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Old 04-04-2015, 01:21 PM   #15
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I'd say a lot depends on if you have full body paint or gelcoat. If you have a older coach with gelcoat you will need to have it compounded in the worst areas first then polished with a buffer, a spinning wheel buffer not a orbital one, and then waxed to make it look good. Remember the cheapest guy is just that, cheap. To find someone who has pride in what they do will cost you more but you will get a job that is worth the money. Where I live for a professional buff and wax on gelcoat will run you in the $500-600 range, sounds like a lot compared to other prices but set your coach next to one of the 2-300 dollar jobs and you will see you get what you pay for. Full body paint on the other hand is much easier to do and would run about half or a little more.

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Old 04-04-2015, 02:05 PM   #16
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How Much Should It Cost to Get MH Waxed?

Originally Posted by niceguy9605 View Post
We were at a large rally with our TX RVing club and a company came in and offered washing/waxing/and detailing(engine/gen/battery areas) all for $175.00. There were 40 of us at the rally and 25 signed up! Our coach looked GREAT....liked it rolled off the show room floor.

Were in Texas is this guy. I am waxing mine now.

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Old 04-05-2015, 05:52 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by yankeeflyer View Post
Got a phone number for Ocala company ?
352-286-2939 His name is Derron James, and showed up with a 4 man crew.
2000 Dutch Star Pusher
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:26 AM   #18
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8 $ a foot here in michigan
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Old 04-06-2015, 05:58 AM   #19
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I'm cheap and particular (Mother's California Gold) liquid wax only. $8.50 a bottle, old t-shirts and sweat shirts, x2 a year, hand polish only. Sorry to brag, but at my age, it's a miracle.
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Old 04-06-2015, 06:42 AM   #20
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I deeply regret hiring someone to wax my 1999 Winnebago Chieftain. They were are full time RV detail company my RV tech recommended. My RV had always been stored indoors and the the paint and decals were nearly factory fresh.

Whatever buffer this team used bent down the edges of many of the decals, making the once pristine decals look very aged. If there's a repair to reattaching these tiny edges I'm unaware of it.

If I were doing the job myself I would obviously had stopped using the powered buffer around the edges the instant I saw what it was doing. They obviously had no concern and just kept on, perhaps even oblivious to the damage.

Next time I'll hire a day laborer and supervise the work personally.
Joseph and Sandy
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(Snowbirds in Reverse)
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Old 04-07-2015, 05:38 AM   #21
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I am the one who started this thread and it sounded like the last post was written by myself. I too went to my RV Guy and he recommended a local shop who specialized in RV's. I had the same experience with frayed decals, as well as decals burnt through with over aggressive polishing. He promised to clean the inside of the storage bin covers and didn't as well as not cleaning the inside of the Max-Aire covers as promised.

He had the coach 6 days instead of the two he quoted and charged me the maximum amount noted in this thread. I chose to not confront him but to accept my lot. I don't believe he would have corrected what he had done properly and perhaps would have caused more damage. I regret the whole experience. I should have hired day laborers and supervised them myself.

Thanks everyone for your input.
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Old 04-07-2015, 10:52 AM   #22
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daydream and the previous post posted what I was going to comment on and that is the use of electric buffers. Boy if you aren't careful and know what your doing you can spin the decals or gelcoat right off the RV. I do mine once a year with New Finish with a cheap orbital polisher, which I have been using with nice success since my boating days. I do touch ups on the front grill area 4 or 5 times in addition because of the work getting the damn bugs off after a trip. I also will use for touch ups a spray furniture polish ($1 a can at the Dollar Store) on the areas low enough for me to reach with out a ladder and the wheels. Nice quick shine after a wash. However, I do like the idea of hiring a day laborer to do the work and I may look into this in another month or so getting ready for another great season. Nice suggestion!
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Old 04-07-2015, 12:58 PM   #23
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Gulf coast FL area it costs us $350 on our 32 footer, mostly gel coat, and that is with a DA buffer, not a full wheel-it-till-it shines rub out. It always looks good until you compare it with the original gel coat where a small sticker came off 2 years ago.
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Old 04-07-2015, 01:31 PM   #24
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Wash and wax

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2011 Honda CRV Toad Our rescue dog Annie.Full timing since 07-01-2011. No sticks and bricks.
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Old 04-07-2015, 06:43 PM   #25
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I have always did mine, and I am going to try it again this year. Its a lot easier than the first time I did it.
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:29 PM   #26
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Decals should always be done by hand, never with a machine.
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:34 AM   #27
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Private Detaier

I have always done it myself (10 RV). But I think I'm done with that. I will do the cab area as we leave for a weekend camping trip. Had a outfit from Chula Vista (XTREME detailing). Did a great job. Even did some of the inside ,I could have for more work but my 2007 Itasca Navion 23H. Was in good shape.

The price was $345.00 took about 4 hrs.
I keep my class C in a storage yard. Boss came with the worker and after we were happy with price. He went to work.
I think they serve all of southern CA. THEY ALSO just do a wash and dry. For about $60.00 $70.00.
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Old 04-08-2015, 03:23 PM   #28
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Had mine done by a mobile guy here north of Tampa for $9.00 per foot.
They did a great job including scrubbing the roof. 33 ft. So it was $297.00.
I will use them again

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