less expensive than a pre-made cord.
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Old 01-24-2016, 09:38 AM   #21
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One other thing to keep in mind is that most outdoor 15 or 20 amp service outlets will, by code, need to be GFCI protected.

Ask on here how problematic they can be.
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Old 01-24-2016, 10:01 AM   #22
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One other thing to keep in mind is that most outdoor 15 or 20 amp service outlets will, by code, need to be GFCI protected.
Ask on here how problematic they can be.

If you have a problem with any GFCI protected receptacle something needs fixing.
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Old 01-24-2016, 12:37 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mel s View Post

If you have a problem with any GFCI protected receptacle something needs fixing.
That is not accurate. There is nothing wrong with the wiring in my MH and others that have experienced the gfi problem, but it will absolutely not work with a GFI when using adapters. There have been other treads on this discussion in the past. Some of the potentials which cause the trip are the norcold and other products.

The simple solution is to install a non gfi outlet for RV use. Mine is plugged into a Non gfi 15 amp outlet and runs down a 75 foot extension cord to a 30/50 adapter to the RV connection.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:22 PM   #24
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I just went through this exercise when deciding to install an outlet for the motor home we expect to buy soon. There are lots of considerations and since I was installing it in a workshop with no interior walls I decided to do it the right way--50 amp breaker, 6 gauge stranded wire and 50 amp RV outlet. The total cost for the breaker, wire and box was about $140.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:50 PM   #25
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I just went through this exercise when deciding to install an outlet for the motor home we expect to buy soon. There are lots of considerations and since I was installing it in a workshop with no interior walls I decided to do it the right way--50 amp breaker, 6 gauge stranded wire and 50 amp RV outlet. The total cost for the breaker, wire and box was about $140.
I did the same thing in my florida home. The breaker was already there and my cost was about two hours of work and $90 bucks at HD. But then we are DIY kind of folks. Here is Jersey we use a 15 amp non GFI for a float voltage. When we use it for an extra bedroom for guest we hook it up to the laundry dryer outlet with a home made adapter. that is the same thing we take with us when visiting friends and family. Most all have electric dryers and an ample source of power for a few overnights. good friends install a 50 amp for us to plug into. I only have three GOOD friends.
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:49 PM   #26
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That is not accurate. There is nothing wrong with the wiring in my MH and others that have experienced the gfi problem, but it will absolutely not work with a GFI when using adapters. There have been other treads on this discussion in the past. Some of the potentials which cause the trip are the norcold and other products.

The simple solution is to install a non gfi outlet for RV use. Mine is plugged into a Non gfi 15 amp outlet and runs down a 75 foot extension cord to a 30/50 adapter to the connection.
ladagobago
I was told by the electrician who found and fixed the ground fault in the Norcold in my coach that there are only 2 reasons a GFCI trips is:
1.) There's a ground fault that should be corrected.
2.) The ground fault interrupter has failed.

I guess he was mistaken.

BTW he also refused to replace the "code required" 15A GFCI shore power receptacle in my garage to a non-GFCI receptacle.

Mel
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Old 01-24-2016, 06:06 PM   #27
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I have a 30a RV connection at home. But seldom use it - instead just run out a heavy duty 20a extension cord. Simpler and lighter and gets the job done.

Only would use the 30a if needing to run AC. Only time I run AC in storage is to exercise the generator, so shore power not needed.

I carry a 30a extension. Seldom need one, but have used on occasion.

First two RV were 30a, with now the Phaeton being 50a. May someday upgrade the 30a to 50a - as would be relatively easy as when I installed I ran the larger wire so just need to change out breaker and jack.
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Old 01-25-2016, 07:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
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ladagobago
I was told by the electrician who found and fixed the ground fault in the Norcold in my coach that there are only 2 reasons a GFCI trips is:
1.) There's a ground fault that should be corrected.
2.) The ground fault interrupter has failed.

I guess he was mistaken.

BTW he also refused to replace the "code required" 15A GFCI shore power receptacle in my garage to a non-GFCI receptacle.

Mel
'96 Safari
I would agree with the electrician. He has licences to protect and can not provide professional service outside code standards. I would not either.

So now the question is - what specifically did he find that created the fault. It takes very little current bleed to cause the GFI to trip. Was it on the board, heater, or ice maker. what did he do to eliminate the fault. It might be helpful to pass this info on to the rest of us.

As an aside - running the MH on 115 x 15 amp outlet is made simpler with the Furrion FP5030R-SB 50a 125/250v Twst To 30a Rv adapter. I got mine a few years ago for only $40 but now the price is higher thanks to STAG partners control over the market place. there are still a few places that sell it for under $60. such as autoplicity.
Furrion FP5030R-SB 50a 125/250v Twst To 30a Rv | Autoplicity

this saves hauling out the big 50 amp cable and allows a simple extension cord connection with adding 30-15 reducer for power.
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