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Old 01-25-2016, 09:02 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by ladagobago View Post
I would agree with the electrician. He has licences to protect and can not provide professional service outside code standards. I would not either.
So now the question is - what specifically did he find that created the fault. It takes very little current bleed to cause the GFI to trip. Was it on the board, heater, or ice maker. what did he do to eliminate the fault. It might be helpful to pass this info on to the rest of us.
ladagobago
He didn't share that information with me, (but I got the impression that he found the ground fault somewhere in the 120V to my ice maker).
Sorry
Mel
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Old 01-26-2016, 06:00 AM   #30
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ladagobago
He didn't share that information with me, (but I got the impression that he found the ground fault somewhere in the 120V to my ice maker).
Sorry
Mel
I rather imagined that might be the answer. there was most likely nothing wrong with the norcold at all. Inductive loads cause EMI and can cause a false event. There are several items on a norcold which cause inductive loads including the water solenoid.

A single dedicated outlet could be used for the purpose. It should be marked for the dedicated use. I use them in fire alarm systems all the time. We commonly have to install the FACP in sprinkler control rooms or garages. One of our transmitters requires a wall plug outlet for the plugin transformers. By code, We can not use a GFCI outlet for any fire control devices. We install a single outlet, paint it red and mark it for fire use only.

The fact is that refrigerators should be plugged into a dedicated outlet. The NEC code states that except for dwellings, a GFIC is required for a refrigerator in certain areas. IE in a garage or wet environment like a commercial kitchen.

The GFCI requirements for refrigerators are governed primarily under NEC Article 210.8 and 210.52, and had little to no change from the 2008 version of the code to the 2011 version. Now with the new 2015 out there is even more exactness and confusion. One thing for sure is you old house or MH does not need to be upgraded as it is grandfathered.

now to the basics. Many places still have the older GFI rather than GFIC protectors. GFI is a class B protector at 20-30ma. The GFCI is a class A protector at 4-6 ma required in kitchen, baths etc. Just in case you drop your toaster into the bath tub. LOL.
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